shoe recommendations

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Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 11, 2014 - 07:54am PT
OK, since one of my Mythos was inadvertently left at the base of Warlock Needle, where it will likely spend a long, lonely winter, and because my Ninjas (yes, you read that correctly) are about to give up the ghost, I'm looking at something to replace the latter. I'm asking on this site since many of you have the historical reference of past shoes to know what I'm looking for. I'd like something to replace the Ninja, but a little beefier, so I can wear them on roped stuff like thin cracks or climbing face at Josh or Suicide. Too much of what I've seen are either the downturned toe shoes or the heavy, inexpensive clunkers. FYI, I'll probably be getting some TC Pros to replace the Mythos, so I'm looking more for a lighter shoe. Sorry for the novel.

What do you folks like these days?
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Nov 11, 2014 - 08:00am PT
Moccasym
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Nov 11, 2014 - 08:00am PT
It's Veteran's day, both Sports Chalet & REI have big sales going on today. Just go get whatever they have, it's on sale. Use a credit card that has points as well as your membership club card so you get maximum return. Sports Chalet probably has a slightly better deal.

Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
Nov 11, 2014 - 08:02am PT
Try some Mocasyms. I've had 2 pair. Used them for everything. They are still slippers though.
I think you can still get a version of the ninja.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 11, 2014 - 08:14am PT
Fat.... Mythos. I love Mythos, they fit my feet like a glove. Put the TC on your feet, if they fit you will love em, if like me and they don't, you won't, then go with the Mythos.




Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 11, 2014 - 08:56am PT
Thanks for the replies dudes. How do Mocasymms (sp?) fit narrower feet? I've generally stuck with La Sportiva since they have a narrower fit. And Guy, I like my Mythos now that they're broken in, though they felt clunky at first, but would hate to buy another pair when there's at least a (slim) chance I'll find the missing shoe. Plus, it'd be nice to have something that edges a bit better. The Mythos are more of a "smedging" shoe.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Cali
Nov 11, 2014 - 09:32am PT
Try the Evolv Defy to replace the Ninjas. I loved my Ninjas and the Defys are pretty close and are a good shoe if your feet are a bit wide. They have much better feel than Mocassims.
john bald

climber
Nov 11, 2014 - 09:34am PT
If you have a fat foot and want an all day, do anything shoe, checkout the TechnoX by Scarpa. Good alternative for the TCPro with little or no breakin time.

I have been on them for a season since my Acopas are no longer serviceable.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2014 - 09:10pm PT
Bump for a couple of reasons. One, I picked up a pair of TC Pros at A-16, since my bday is coming up and the all their shoes are 25% off.

Second, I'm looking at the Mocasyms to replace my Ninjas as a gym/bouldering shoe. How much stretch should I figure when buying. I remember buying Ninjas that were foot crushing tight because of the anticipated stretch, but not sure if that's as much of an issue with the Mocasyms.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 22, 2014 - 12:31am PT
What about the Muira's since you like la sportiva anyways, they have a thinner toe box and look kind of edgy. I've seen lots of friends use them for both crack and face pitches, but they've never made a pair big enough for me.. Lol
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
Nov 22, 2014 - 05:07am PT
Mythos? Not my choice ---------------the leather is easily stretched which gives a short life--soon you have loose shoes[no edging power] and a resoling may only be good for a bigger foot. Get synthetic uppers and get several resoles for a shoe that remains the same size.

I have muiras, 2 pr 5.10 Anasazi [ 2 sizes] verdes, evolvs shamin and one pair of the white synthetic Anasazi [stiff] in my working set but would choose the 5.10 verdes if had to have only one pair.

drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Nov 22, 2014 - 05:50am PT
I size down my Mocs a whole size+ from street. 10.5/11>>>9.5.
They stretch a lot but you'll know when they hit their sweet spot. They'll stay there for a while before getting too floppy but usually they're toast by then anyway. For me at least. This is the only shoe I wear.
Remember, you'll have Mocfoot for a while.
Your feet will be strong but red.
Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic
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