Hankster Appreciation Thread


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this just in

Justin Ross from North Fork
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 3, 2015 - 08:03am PT
I kinda think he asked to be deleted, or if they banned him for some odd reason, I don't think he really cares. He was over this site anyways. The same grown men arguing over nonsense daily does get old.
Hank is/was one of the gems here. Unique, funny, and a person most people would like to meet and hang with.
Thanks for being the hankster, Hank.
this just in

Justin Ross from North Fork
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2015 - 08:05am PT
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
Feb 3, 2015 - 08:08am PT
Yep. Ive missed his posts a lot, since he quit a couple of years ago.

this just in

Justin Ross from North Fork
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2015 - 08:11am PT
Big Mike

Trad climber
Feb 3, 2015 - 08:14am PT
Southern Belle attempted 2nd ascent 1994

as told by Hank Caylor, 3/2009
from supertopo.com
South Face of Half Dome. 94'. Alan Lester and I are in the prime of life. I've said it before and I'll say it again, Scott Cosgrove said that this was the most sate of the art thing he'd ever done. If he did it, that means that if want to be "state of the art", I gotta do it. 12DX no problem.

So Alan and I get this plan together to repeat the Southern Belle. Not try, repeat. We drive all the way from Boulder with one thing in mind, 2nd ascent, PERIOD! All this under the gaze of Valley big shots like Croft and Cosgrove and God whoelse?

And yeah, I had visions of sugarplums dancing in my head. I just did the BY, Midnight Lightning, Astroman blah blah. In Yosemite, those folks don't care about who you think you are and what you just climbed. Kinda hard from a Texas/Colorado hybrid like me to understand.

We drove in one straight shot to Yosemite(get a globe, it's a long way). Marched straight up to the Southern Belle, camped, drank nothing and tried to fire. CRAP!

We had a deal, I do all the freaky runout face pitches and Alan gets the cracks, that's his thing. Alan floats the 1st 5.9 pitch, cruises the shorty 5.12 2nd pitch and then HIKED the12C 3rd pitch with 2 #2cams. He just left one halfway up and milked the second for 60feet. I just pooed myself.

The 4th pitch is the "crux", 12DX, I work the 5 bolts and do what we considered an, A0? followed by a 100foot 12a runout. The scariest climbing moment of my life(in the 90's), almost so far. I tried to put in nests of RPs and just left them hanging cuz' they were crap! Who's foolin' who? I nail the runout and Alan does the 5th pitch in excellent style, 12A.

Alan blows through the 6th pitch, that's right, 1 bolt in a 150' 5.10.

This is where we get to the porn....but not on Half Dome with Alan....ahem.

So Alan nails the 6th pitch and it's all me from here on up, his crack duties(funny) are through at this point. 2 mindless unprotected 5.11 pitches with almost no bolts go by, AND!

Here's where I screwed up. The topo only sez' where the one bolt is and 1 bolt is hard to see. I missed, not hard to do on Half Dome.

If you've ever had to climb 40' to get to within' seeing distance of the bolt. When I say the bolt, I mean the only bolt.

I just could not find the bolt. There was a garbage drawing Coz gave over but dangit. 14 bolts on the back half of Half Dome does not register in the heat of battle.

So yeah I fell(you wanted to hear it and there it is). Crap I thought, where is the bolt. I already climbed 40 feet longer than Coz's(I love him) crappy topo said.

And there the bolt was, 30' to the right of where I was climbing. I had already done way too many moves to downclimb.

Once again, I've said before, this is where I thought you separate the "men from the boys". The Cali boys from the Boulder boys! If you've ever been that far off route, yet so close.What a mind f*#k. A BASE rig wouldn't help you. Largo couldn't help you.

(Any partner affiliation that has to do with death routes is well discussed before hand between the partners. Alan and I did not even broach this subject. We were studs from Boulder and arrived in Yosemite to steal the 2nd ascent of the Southern Belle.) [This in response to a question.]

The 3rd worst moment of my climbing life was on the Belle. I had climbed to far to the left to ever get to the 1 bolt. 40' of 5.11 that I just could not downclimb. I yelled my ass off to Alan, get me the bolt kit!

Seriously people, I was wearing a baseball cap. I leaned in a little to far and the brim of the ballcap clicked on the rock and chucked me off. Alan needed 150' feet of rope, we didn't, have to send up a bolt kit. I started sketching as much as you can halfway up Half Dome. Mentally, I had a meltdown. Seriously, Alan was 100' below me separated by a #2 TCU and a tiny Lowe Ball Nut. If those two pieces blow, ugly factor 2 straight onto Alan.

