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Mar1
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 20, 2014 - 10:45am PT
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Just an FYI for folks climbing at Texas Canyon. A number of the moderate routes have had bolts and chains removed e.g. Aqua Negro, Spider Line, etc... So please be careful as it's 40' to the first bolt and once to the top nothing to rap from.
The good new is the other more difficult routes are still up and fully protected.
Off belay,
Mar-bear
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 20, 2014 - 10:49am PT
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Does this reflect some official policy, vandalism or what? Thanks.
John
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Mar1
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2014 - 10:55am PT
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No idea. Went there yesterday with a few friends that are new to the area and saw that stuff was missing. I suspect vandalism otherwise someone would have/ should have indicated the routes were out of comission.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 20, 2014 - 10:56am PT
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BOLT WAR?????
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Yafer
Trad climber
Chatsworth, California
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Oct 20, 2014 - 12:10pm PT
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MAR. Do you know Mike or Matt or Ben?
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Oct 20, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
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Hopefully just bolt replacement as some of them were getting loose. That place is such an overbolted pile of choss anyways I dont know why someone would try and make a bolt war statement there.
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Mar1
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
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Yafer, Yes, I know Ben. He put up a lot of the routes there. Great guy.
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Mar1
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2014 - 01:42pm PT
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Matty,
Please don't be disrespectful. A handful of people put a lot of THEIR OWN time, money and effort putting up those routes so that people in the area can enjoy. I for one like the area. It's super convenient for people like myself with family commitments to get a quick fix for their jones. Having said that thanks to the folks that put up and maintain the routes.
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Mar1
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
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Wow, Locker, Jeff,
I have a feeling most climbing places in the world are considered "choss piles" to you two. Your contributions here suggest that you're both embittered old has-beens with major chips or two.
It's people like yourselves who don't add anything useful, who enjoy mocking the enthusiasm of newer climbers, disparaging the efforts of people far worthier than yourself, and generally interrupting valid discussions with your antics.
Take your boredom and misery somewhere else.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Oct 20, 2014 - 04:04pm PT
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OMG not the former owner of Arc'teryx!!!!
Thank god at least HE survived.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Oct 20, 2014 - 04:08pm PT
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Calling Texas Canyon an overbolted choss pile is not being disrespectful, just accurate;) I live down the road a few miles and go there frequently and enjoy the routes people have put up but also recognize them for what they are, overbolted and on choss. Fun stuff for sure, but just because a route can be bolted dont mean that it always should! I'll bow out of the conversation now, don't have anything else to add, just hoped the bolts were being replaced and wondered why someone would chop bolts there when there are much better places to make statements about bolts.
Wow, Locker, Jeff,
I have a feeling most climbing places in the world are considered "choss piles" to you two. Your contributions here suggest that you're both embittered old has-beens with major chips or two.
It's people like yourselves who don't add anything useful, who enjoy mocking the enthusiasm of newer climbers, disparaging the efforts of people far worthier than yourself, and generally interrupting valid discussions with your antics.
Take your boredom and misery somewhere else.
WOW you really take peoples views of texas canyon personally and cant seem to handle any difference of opinion. With a comeback like that you're not separating yourself much from those you just put down.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Oct 20, 2014 - 04:31pm PT
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sorry but thats whats going on at Texas. Levy Rincon Guyman R bummed out..
Glue and Chisel belong in a wood shop. Not at the rocks.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 20, 2014 - 04:43pm PT
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Mar..... wow, you need to chill some.
Texas Canyon is choss.... to say its anything else, shows your lack of knowlege of just what CHOSS is.
And its not overbolted, infact its underbolted, IMHO.
I never like to be 10 feet out, with crumbling footholds (both) and hand holds (both).
I am surprised to find out someone took the anchors off of long established climbs. Some of those go back to the early 90's.
EDIT to add
And to Jeff C. ..... why do you make false statements? I am not "bummed out" and I don't think Rincon is or Levy.... and Yafer is just asking...
you know?
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Jawon
climber
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Oct 20, 2014 - 05:06pm PT
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Yeah, it's choss. Peanut brittle. But let's not mistake choss for useless. I've been there to get familiarized with rope solo gear and just experiment in general. And it adds a first ascent flavor for those like me who have yet to experience a real one.
And if you're not touching the rock, I quite like the setting. I've been there all alone and will try to make that happen again.
Back to the OP, choss or not, whether you like the developers or not, that's just wrong for the bolts to get chopped. Thx for the warning.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Oct 20, 2014 - 06:03pm PT
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The long standing battle over Texas Canyon evidently has reached epic proportions.
THE LEGENDS ARE TRUE!
Here's actual video footage of TC with Medusa and Ben duking it out. I believe those short guys running for their lives may be the aforementioned "former owner of Arc'Teryx" and some of his entourage fleeing the rain of choss.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
But really guys...all this fighting over Texas Canyon is just nuts. NUTS I TELL YA! I happen to like the place... but I'm an admitted choss-lover and can accept it for what it is. Really a shame some of the older climbs have been messed with. It's totally f*#ked up *someone* chopped them.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Oct 20, 2014 - 06:08pm PT
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Bummer. I put in a bunch of hardware. Some swiped years ago. Spider Line was my first route. Ground up.
All my other lines were ground-up TRed. Placements as if one was leading.
An sure, 20 ft + runouts. Freakin 5.2 (less really)
Some folks don't like my bolts put in over 15 years ago but they were solid 4 inches long. Hand crafted placements, solid. PLus who's taking repeated falls on 5.6?
Meanwhile, out at the Punchbowl you can climb with ground-up placed 1/4 inch rawl bolts on Leeper and SMC hangers. Bet those go in about 2 inches at least.
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Solid Rock guy
Trad climber
Sun Valley, CA
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Oct 20, 2014 - 06:18pm PT
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I believe that Spider's Line is still there, except for the first bolt. The anchors are there too, although the two sets of anchors north of that line were either removed or partially removed, effectively disabling the Acme TR Wall.
I like climbing on "choss" too, especially on some of those nice lines out there. Appreciate the folks like Spider and others who take the time to maintain a beautiful climbing area.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Oct 20, 2014 - 06:23pm PT
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If this was only a few years ago, a glued or Manufactured or squeeze job route would be Chopped onsite. I don't understand these new tactics. Just sad.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Oct 20, 2014 - 06:28pm PT
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PLus who's taking repeated falls on 5.6?
<Raises hand!>
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Oct 20, 2014 - 06:34pm PT
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Glue ups out there are pointless. The rock around the glue would just errode.
The area is not being respected. It's public land. As little impact as possible should be the ethic.
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