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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 10, 2015 - 12:37pm PT
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I recently renewed my subscription to Alpinist and my first issue (49) landed in the mailbox yesterday. In addition to a couple other interesting pieces, is a truly wonderful article by Rick Accomazzo which examines his late friend, the now mythical, Tobin Sorenson.
The article uses the lens of Tobin's astounding season in the Alps to examine Tobin's life, motivations and climbing achievements. Rick did considerable research to bring to light the details about those climbs (some of which have never been published or even widely known) -- including Rick's first person account of his and Tobin's first ascent Dru Couloir Direct.
Simply a wonderful read and the epitome of riveting, thought-provoking biography and climbing narrative.
Congratulations Rick on a superbly well done tribute.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Feb 10, 2015 - 04:06pm PT
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Must read.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Feb 10, 2015 - 05:19pm PT
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Sometimes I start thinking that I should cancel my subscription once I get to number 50, (I have every one including 0) and then an article like this comes along and I'm locked in for a few more years...
Fantastic insight into Tobin.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Feb 10, 2015 - 05:28pm PT
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Wow, first the Doug Robinson article about the Palisades in No. 48 and now this. Can't wait to check the mailbox when I get home.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Feb 10, 2015 - 06:42pm PT
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I'll be buying one or three issues!!!!!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Feb 10, 2015 - 06:55pm PT
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okay, gonna resubscribe. I find Tobin stories fascinating.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Feb 10, 2015 - 07:29pm PT
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Thanks for the kind words, Randy and John; they are much appreciated.
It was a story that I had wanted to tell for a long time and I am glad to finally get it done. I had a lot of fun writing it, and it was a good excuse to reconnect with Tim and Lee Sorenson, and to chat and correspond with a bunch of people connected to Tobin, including two of Tobin's climbing partners from 1977, Gordon Smith and Todd Eastman.
I had the help of not just one, but two editors at Alpinist. Katie Ives and Matt Samet both offered perceptive comments and criticisms, which resulted in the final version being immeasurably better than it would have been.
Thanks also to Dave (Brassnuts) for his photography expertise in administering first aid to some of the old slides.
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, California
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Feb 10, 2015 - 08:57pm PT
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So excited Rick, and can't wait to read it, will want to order multiple copies for the clan, Dad, Tom, Tara, and other family members.
Tara's son, my nephew, is a carpenter named David Tobin (Tobin is his middle name). Also her daughter, my niece, named her first born son after my bro last year, (our new great nephew) Lee's new great grand son, Tobin.
Tobin's legacy is strong in our family and we only wish we had him longer, as do all his friends and those who knew him. Thanks for keeping his memory alive and sharing it.
-Tim
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Feb 10, 2015 - 11:52pm PT
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There is so much still to learn from the long past escapades of visionaries like Tobin, Rick and the other Stone Masters.
They proved that seizing the day does work and the effects of which might last at least a lifetime (and probably many). For Tobin (and the Stonemasters) boredom was not possible.......and what was possible, was limitless.
Can't wait to read this and thanks for making it possible Rick.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Feb 11, 2015 - 12:14am PT
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Climbing visionaries, like Tobin, inspire us to do more in our own lives!
ps - one of my favorite photos of Tobin was of him leading Insomina at Suicide chimneying out into the handcrack with his wallet still in his climbing pants!
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Feb 11, 2015 - 05:15pm PT
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That has to be one of the most stylin' climbing photos ever. Isn't that a butt bag in his back pocket?
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, California
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Feb 16, 2015 - 07:05pm PT
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On Rick's article about Tobin's big Alps season, 1977, in Alpinist 49.
I was emailing back and forth with Brunosafari this past week in anticipation of the new issue of Alpinist and also reminiscing with and reconnecting with Bruce after all these years since Tobin left us. Bruce was such a good friend to Tobin and was so close and pivotal in supporting our family during that difficult time. After reading Rick Accamazzo's article last Saturday, I emailed Bruce with my impressions and thoughts and decided to post those similar comments here:
While reading Rick's article on Tobin's big season in Alpinist 49, I could not put it down as I poured over it for a good two hours, taking in all Tobin's fantastic experiences again and again in my mind, all of the exhilarating mountain faces, reliving my memories of all of his intensity and passion, and of course the painful tragedy of his death. It was such a celebration though, Ricky's touching and informative tribute to a great climbing partner and friend, honoring Tobin's life and achievements. Rick was very thorough in his research and included many facts in the nine or ten page article. With the limitations of a magazine article, I'm sure he had to edit out many stories and some details, but he kept in the most important part, in his words, the essence of Tobin and what was in my opinion probably the truest impression of Tobin's motivation and will to climb as he did. I will always be grateful to Rick, and to such writers and friends of Tobin's who have worked to honor him in their way.
