A new injury--Arrrgh.

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Bad Climber

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 22, 2015 - 01:32pm PT
Okay, just want a group hug and someone to say I'll be fine in no time--or that I'll die.

A week ago I was pulling for glory on a 10+ arete problem (The Shark's Fin @ the 'Bama Hills, CA), which required major right side grunting--grabbing the arete, big high steps, body contractions. Befuddled at the crux, I hung for a moment, saw my way through, and hoisted like the Hulk after his fav pic for Dancing with the Stars gets eliminated. Yeah! But later, the next day, the pain settles in. It's located in my right side--a first for me--and is pretty much front to back, in the front right at the bottom of the rib cage where it starts to hook back. The pain can be sharp with the wrong movement, so I ain't climbing right now. Tried some yoga yesterday--stupid, made it worse.

Anyway, has anyone pulled/torn muscles in this area? Experiences? Recovery times? It hurts a bit to lay on that side in bed. For now, I think I can stick to hanging exercises with straight arms since I don't feel much in the affected area when I do. Is that a bad idea?

Locker, Locker, LOCKER! Am I gonna die?

Thanks, love, hugs, and kisses...

BAd
David Knopp

Trad climber
CA
Mar 22, 2015 - 02:13pm PT
it sounds like oblique pull or tears. It affects baseball players a lot, and takes a while to really heal. be careful, don't come back off it too fast or you risk injuring it again, easily.
rincon

climber
Coarsegold
Mar 22, 2015 - 02:19pm PT
Just rest. You're gonna live.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Mar 22, 2015 - 02:21pm PT
Ouch BAd!
I hope that Im wrong but It sounds Like you may have a dislocated, slightly Pulled out of space where it should sit, by muscle strain,RIB (or Floating rib soft tissue damage) this is not good if you are a Normal over 40 Yr old.
The Pt on this Is rest and no lifting, Light stretching . Do you Know the lie on your side roll up the leg that is up, and have some one aply light,( cause it will/ might hurt) pressure ?
This strech is then done with the lower leg rolled up and the top leg extended embrace the strech but if the pain is sharp stop.
I am no Doc, an osteopath. . . see osteopathy
http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/70381.php
Is a good place to start, the photo I saw in the briefest of scans shows the stretch I desribed done lying on the back Legs raised in the air and then 'rocked' back and forth.
http://cbphysicaltherapy.com/pain-101-mid-back-rib-pain/

Good luck and sit tight till full range of motion returns.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Mar 22, 2015 - 02:21pm PT
Bummer bad. Rest up and take it easy for awhile. Frickin' sport climbing... :)
Bad Climber

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2015 - 02:53pm PT
Thanks for the info/support, guys. I'll check out those links!

Yeah, rest. Fortunately, I like biking and hiking, too.

Then there's that nasty stack o' nasty papers I gotta read...

BAds
ablegabel

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 22, 2015 - 07:37pm PT
Sounds like you separated a rib for lack of a better way of putting it. I've done this a couple times over the last 20 years. Hurts a lot worse than a broken rib and takes a little longer to heal. It always happened when I was over extended and pulling to hard. Does that sound about right? If so, don't worry, it will heal in a couple months. I've done light climbing after about a month (on your feet stuff). Good luck.

 Eric Gabel
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Mar 22, 2015 - 07:52pm PT
hey there say, bad climber...

wow, i'd say, (lot's of help, huh?) that it could be either...
the muscle or the rib...

i DO know that you CAN do this, as gnome and the other poster, mentioned...
and it hurts differently than muscle, it is hard to explain, but only
YOU will know better, which it is ...

read up on BOTH subjects...

i had the rib thing happen, but it was not the side, it was in front, :O


the way you mention the isolated pain moments, when you lay down, though, sound suspiciously like more than a muscle...
but--

i am just throwing more 'cards on the ol' table here'...

read up, a bit though, you will see how your BODY matches up the pain areas, etc... in what you learn... and of course, if you NEED to,
go to a doc... but many of these things, you have to just rest and wait them out... (though, if something is pressing onto another organ??? somewhere, THIS could be dangerous... only YOU will know this...)...


say, get well soon as you are able... :)

here's a bit of good cheer for you...




jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Mar 22, 2015 - 07:58pm PT
Last fall I had a few days of bad coughing and sneezing and when I tried to do some pull-ups after the spell passed I found I had tremendous pain roughly in the area you describe. I couldn't do much of anything for about three weeks, then one morning I awoke and was fine.

For what it's worth.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Mar 22, 2015 - 09:02pm PT
Whatever it tuns out to be...injuries just really suck. Especially initially when you are not sure what it is or how long you need to rest it, or if you should use ice, or heat, or see a doc, or not. Just sucks. Sending a big virtual hug for you, I hope you figure it out soon.

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Mar 22, 2015 - 11:10pm PT
R.I.C.E.
Bad Climber

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2015 - 06:00am PT
Thanks, everyone. It helps to hear from all of you.

Eric: I think you nailed it. I was reaching like crazy for a good hold.

Hey, John: Good to hear about your recovery. I know you've had your share of interesting injuries.

