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Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic
BootonTheMooton

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 20, 2015 - 12:59pm PT
Hi I am considering getting a fingerboard as i cannot get down to climbing more than once a week, I was just wondering if anyone does it and could give me an idea of which ones are good and when you should start. I was looking at the beastmaker 1000 as i have been climbing for almost 2-3 years and am able to climb 4, 5 and have completed a 6a+ and 6b
PSP also PP

Trad climber
Berkeley
Apr 20, 2015 - 01:01pm PT
If you want to climb for a long time DON'T use finger boards.
BootonTheMooton

Boulder climber
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2015 - 01:40pm PT
Oh, ok could you give me a brief idea why this maybe the case and i would only use it for hangs on jugs and the like and no pullups, just to be able to hang onto more holds as I feel that my technique and route planning is good and my finger strength is what is holding me back
snyd

Sport climber
Lexington, KY
Apr 20, 2015 - 03:33pm PT
Don't listen to that guy... fingerboards are great for finger strength. I have a Metolius Simulator. It has a really aggressive texture. I'd like a nice wooden one sometime down the road.

Finding a good, effective, and safe training routine is key. I am doing repeaters right now and really like them. Two 15 minute sessions a week is easy to find time for and the benefits are measurable.

jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Apr 20, 2015 - 03:39pm PT
Why not be creative and make your own, to your individual specifications?

Be very careful about overdoing it, whichever one you use. Two sessions a week spaced by several days is a good recommendation. Don't forget pull-ups, dips and levers - thin arms and strong fingers is not attractive!


;>)
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Apr 20, 2015 - 08:37pm PT
DanaB

climber
CT
Apr 21, 2015 - 08:58am PT
Take a close look at the available fingerboards. At the end of the day they offer, at most, 2-3 holds that you will use so in effect you pay $100 (more or less) for 4-6 pieces of plastic or wood that are 1-2 inches long and 1/4-3/4 inch deep. Does that sound like a good deal? Fingerboards are a great training supplement. But despite all the hype from the manufacturers you can make you own from scrap wood and it will be just as effective.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Apr 21, 2015 - 11:07am PT
How crafty are you? Here are pics and plans for a pretty simple but elegant home made one.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2515801&msg=2515801#msg2515801
Messages 1 - 8 of total 8 in this topic
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