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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 19, 2014 - 10:25pm PT
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Hey all,
Posted this on MP and someone offered me a nice Bibler bivy which some other prick swooped in and stole. Anyways.
I'm looking for a 70cm axe, would appreciate some input on favorite types. Right now I am looking at the BD Raven and the Grivel G1. For some reason even though I'm only 5'8" the 70cm is an inch or so above the ankle but I don't want to go any longer then that. Some glacier travel but mostly mid angle stuff in snow/ice fields.
Also looking for some advice on a decent pair of strap on crampons that would be compatible with my Salomon Quest boots. Grivel G10s maybe?
Last but not least, I am looking for an original Bibler Big Wall hooped bivy, in new or really good condition.
So, any advice would be helpful, and if you have any of these items for sale please let me know.
Cragman, this partially has to do with your search and that area, and your messages are disabled. Your input would be really welcome. Thanks all!
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Oct 20, 2014 - 11:06am PT
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What are your aspirations? -while using this gear.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2014 - 11:15am PT
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Mostly summertime alpine work on or around (mostly around) glaciers at some times. An attempt on Shasta may also be in the cards at some point, as is a trip out to the Grand.
At this time I am not looking into going the full bore double boots etc gear route.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Oct 20, 2014 - 11:37am PT
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5'8"? I'd go with a 65cm. Raven is very light, and the head was very comfy in-hand as I recall (sold mine when I moved to SoCal).
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Oct 20, 2014 - 12:56pm PT
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I like 65cm for all around use. I'm 5'8".
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Oct 20, 2014 - 01:04pm PT
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I'm 5'12" and have an 80 cm Raven. It feels long on my pack, but perfect in use.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2014 - 01:23pm PT
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Yeah, I have to admit that I really liked the feel of the Raven, so I am leaning towards that.
I thought that I would use a 65 as well, but as I said when I stand relaxed with the 70 the point is around two inches above my ankle....I must have really short arms. Just worried about ordering one and having it not be right.
Measurement from long finger to floor is 67cm.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2014 - 07:21pm PT
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Have a Bbler Bivy on the way, brand new for $150. Score.
Still looking for more advice about proper axe length - and if anyone has a BD in my size let me know. I think I have a line on some BD Sabertooth crampons for cheap that will let me muck around a bit and decide if I want to do more.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Oct 20, 2014 - 07:29pm PT
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Be warned that the big wall bivy sucks for big walls. The envelope entry is annoyingly small and a real hassle to enter on a portaledge. I keep wishing mine would get a rip or give me a good enough reason to replace it.
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Oct 20, 2014 - 08:31pm PT
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I'm 6'4" and use a 70cm axe. I would go with a 65cm axe unless you plan on doing mostly flat to low angle stuff (which I think poles are better for anyways).
I have the sabretooth crampons and like them. To be honest they are my first pair so I can't compare them to much, but they get the job done.
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Vegasclimber
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2014 - 11:18pm PT
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Thanks for the replies, all. Going to go with the 65, and if it doesn't work out I can always get another one.
Cragman, I appreciate your reluctance to suggest anything. Part of the reason I am getting this stuff, is that I realized from some of your posts that there is a large part of alpinism in general that I know nothing about. When I have something I am interested in that I find I know nothing about, I tend to make a goal to learn more. That's what I will be doing this winter. I'd like to go out with you to help you with your search, (if you'll have me along) but the last thing I want to be in a search situation is a liability. I dealt with enough of that on the last SAR team I was on.
Moof, thanks for the heads up on the bivy. I think it will be used more in the ground aspect then big wall, but I want to still have something in the pig just in case sh#t happens and I decided not to drag the fly along for whatever reason. Bivy sack weighs a hell of a lot less, both for (summer) alpine and walling.
Anyways all, thanks again for the input without flaming, it's very appreciated!
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The Call Of K2 Lou
Mountain climber
North Shore, BC
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Oct 20, 2014 - 11:42pm PT
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Another vote here for the Raven axe. I love the ergonomic shape of the head.
I too am getting into the snow and ice game, and crampons are next. Muchos thanks to those who've contributed advice.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Oct 21, 2014 - 08:17am PT
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Raven is good and clean. Like a work of art if you will..I like that model. However, I have been using a Grivel Racing glacier axe for basic stuff.
Last night I double checked the length and it's at 60cm. I prefer the shorter length even though I still recommend a 65 for the height you mention. -it'll keep you from leaning over too much which interferes with breathing.
The few reasons I have been using a 60 instead of 65:
-I like steeper slope angles and don't spend much time on true, crevassed glaciers anymore.
-When traveling/climbing on popular routes (think Alps), the track gets so packed that they become "deep". Walking along and lifting the axe high enough to make contact with the outer, top edge of the track becomes real tiring real fast.
-Shorter/lighter.
-I don't stand up straight anyways, so I'm only 5' 8" occasionally ; )
Overall I would still go with a 65cm...unless you're going to get into the Alps frequently or if you're going to be doing more technical, steep stuff...then I'd go with an ice tool. I like the modular flexibility of the Cassin X-Mountain. There are plenty of configuration with that model.
IMO - ditch the spike to ankle rule of thumb. It's just a generalization for a starting point.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Oct 21, 2014 - 09:46am PT
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I like the RAVEN PRO, lighter and plenty durable. I have grivel g-12 and love them too.
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Tricerabottoms
climber
Tri County Fairgrounds
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Oct 21, 2014 - 09:52am PT
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The long cane style axes are old school. Don't waste your time. Get the shortest lightest tool you can find for snow travel. I'd go with one of the Camp aluminum ones.
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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
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