Gene Drake...

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mastadon

Trad climber
crack addict
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 12, 2014 - 12:24pm PT

Any of you Tahoe/Yosemite people remember Gene Drake? I just got off the phone with him. He's in hospice and not expected to be around much longer. Actually, he said he was supposed to be gone a week ago. He's totally lucid and in good spirits and it was REALLY good to talk to him. He and Cindy are living in Port Angeles.

He'd love to hear from his old friends. His number: 530 448-6051.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
Dec 12, 2014 - 12:49pm PT
When I started climbing in the Lake Tahoe region in the early 70's Gene was The Man. He authored the first decent guidebook to Lover's Leap and used to regale us with tales of doing The Line free. We all aspired to climb like Gene.

Later, when we lived in the Valley, as did Gene, he always let us in on the unannounced supermarket specials, usually held when climbers were out on the rock, so we could keep our low budget climbing adventure alive as long as possible.

Here's to you Gene!
Urmas

Social climber
Sierra Eastside
Dec 12, 2014 - 12:54pm PT
I remember Gene fondly as well. I knew him in the late 70's when I moved to the North Tahoe area. He was very friendly and encouraging. I wish him strength and good spirits in this difficult time.
crankster

Trad climber
Dec 12, 2014 - 06:29pm PT
Oh no...awful news. A Donner Summit legend. Wow. Bad.
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Dec 12, 2014 - 08:40pm PT
My first job in Truckee was at the Sierra Mountaineer which was next door to the downtown post office where Gene was an employee. He would come in daily to shoot the sh#t and ask what I've climbed lately and what my plans were for future ascents. Every climb I mentioned, he had done, and every one I had plans to do, he had endless info and stoke for. Working in a climbing shop and making $6 an hour, I was always dirt poor unable to purchase much of the hardware I was peddling. Luckily, Gene got deals for Boreal shoes, so i would always buy his handme downs. I still have a pair of aces of his. I used to subscribe to a couple of climbing rags back then that would arrive each month a couple days past when my buddies were recieving theirs, and they seemed a little less than fresh, don't think I didn't notice Gene! The guy was fondling my mags! Classic.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Dec 12, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
This is terrible news. I was in Berkeley when Gene moved to Fresno, but I attended a slide show at his place in the summer of 1970, not realizing who he was. I think that's the only time I met him, but I have the original Tollhouse guide that is his workmanship, and I used that Lover's Leap guide in my Berkeley years. He certainly made a wonderful contribution to the Fresno climbing scene.

I'll try to let Mark Haymond know. Although I don't know you in person, Gene, my prayers go with you and your family.

John

rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Dec 13, 2014 - 12:29am PT
Gene Drake

A real.inspiration to me in my teenage climbing years

I remember finally getting oriented, must have been 1971 or so, with his Leap guide. Before that we had no idea what we were climbing.

My friend Bill and I shared a few campfires and jugs of wine with Gene in the early 70's. A very friendly, helpful and enthusiastic man. Not many like him.

Keep up the good spirits Gene. You have had a remarkable journey.


Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Dec 13, 2014 - 06:23am PT
Always friendly and stoked to be climbing, positive thoughts for Gene & Cindy.
Ghoulwe

Trad climber
Spokane, WA
Dec 13, 2014 - 06:58am PT
I spoke with Gene yesterday and as Mastadon said above, he sounded clear and in good spirits. We did a bit of reminiscing about old times and recalled some old friends and good times. I spent a lot of time around Gene in the late '70's/early 80's and he was one of the most positive and humorous people I knew. Always had a fun time with him whether climbing around Donner or XC skiing at Royal Gorge.

When I hung up the phone, I did some reflecting about how we all know we're going to die someday but it must be a strange feeling knowing it is maybe only days away. I think Gene found peace with this somehow and that made me feel better. I wish Cindy much strength through this tough time.

Rest well Gene.

Eric Barrett
Spokane, WA
john bald

climber
Dec 13, 2014 - 01:47pm PT
First ran into Gene in Fort Collins. I was a less than serious student at CSU and Gene was a part time janitor in the evenings on campus. A perfect combination with Jim having the day off and me wanting to cut classes. Trips up to Lumpy and sessions at Horsetooth and Poudre with him and cohort Jim Orye (sp?). He was always one to push me and to teach the finer points balance and power moves.

After moving up to NorCal I would visit him on occasion up at Truckee where he worked at the post office.

One day I saw him roadside at the crag and asked for a recommendation. Firecracker was the climb. While pulling the crux, I exploded off the face in wonderment. After catching up with him later that day I found out that Gene had been watching me.

In acknowledgement of my fall, he said, "I guess you found that polished crystal". Another lesson learned, and now I know how the climb earned it's name.

