Self Rescue

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NASH

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 22, 2015 - 01:32pm PT
Does anyone know of a reputable source for a Self Rescue course in Southern California? Any information is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Mar 22, 2015 - 01:37pm PT
No idea on courses.

Suggest reading what you can. Then finding a place to hang a rope and fiddle around with escaping from the system and knot bypasses under load. hauling sytems may be useful.. Have fun playing with gear. Try various absurd ideas and and minimalist approaches.. and of course also practice doing it by the book... it's fun practice and the main thing is to get to the point that the principles are second nature so you can improvise easily on the fly.

Worst case scenario is that you are basically soloing with a big pig that requires first aid. Fortunately you only have to go down..well maybe after getting sh#t to and setup at an anchor.
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Mar 22, 2015 - 01:40pm PT
I've been wanting to do Bob's rescue courses forever, maybe soon. :)

https://www.vertical-adventures.com/courses/
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Mar 22, 2015 - 01:41pm PT
way back when, I hired a guide for a day (SP Parker at Sierra Mountain center?). I got 3 friends together and we payed for a day of training. Call any of the reputable guide services around and see if they'll do the same.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Mar 22, 2015 - 01:41pm PT
Gaines does rescue courses? Yeah jump on that then!
NASH

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2015 - 01:52pm PT
Awesome! Thanks everyone for the suggestions
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Mar 22, 2015 - 03:37pm PT
Not in So Cal -
Alpine Skills International in Truckee have a very good course.

I've taken their AIARE avalanche course and found it thorough.
http://alpineskills.com/rc_selfrescue.html
ruppell

climber
Mar 22, 2015 - 03:50pm PT
Get a few self-rescue books and figure out the principles and systems. Rig stuff in your garage or from a tree and dial it in. Then find a few buddies and a guide to actually use them. You'll get way more out of the day if you already understand what you'll be practicing. And if you can get Bob Gaines get him.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Mar 22, 2015 - 03:59pm PT
Try with shoe laces too:
[Click to View YouTube Video]

Also practice using pitons as a lethal throwing dagger. It just might save you.
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
Mar 22, 2015 - 05:56pm PT
Ditto for Bob Gaines/Vertical Adventures.

I've taken many classes from him and his outfit is top notch.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Mar 22, 2015 - 07:15pm PT
That James Bond movie messed up my prussiking skills for years. For some reason my mind locked onto the false datum that prusiks should be the size of shoelaces. LOL


WBraun

climber
Mar 22, 2015 - 07:19pm PT
What is a scenario where a self rescue is required?
WBraun

climber
Mar 22, 2015 - 07:25pm PT
Bob Gaines will surely teach you how to rescue yourself from that ^^^^^^
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Mar 22, 2015 - 07:30pm PT
'Gaines'
WBraun

climber
Mar 22, 2015 - 07:31pm PT
Thanks apogee ...
Rudder

Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Mar 22, 2015 - 07:38pm PT
Werner, what should every climber know that most don't? Maybe a top five list if you please. :)
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Mar 22, 2015 - 07:42pm PT
I've got a canyoneer friend who raps waterfalls all the time and doesn't carry prussik loops and had never practiced with them.

I was thinking about getting him and some other people I care about together here in SoCal for a self rescue practice workshop.

1. Prussik out of a waterfall.

2. C-pulley & Z-pulley setup, as in crevasse rescue but also to be used in self rescue as in lifting self on lead or top rope. Also lifting fallen or stuck leader.

3. Fallen climber tie-off - a-la-SCMA safety test.

4. Knots drilling. Like the time I self rescued by extending my lead rope by splicing cordelettes on to the end with double fisherman's
knots. I think Levy knows some way amazing knots that are good for other cool stuff.


One good skill for self rescue is the ability to abandon gear no matter how much it costs in the store.
Flip Flop

climber
salad bowl, california
Mar 22, 2015 - 09:13pm PT
Wow Spider, your friend is a wildcard. Self-rescue ascending is a top priority in canyons.
covelocos

Trad climber
Mar 22, 2015 - 09:28pm PT
Self rescue ~ refers to actions and techniques, taken by either an individual climber or teams, to retreat or advance from situations which would leave them, otherwise unprepared, stranded (and, possibly, dead).
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Mar 22, 2015 - 09:35pm PT
PM Rokjox.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 42 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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