Overall, I am bummed because, well, being injured sucks, and I was really starting to make some progress! Grrrr...

So, Eric: Did you pretty much lay off everything related to climbing exercise? I HAVE to hike and bike ride or go crazy, so I think those will keep me going, but do you have any idea of the kinds of things I can do to maintain a semblance of fitness? I've gotta beat Sharma at the next comp!

Big thanks again to everyone! You're great.

BAd
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
Mar 23, 2015 - 06:26am PT
Sounds like a sprain injury of the costochondral junction, the interface between the ribs and the cartilage that ends up attaching the ribs to the sternum. It is an inherently weak link and is prone to injury when movement requires intense contraction of the trunk in a lateral or rotary fashion.

Here is a pic that illustrates the costochondral junction.


This injury is not serious, but it is frustrating, in that it takes time to heal. There is no specific rehab for the injury itself.

Make sure your trunk/core is strong to prevent getting this injury in the future. Planks and side planks are useful; sit ups and crunches are not. The best exercise for getting solid in the trunk and preventing this injury in the future is to use the turkish get up because the movement requires solid rotary and lateral stability of the trunk.

Here is a video showing how to do a turkish get up.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Let it heal before doing the rehab to prevent it from happening in the future. Heal fast and heal well!!
Bad Climber

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2015 - 12:25pm PT
Follow up--with a dose of frustration:

I recovered fairly quickly, doing pull downs with way less than body weight but going high reps until I would get a burn going. I did "bicycling" style abdominals so I didn't have to bend my core, and I could do hangs and roll ups to keep my fingers/forearms in shape--not bad.

As of last weekend, I was climbing easy/mid 10s again.

Alas, yesterday in a workout, I was going for a strenuous set of pull-ups, and doink! Pulled the area again. It's not as bad as last time, but it is a set back. I think the bent-over dumbbell rows were partially to blame, and I was going too big on the pull-ups for sure. Arrgh. So, I take another step back. My one day a week on the rock--tomorrow--is off, but I've got a big trip in two weeks to Shuteye. So I've got to recover!

On the good side, I've never climbed at Shuteye, and there seem to be a TON of very high quality moderates, so we should have a blast even if I'm not shredding 10's.

Thanks for the support and info, TACO people. This place keeps me stoked.

Carry on!

BAd
Bad Climber

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2015 - 12:26pm PT
@ Mark:

Thanks for the vid. Gotta get me some kettles.

BAd
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
May 2, 2015 - 05:38pm PT
Bad- just lay off entirely for the next couple weeks bro! Go do all the sweet friction routes on big sleep, and some of the really cool mellow stuff at dreamscape. Lots of feet on those chickenheads. Chickenheads, chickenheads, chickenheads should be your motto.

Back off and let yourself heal bro!
Ward Trotter

Trad climber
May 2, 2015 - 06:43pm PT
What Mark Force said. Sounds like a definite hyper-extension of the hip flexor group .
Some of these exercises will keep that area stronger, especially side plank raises, and twisting land mines , and the other side to front to back twists.
Not long ago I did most of these movements and the next day my obliques,abs, and even lower back were so sore it really hurt to laugh.

It might help when you sleep on your side to put a pillow between your knees until it heals.
Good luck.

http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/abs-under-siege-noah-siegel-hardcore-workout.html
Tan Slacks

climber
Joshua Tree
May 2, 2015 - 07:47pm PT
Hey Bad Climber,

Remember me?

OK, so here is the skinny that I know of. I was "separating" ribs on a pretty regular basis. I thought it was my weight, my poor form or bad luck. After several years of some on and off serious pain and recovery times I saw a doctor. Labs, tests, and more, we found the root of my problem. It required a full body bone scan, those heel tests missed it.

I had pretty advanced osteoporosis. The reasons are complicated and it seems through proper diet and a brief period of a serious prescription drug, I may have turned this around. The other day I repeated a climb with the same lunge side pull that had ripped my ribs, this time, all good!

It's not something that I would have assumed would happen to me, but I would caution everyone reading this that it can happen to men too. Osteoporosis sucks
Bad Climber

climber
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2015 - 08:08am PT
Thanks, guys. Pretty sore this last week. I'm off the workout and climbing game for a few weeks at least. My ribs are making that quite clear, thank you very much. I made the mistake of watching a hilarious episode of Luis, and I was laughing and yelping simultaneously. Weird. I told my students about my injury, then they make me laugh/yelp, which makes all of us laugh more, me yelp. What a sick/funny situation. Right now coughing, sneezing, certain bending motions are not fun.

I'm off to see a chiro who specializes in a treatment called "Graston," which seems to really offer some benefits. He's an athlete, too, which should help. I'm bummed to be losing fitness, and big plans with my best climbing buddy for Aug. may have to be shelved. We'll see how this goes.

Hey, Tan: I think my injury is about going to big. I've got a killer diet and all, but I'll keep your experience in mind. It's good to hear you're doing better! My next big adventure is a 500 mile tour in N. Cal. and southern Oregon. I think my rib shouldn't cause too much trouble there.

Sigh....

BAd
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