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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 18, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
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Have a trip to Phoenix coming up and will have time for a climb or two, with a relative novice as partner.
Would appreciate some suggestions from locals of quality routes in the 5.7 to 5.9 range, within an hour's drive of downtown.
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atchafalaya
Boulder climber
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Mar 18, 2015 - 04:53pm PT
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The Hand 5.7, out near the supes...
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Dickbob
climber
Westminster Colorado
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Mar 18, 2015 - 05:05pm PT
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I agree, The Supes. Kind of old school but whatever.
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Mar 18, 2015 - 05:09pm PT
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go to pinnacle peak.
Mickey Mantle
Wedge- hiliter
birthday party
south crack
chug a lug
chutes and ladders
etc.
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Mar 18, 2015 - 05:10pm PT
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dick bob, not an hour.
...at camelback do the monk
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 18, 2015 - 06:03pm PT
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Rick- Contact steelmonkey cuz he wrote the guidebook and knows what is GUD.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mar 18, 2015 - 06:54pm PT
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Hey Rick,
Let me know what kind of stuff you're interested in.
Multi Pitch, single, sport, trad.
When are you coming?
I can't climb at the moment (shoulder) but can hike and take photos.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 18, 2015 - 07:04pm PT
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The Monkey's the man! You're in good paws with him!
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2015 - 06:52am PT
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Thanks all! I will follow up with SteelMonkey.
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little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
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Mar 19, 2015 - 06:56am PT
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All the good ones I used to climb are on private property and now off limits. Better to just take up golf.
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overwatch
climber
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Mar 19, 2015 - 07:35am PT
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I like the McDowells now called the McDowell Sonoran preserve in Scottsdale
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 19, 2015 - 07:44am PT
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I remember walking up to Toms thumb once, and at the end of the dirt road there was a homeless cowboy ( cowboy boots, hat, western style shirt...) cooking eggs over a tumbleweed/brush campfire, in an enormous Wok. Probably a McMansion there now....
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mar 19, 2015 - 09:28am PT
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The guy that owned that land used to run goats on it (some sort of tax break thing, I think). I remember talking to a friend once, who used to do a lot of hoofing around in obscure places in the McDowells who said he ran across a cave somewhere that was just littered in goat bones and skulls. Apparently one of the local cougars had been chowing on the goats.
Also was up there one time with a friend and there was a fairly aggro bull hanging around the parking lot for Morrell's Wall. I told my buddy (who was sort of messing with the bull) if that thing turned him into his b*tch, he was on his own.
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Mar 19, 2015 - 09:33am PT
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If you are going to Camelback, skip the Monk. It's not much more than a climber tourist attraction.
An hour drive will get you to a lot of stuff worth doing.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 19, 2015 - 10:20am PT
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If anyone knows it's Manny.....drive an hour.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mar 19, 2015 - 10:24am PT
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Dang... smacked down by the blue Camalot.
Think we have a working plan in place.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 19, 2015 - 11:26am PT
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Hi Manny, from the perspective of my one and only time climbing in Phoenix, I found Camelback to be quite enjoyable (and I remembered I actually wrote up something about it):
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/992456/TR-fun-afternoon-at-Camelback-Mtn-Phoenix-2009-10
Definitely not an isolated nature experience, with the approach via suburban neighborhoods, but still quite an enjoyable spot if you don't have time to get out anywhere more rugged. That said, whatever route we did on the Monk was pretty darn easy. More of a route for historic value or for the views than for the actual climbing.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mar 23, 2015 - 05:05pm PT
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A little follow-up on Rick's visit and the climb.
They decided Razor's Edge on the Hand was just the ticket, so we headed out there yesterday morning. Gorgeous sunny spring day out in the Supes. I was just along for sarcastic commentary and to take pictures (shoulder is healing). They confirmed The Hand hasn't lost any of it's appeal as a moderate classic.
Here's the formation with the route shown. Not hard to see the appeal of a three pitch route up the arete on a fin of rock. Razor's Edge is rated 5.6, but probably feels a little harder for most folks. The route was put up by Colorado hardman Bill Forrest in 1965.
Rick starts up the route on Ryan's two floss cords.
Edge-on shot of the formation with Rick perched at the first belay.
Rick's son David finishing up the first pitch.
Rick firing off up the second pitch.
Rick at the second belay on Chicken Ledge. David starting the pitch and Ryan at the belay.
I tried to tell them those skinny shoestrings get all tangled up.
David on pitch two.
Ryan on pitch two.
Rick headed for the summit.
Another of Rick on pitch three.
Rick and David having a summit celebration moment.
Ryan on rappel.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 23, 2015 - 07:36pm PT
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Sweet followup Greg!
Looks like everyone had a GUD time.
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Mar 23, 2015 - 07:42pm PT
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Sweet! This is sure one nice thing about Supertopo.....I went to the east coast a few years back looking for a climbing partner. Low and behold I hooked up with the legend known as Chiloe ! He proceeded to sandbag the flow out of my nervous system ! I hope to use this service again as my wanderlust seems insatiable. If your in the Flagstaff area feel free to hit me up. Tim
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