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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 19, 2015 - 01:00pm PT
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I'm going next month and haven't found much info yet.
If you've climbed on either the North or South Island and have recommendations for good climbing areas, your beta would be very much appreciated.
Many thanks,
Laura
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 19, 2015 - 01:51pm PT
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To take me with.
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Jan 19, 2015 - 02:02pm PT
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I had fun at the Hang Dog Camp in Payne's Ford....the top of the South Island in beautiful Golden Bay
ahh the memories
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jan 19, 2015 - 03:20pm PT
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What sort of climbing ... rock or alpine climbing, etc
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jan 19, 2015 - 03:27pm PT
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Dress warmly
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 19, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
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L, I can loan you a set of crampons for down there.
They're at least as good as these...
BadAzz Crampons
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TradEddie
Trad climber
Philadelphia, PA
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Jan 19, 2015 - 05:19pm PT
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I had a fun day with a guide near Wanaka, the climbing was nothing exceptional, but the views were spectacular. Castle Hill looked like it had amazing bouldering, but weather didn't co-operate for us. Queenstown seems to be the center of all outdoor activities, but we were looking for a quieter scene so didn't stay long there.
Whatever you do, you'll have a great time. Post pics.
TE
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roadkillphil
Trad climber
Colorado
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Jan 19, 2015 - 06:46pm PT
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Get in touch with the NZ Alpine Club, maybe even join. Great hut system, many resources. Good source for guidebooks. "South Island Rock" is a good one. Lots of variety. Seaside cragging at Long Beach, alpine rock out of Homer Hut in the Darrans, rock routes in the Remarkables, big mountains in the Southern Alps. Sport in Port Hills, Wanaka, and Paynes Ford. And so on. Be ready for some wet and windy weather.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jan 19, 2015 - 08:52pm PT
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Have fun L!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jan 19, 2015 - 09:48pm PT
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Summer has finally arrived up North-hot, hot, hot.
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GrahamJ
climber
In the rain
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Jan 20, 2015 - 12:41am PT
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I live in Wanaka - great spot for rock, alpine climbing, etc... What do you want to do?
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 20, 2015 - 01:03am PT
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hey there say, laura nice to see you here!
have a great time...
say, i sent you an email...
happy new year!
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2015 - 07:03am PT
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Mike m--Just got the PataGucchi 120L Black Hole Duffel. Will you fit?
eKat--The Galapagos were FRIGGIN' AWESOME! I was on a liveaboard boat for a week, so mostly I hiked when we went ashore, snorkeled when we didn't, and drank Caipirinhas (k-eye-per-reen-yahs...they are evil concoctions that taste like Heaven and make you forget pretty much everything you do or did) the rest of the time. So I don't think I did any climbing because there really isn't any climbing there. The wildlife was incredible though, and friendlier than my dog.
ryankelly--Golden Bay is now on my list!
JHB--thanks, but could only find people when I googled gill christ. Am I missing something?
John Mac--Rock climbing. Sport or trad.
SLR--thanks. Just another excuse to shop!
wallwombat--thanks!
Reilly--love those! But I'm staying away from ice this trip. Too much black ice here at home. :-)
TradEddie--thanks! The quieter the better as far as I'm concerned.
roadkillphil--thanks!
RyanD--I will. Kiwis love us Yanks. ;-)
guido--Yay! HOT is where it's at! Thanks for Colin's info, too. He sounds very cool & I will be contacting him.
GrahamJ--Wanaka is stunning! You're a lucky man. The guys I'm traveling with only want to do sport or guided trad, so I'm limited to that this trip.
neebee--thanks! I replied to your lovely email.
Robert L--Wow! Great detail. Thanks!
Avery--You rock! Thanks for all the beta. Looking forward to seeing the photos!
THANK YOU EVERYONE for the great suggestions and tips! It's going to be a fabulous trip now.
L
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GrahamJ
climber
In the rain
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Jan 21, 2015 - 11:07am PT
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Yeah, Wanaka's not too bad. If you guys are keen on single pitch sport with easy camping and still be in the mountains, then Wanaka's where it's at. You will need a car though. Payne's Ford is also good - heaps of sport routes, don't need a car once you're there, but not much else to do except swim and hang out. There's not a ton of trad climbing here, so I probably wouldn't bother bringing any of that gear. For sure check out Castle Hill - even if you don't like bouldering.
If you are travelling around - Rock Deluxe is the guidebook to get. It's a "selected climbs" all over the south island. But it is out of print. South Island Rock is similar, still in print, but not as user-friendly.
Have fun, bring rain gear and a good book or two. Bluebird in Wanaka today though...
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Jan 21, 2015 - 11:18am PT
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Not sure if you are planning on spending any time in the north island but if you do and have a car then definitely visit Whanganui bay.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/whanganui-bay/106394614
I lived in a Auckland a year just to climb at Mt eden quarry but now I guess it isn't as popular.. But worth going to it if you have a couple of days in Auckland. A local bus will get you there.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/mt-eden-quarry/107708836
However, my favorite rock climbing areas are all in the south island, that being climbing out of Homer Hut or the alpine.
Have fun.
Also, don't discount Castle Hill because people think it's only a bouldering area. It's not, there are tons of great routes. Unless you are used to climbing limestone it can take a couple of days to get used too, but the setting is amazing. A bit like Bishop. We used to drive back and forth during weekends from Mt Cook village to escape the rain.
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landcruiserbob
Trad climber
PUAKO, BIG ISLAND Kohala Coast
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Jan 21, 2015 - 11:35am PT
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Go surfing instead , the place rocks...;-)
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jan 21, 2015 - 02:27pm PT
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Watch out for the sharks, L!!!!
hee hee hee. . .
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jan 21, 2015 - 03:18pm PT
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I am sure I will.
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2015 - 07:05pm PT
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John Mac--You're suggestions win!!!
After reading about the route "Tibia", a 5-star R route with an unprotectable chimney at Whanganui Bay, and seeing the photo of what lives at the bottom of that chimney:
I've decided this is where we're climbing!
You just can't get this sort of stuff in the ol' US of A. No where no how.
Thank you!
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