On behalf of myself and the Sorenson Family,
Thank you Rick,
Job well done,
-Tim Sorenson
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Feb 16, 2015 - 07:14pm PT
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Rick, a fabulous article! Loved reading it, and connecting some of the dots that Jack had shared with me over the years.
Tim, I'm so glad you have that! What a gift after all this time, to know that your brother's legacy has lived on, and touched so many. I carry the picture you sent me/Rick of Jack that Tobin had..........the strange circle of life that connects us all together.
Best,
pam
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Feb 16, 2015 - 08:12pm PT
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Great article! Great thread...!
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Feb 16, 2015 - 08:29pm PT
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Great article with some excellent (frightening!) photos, a lot of history, and incisive analysis, both of the man and of the era.
Tobin actually comes off sounding a bit like Layton Kor, That same drive to go upward, the uncanny strength and skill just when things are most dire (was this an intuitive ability to assess what's coming up or maybe sheer luck?), the same big grin and politeness.
I'm from UK, lost a number of UK friends in the Alps about the same time, in part because they had a similar attitude. Still unsure what too make of all those deaths, that attitude. I had the same cocky attitude, back then. I had some nasty initial experiences on ice due to stupidity and carelessness and swore off it. some of my friends, better climbers all, better people, are long gone. This article helps a bit, explains things a bit more clearly. Some of the same things were going on on both side of the pond at the same time.
Tobin? One can wonder what might been have been had he survived...We can't know, but now we can better understand his brief life.
Thanks Rick.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Feb 17, 2015 - 11:29am PT
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Finally got around to buying this issue and reading Rick's great article. You've got a talent for writing, Rick. Pretty good subject matter, too. Sheesh, that boy was incredible.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 17, 2015 - 06:48pm PT
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I'd say Rick's pretty incredible too. . .
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Feb 21, 2015 - 10:25pm PT
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Ricky, thanks for dredging up the vast memories of the great summer of 77.'
You so effectively captured Tobin's creative essence, which reminded me of the lessons we all learned from folks like him. As you described, Tobin taught us the power of seizing the moment, goal setting and surmounting fear (all in the context of the BOLD lead). You happen to also be a very good writer as well.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Feb 25, 2015 - 08:22am PT
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Thanks again to all for your comments on the article.
A nice touch was that the editors is that two articles about Hermann Buhl immediately follow mine. The first is a touching piece by one by Buhl’s daughters, recounting the effect on her life of losing her father at five years old.
The second is a brief summary of Buhl’s climbing career, very nicely done by Matt Samet. This is an artful juxtaposition by the editors. Early in the article, I mention the influence that library books about the alps had in inspiring our group in the early seventies; it is really what drew us to want to climb there. Buhl's The Lonely Challenge was a favorite and I used a couple of quotes from that book.
So for those who have not read the Lonely Challenge and are not that familiar with Buhl (only person to have made two first ascents of eight thousand meter peaks and the only person to have soloed a first ascent), the two articles are a great summary of the man and his climbs.
Steve-I never knew Kor, so it is interesting to hear you describe him as smiling and polite. From some accounts, he sometimes seems intimidating and somewhat humorless. But there are similarities that also had struck me with respect to the Eiger: both Kor and Sorenson used their Yosemite aid climbing experience to good effect on the Eiger. It seems from my readings that Kor’s aid climbing expertise was one of the keys to unlocking the Harlin route. Similarly, it was Tobin’s aid climbing ability--including a seven-hour aid and mixed lead on the first rock band-- that was the critical lead of Tobin and MacIntyre’s alpine style repeat.
And as you point out, both had an overwhelming inner drive to achieve climbing goals that is very rare, indeed.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Mar 27, 2015 - 07:37am PT
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Got my copy the other day from my renewed subscription. Thanks Rick for the read; a fine piece of writing.
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