Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 30, 2015 - 12:23pm PT
|
Vanity Fair article on the Dawn Wall:
http://www.vanityfair.com/culture/2015/03/free-climb-yosemite-dawn-wall-tommy-caldwell-kevin-jorgeson
"...Yosemite's Perilous Dawn Wall..."
"...one of the most dangerous climbs in history..."
I'll give the writer benefit of doubt, maybe it was just some intern who's in charge of writing blurbs.
But anyway:
Looks like KJ now wears TC Pros even for photo shoots--must be an official sponsor thing with paperwork and everything? What I really want to know, seriously, is this: are TC Pros really better than Miuras for 5.14 edging? I assumed people liked 'em because they were more comfy and prevented bloody ankles.
|
|
looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2015 - 12:27pm PT
|
Is that a "real" pic (for lack of a better word), or are they posing in front of a green screen? The lighting between the foreground and the background looks a bit...off to me.
|
|
phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2015 - 12:31pm PT
|
Jorgeson's facebook link to the pic makes it sound like it's real--I think the photog just used too much artificial lighting, or the wrong tone of lighting, or something, for the foreground. Agreed, it looks completely fake.
edit: Jorgeson also mentions that the pic is a 2-page spread--I guess that would work better, because the crease would break up the two clashing layers?
|
|
PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2015 - 12:31pm PT
|
Curious of the location of the photo, anyone?
|
|
Matt's
climber
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2015 - 12:44pm PT
|
i never understood this-- his website shows he is sponsored by five ten, but in this iteration of the dawn wall attempts he switched to tc pros.
If I were his sponsor I would be pretty pissed, that is a damning statement about the quality of their offerings...
phile-- the tc pros are stiffer than the miuras-- for this sort of climbing that can be useful...
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2015 - 12:47pm PT
|
Paul
Most likely it's up on Trutleback dome.
It's the famous "poseur boulder" up there.
|
|
phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2015 - 01:39pm PT
|
@ Matt's--gotta be an official change of some kind--it's not like you need that extra little bit of performance to go pose for a pic.
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2015 - 03:24pm PT
|
Looks like a single photo..used a flash and a high F-Stop. Something a lot of folks should do more of in their photography. Undoubtedly some computer work too.
In this case they made it look more artey than photoey.. which is fine if that is the effect you want.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2015 - 04:10pm PT
|
"...Yosemite's Perilous Dawn Wall..."
"...one of the most dangerous climbs in history..." Those quotes are from the article title and photo caption.
The text of the (short) article itself seems entirely accurate.
Possibly the above quotes were modified by editors to juice things up a bit.
|
|
two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
|
|
|
Mar 30, 2015 - 05:34pm PT
|
T.C. Pros are only better if you have custom made shoes with your own personal last, and XSV Vibram. But, most climbers don't have enough finesse, patience and skill to climb in this very hard, sticky , and insensitive rubber.
XSV Vibram was sold for perhaps 10 years. Hardly anybody liked it or had the persistence to learn its ways. It takes absolute precision.
|
|
Brian
climber
California
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2015 - 05:20pm PT
|
Saw the latest climbing rag at the shop. Kevin is on the front cover climbing one of the traverse pitches (15?) in TC Pros ... and on the back cover in an add for Adidas Outdoors / 5.10. Either he's made the switch, or now that 5.10 has been swallowed into Adidas they are allowing some athletes to stay on board with Adidas clothing but opt out of 5.10 shoes.
Curious, though irrelevant to me. TC Pros are comfy all-arounders for me, but I can't get a good fit in Miuras for the life of me. Anasazi Blancos or Anasazi Pinks (depending on the route) are my go-to crux-micro edging shoes. Odd that my feet fit some shoes from each brand, but are tortured by other shoes from the same company.
|
|
two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2015 - 06:24pm PT
|
Brian,
It probably wouldn't be profitable for any one company (5.10, La Sportiva, Scarpa, etc.), to base all
of their shoes all on just one shape of last.
They need to try to fit as many different shaped feet as possible, wide and narrow, big toe
accentuated, or 2nd toe (so called morton's toe) prominent shoes. This will help achieve
the greatest profitability for a climbing shoe company.
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2015 - 07:40pm PT
|
TC Pros are the superior shoe to anything else out there. TC Pros are Miura's on steroids. They took the Miura's and tricked them out and made them comfortable and more rigidity to the planform. Stem and edge like a mofo.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2015 - 07:47pm PT
|
The TC Pro is like a ford pickup.....durable and reliable but not a precision instrument.
|
|
two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2015 - 07:52pm PT
|
Jim,
Well, how did Tommy and Kevin climb 5.14d in a old Ford pickup? I guess if you're a good climber you can climb in muck-luks, right!
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2015 - 07:58pm PT
|
They sure seem precise to me. I admit they are not as precise once you round out the edge on them from use like any shoe, but even then they still edge on a dime. Compared to putting your shoes on and off every 15 minutes with sport climbing shoes, to me there is no comparison.
|
|
yosemite 5.9
climber
santa cruz
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2015 - 07:59pm PT
|
I drilled two holes in the TC pros toe box to tighten it up with the laces for more precision, put 5.10 rubber soles on it for grip, and put a few holes in the rand to bite a bit more in the cracks.
Now they are perfect.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
|
|
Mar 31, 2015 - 09:22pm PT
|
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson completed one of the most dangerous climbs in history with anchors and ropes as their only security system.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 18 of total 18 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!