This brings up a situation I've always fancied. Do you wanna take a 200' fall and blow out your legs, or do you wanna hold a 200 foot fall as the belayer? Behind every earthquaking leader is a bold unheralded person holding the other end of the line. The belayer of freaks should be recognized!

So 1 pitched, I knew I was going to pitch. The mental process of pitching the kind of pitch that Doug Robinson would write about and make Coz cringe is a many splendered thing. Getting so far up all the rad sh#t on Half Dome, and then tossing so far was unthinkable.

Anyhoo, I went 40' into a dike (the kind that runs all over the S. Face of the Dome). I knew I broke my ankles very quickly. Actually, I knew they were toast way before. I then skidded like a dog dragged by a truck for another 40'.

My two pieces of gear held. I asked Dean and he never saw them on his ascent. This was easily the biggest fall Alan ever held. He lowered me down 8 gruesome pitches(thank you Coz). Anybody who knows about the South Face of Half Dome knows what a train wreck it is to get there. A freakish rescue is unbelievable. I begged and pleaded for a YOSAR rescue, a helicopter or whatever. Alan then looked me straight in the eyes and said "dude, were from Boulder and we won't be rescued in Yosemite". Alan literally carried me on his back to Little Yosemite Valley, a coupla miles. I then took a horse ride down to the bottom. Another crazed experience.

if you ever break your feet on Half Dome and got to be carried out. Alan Lester is the man for the job. I just want Tami to do all the play by play toons!

The horse ride to the Valley floor with air splints on is a sobering experiance.

#1 is the 3rd ascent of Sheer Terror here in Eldo. Closest I've ever come to killing myself.

#2 is blowing the exit mantle on Midnight Lightning. Pads had not been created then and I almost broke both legs for the first time.


Nice Justin. This deserves a place here.
this just in

Justin Ross from North Fork
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2015 - 08:15am PT

Glad you found that Mike, I was looking for it.

Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Feb 3, 2015 - 08:23am PT
He will be missed for sure. What a great character!

Supertaco is lame. I lost interest in posting here.

The Larry

Moab, UT
Feb 3, 2015 - 08:28am PT
I am proud to call Hank and his hot wife friends. Two great, happy, positive people. Oh, and Hank is funny as f*#k.

Three cheers to the Hankster!

Trad climber
Feb 3, 2015 - 08:30am PT
when he was purdy...

Credit: ddriver

Trad climber
Feb 3, 2015 - 08:45am PT
Hank does indeed rule, forgot that "brief history" hilarious clip was of him.

pretty bad when even the trolls go to post something, and then go, "meh".

Feb 3, 2015 - 09:16am PT
Hahaha ROFLMAO !!!!

Locker for the win .....

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 3, 2015 - 12:11pm PT
Pretty sad when a solid climber like Hank decides, for what ever reason, to move on.

Pretty sad deal really, this place is becoming the summitpost all over again.


Trad climber
The state of confusion
Feb 3, 2015 - 06:57pm PT

Pleeze come back, Hank!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Feb 3, 2015 - 08:56pm PT
Met the hankster and the hot wife last year in golden. Good peeps. Will never forget when he defended my liking on john Denver on the acoustic thread.

Rocky Mountain high.
Jim Clipper

from: forests to tree farms
May 12, 2018 - 09:26pm PT

hank, if you jump... painted blue and white, ill sponsor paint cost at least. have a good trip ...
June 2014

Thought it might inspire some folks in Greece during a tough time.

If you want mail me your fundage acct. B_fredericks at hot mail

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, CO
May 13, 2018 - 03:17am PT
I need to ask Hank if he asked his account to be deleted. We seem to have the same free time during the work week, so have been talking after laughing at mountain project postings. Oh, sh#t. I guess I shouldn't admit to wasting so much time on the intertubes.

More appreesh!
Jim Clipper

from: forests to tree farms
May 13, 2018 - 08:40am PT
No trying to be a creepy internet stalker, maybe just trying to support good use.

Don Paul

Social climber
Denver CO
May 15, 2018 - 04:45pm PT
Hilarious video. Sad to hear of anyone who takes any of this seriously enough to get pissed off and leave. A tough crowd at times, it ain't no #%&@% weenie roast.

Trad climber
May 15, 2018 - 04:48pm PT
BURT BRONSON with humility

Social climber
Canyon Lake, Texas
May 16, 2018 - 05:38am PT
He is my son and I love him! He now is into donkeys.
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