Thanks Gene! You're the best!
john bald

climber
Dec 13, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
Another Gene mystery?

A couple of years ago I did a climb up at City of Rocks that had the curious name of "GOD Stopper Crack". As the story goes the apparent first ascent party found an old aluminum stopper in the crack with the initials G.O.D. stamped into it.

With how Gene had crossed the country climbing everywhere I had always wondered if this was "his" climb!
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Dec 13, 2014 - 02:20pm PT
Had a great talk with Gene this morning. Cindy wrote me that "he is slipping away". Any of us would be lucky to sound so clear, grounded, utterly present and content with the wonder of life, even at the end. I left him a voice message, and was surprised when he called me right back. Pulled over at the view of the Mammoth Creat you get right before going into Tamarack Lodge. We shared our respective spectacular views over the phone, and reminisced.
Gene could really appreciate that I was about to go classic skiing on blue hard wax. We had done the same together BITD.

Summer of 1977, I turned 15 that June, and went to the Meadows on my own for 8 weeks. Became friends with Gene, and he introduced me to all sorts of cool folks hanging there for the summer. One day he took me to the East Side, turned me onto the Buttermilks, and Schat's jalapeņo cheesebread. The first time I free soloed a route was with him, (great white book) and then we got stoked to find and a good new route to put up. We scoped a couple of walls that would be climbed in the future, but settled on doing the first route on, and actually naming, Low Profile Dome. Our route "Ages Apart" (Gene was 30. I was 15) went up well left of the much later done Golfers Route, I was pretty proud of my lead of the 5.9 second pitch, some gear and then a stout runout up the knobs, Gene liked it, but insisted on going back later to add a bolt, thinking a 5.9 route should be a bit safer.

That winter I started working weekends at Royal Gorge, Gene worked there too. Gene was a superb Nordic skier, having put in some time working at Trapp Family Lodge in Vermont. He reminded me this morning of being my passenger in my first driving snowy spin out, and how after extricating my little civic from the big snow bank, we rapidly overheated on I 80 cause the grill was so packed with snow.

Gene is a sweet awesome man, and I cherish the memories of the honor of his friendship. He is transitioning with such grace...peace and care to Cindy and all his loved ones.

Peter Mayfield

Mark Rodell

Trad climber
Bangkok
Dec 13, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
Gene, I never shared a rope with Gene, was at the Leap a few times when he was there but we were always with other partners. I did ski with him many times, with him and his Tahoe gang. He was a fine skier, strong and smooth, classic. A strong member of the tribe.
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Dec 14, 2014 - 06:31am PT
Bump for a great member of our tribe...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 14, 2014 - 06:44am PT
What a long strange trip, Gene..

I first met Gene through Ken Yager about a million years ago in the valley, '76 (?)
Fast forward to rocksport Gym in. Reno, mid nineties. I was part of the original staff, gene and and Cindy were regulars. That's when I really got to know them. We 'd hang out, talk, share belays, sometimes they would beta test and rate routes I set. Mostly I think of swapping climbing stories, and tales of mutual friends. More and more I'd see them at Donner summit and maybe the gorge. We'd run into each other at Costco or Sierra trading post, just very nice, warm people to be around.
I went through a rough time in my life and they were a bigger help than I can describe.

Well Gene, strength and vibes through this next adventure. Sounds like you're dealing with it in fine style and with a positive view. We should all do so well.

Cheers

Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
Dec 14, 2014 - 06:53am PT
Gene was someone I looked up to when just starting climbing in Tahoe.
His great routes are still some of my favorites.
Thanks for the inspiration Gene!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Dec 14, 2014 - 07:56am PT
hey there, say, all... i do not know gene, but sure know of a lot of the folks here, that know and love him...


prayers for him and his family, at this hard time of life...

i had my daddy pass-on, last year, and at this time, last year, he was doing very badly...

may gene do peacefully and get through this, in his best way, with his loved one, being his strength...

you are in my thoughts and prayers...

overit

Trad climber
Boulder
Dec 14, 2014 - 09:14am PT
Met him and Cindy one day in Donner and then ran into them from time to time on our Tahoe trips. Very nice people, so sad to hear.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 14, 2014 - 09:52am PT
Good tales everyone.

Very fond recollections by those that knew him.

Sounds as though I wish I had met Gene too.

Peace
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Dec 14, 2014 - 01:15pm PT
Wow, pretty upsetting to hear this. I remember him as a level headed, easy going guy. The first climbing guide I ever bought was at the old Alpenglow mountain shop right there next to the post office where Gene worked in downtown Truckee. It was a paperback set of Donner Summit topos compiled by Gene.
Thoughts and prayers to him his loved ones.
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