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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 27, 2014 - 10:37am PT
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I don't know any details, but yesterday a little after noon I glassed up the Nose and saw this cat hanging out in the middle of nowhere with a pig but no rope. Huh. Definitely not something you see everyday.
A few minutes later a fella with what looked like an aircast showed up with a rope.
If he was in any pain, he sure wasn't showing it. These two were soon joined by another. I didn't stick around to see how it turned out, but it looked like they had things more or less under control. Kudos.
We lost ~ 25 meters of a brand new rope deep inside Bishop's Terrace that morning, but this really put things in perspective. I hope they got down safely and the guy in the cast heals well!
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Nov 27, 2014 - 12:17pm PT
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Hanging up there with no rope would be a little unsettling. Love to hear the rest of the story
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Nov 27, 2014 - 12:29pm PT
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Always a good story when you and the pig are ropeless at a belay.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 27, 2014 - 12:32pm PT
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Doesn't look like it was about to start snowing.
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 27, 2014 - 03:22pm PT
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Broke his ankle on a fall on the pitch off Camp 5.
Retreated on his own power to the ground and even made it out to the road from there,
Bad ass .....
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2014 - 05:16pm PT
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Bad ass .....
Yeah he certainly looked calm, cool, and collected. Rapping down on one foot like it was just another day. Brought back a few memories, and I wonder what his precise injury was. When I shattered my talus, I actually didn't have any pain at all, so long as it wasn't touching anything. This led the ER Dr. to mis-diagnose the dislocation and send me home. Not cool.
Anyway, glad to hear they got down without further incident.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 27, 2014 - 08:46pm PT
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So did he really have an air cast in his kit?
Now, THAT, is bad ass! Preparatory repairatory!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Nov 28, 2014 - 05:33am PT
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Broke his ankle on a fall on the pitch off Camp 5.
How many accidents for this pitch? I recall an accident in Sept in the area.
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Techy Mantle
Boulder climber
Boulder, CO
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Nov 28, 2014 - 03:21pm PT
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Clay fell onto the ledge when his piece blew falling 30 feet on the camp five pitch. Broke his tib fib. We used a belay seat and a piece of plastic chair that I had found wedged in a crack to build his splint for his leg. About two rolls of climbing tape later we had made a pretty damn good air cast. Freddy took off with the pig and put clay in the middle for repels. 18 raps later we were at the base. Clay rapped on a gri so he could slide on one side of his body down the wall keeping the left broken leg on the outside . Carried him out to the meadow and asked some sweds to call an ambulance. Thanks for the water btw. That was our first time on the nose. Won't be our last! Cheers!
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Nov 28, 2014 - 03:24pm PT
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VERY well done, fellas. What an exemplary self-rescue. Your story should be broadcast....loudly!
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CA.Timothy
climber
California
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Nov 28, 2014 - 03:27pm PT
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impressive. makes me realize that I am totally unprepared for most self rescue situations
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Gene
climber
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Nov 28, 2014 - 03:29pm PT
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Respect to the team. Fine job!
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Nov 28, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
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You ruined the story by telling us you called an ambulance. Clay would have been a legend if he had retreated to the Mountain Room for a drink, brandy of course.
Great job getting off, how long did it take?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Nov 28, 2014 - 03:37pm PT
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VERY well done, fellas. What an exemplary self-rescue. Your story should be broadcast....loudly!
Indeed! And quite badass as well.
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Techy Mantle
Boulder climber
Boulder, CO
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Nov 28, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
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Thanks for the support everyone. We just wanted to get our brother down. That night we went to curry and got a pizza and beers. Best pizza and beer I've ever had.
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Techy Mantle
Boulder climber
Boulder, CO
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Nov 28, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
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John beck, it took us 5 hours to get down to the meadow,roughly.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Nov 28, 2014 - 04:38pm PT
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Nice going guys.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 28, 2014 - 06:59pm PT
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5hrs down.. very solid, seems you guys had your stuff together.. shame to have a trip end this way. Hard to call this a fail. Very few folks handle a situation like this so well.
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coolrockclimberguy69
climber
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Nov 28, 2014 - 07:05pm PT
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We used a belay seat and a piece of plastic chair that I had found wedged in a crack to build his splint for his leg.
Gangster as f*#k. Nice job, gentlemen!
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Nov 28, 2014 - 07:22pm PT
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Great job on a safe self rescue! The Pizza and beer will taste even better after you guys make it to the top next time!!
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