Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Camahoo
Trad climber
Shaver Springs
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 16, 2014 - 03:17pm PT
|
Back in the day 5.9 was the sh_t, now we are putting up 5.15c. However, as the top end get higher it seems like the lower end of the rating system get softer. Moby Dick when I first climbed it was (Roper's Guide) 5.9. When I was 14 it was my first lead climb in the valley. A few years ago I revisited (32 years later) this classic climb, it still felt like a 5.9 but has the rating of 5.10a.
I think what may be happening is that, as new climbs go up by folks that can climb at or near the top end have a real hard time with the average guy/gal ratings of 5.9 - 5.11b.
I am just wondering if this is the dumbing down of the mid grades. We all know of routes that are under rated or just wrong.
I'm just putting this out there to see if this is a trend with new routes or old classics in your areas.
|
|
Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 03:29pm PT
|
Yes, my generation is inflating your old skool grades. . . and then we free solo them. Mwhahahahaha
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
|
Not at my gym.
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 03:49pm PT
|
It's been a log hard road from The Open Book at Tahquitz to the Stronghold in NE LA.
Not even the same kind of sport.
At the gym you know it's hard but the holds are there.
Out in the wild, you don't even know where the hold is or if it's still there. Huge difference.
|
|
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 04:00pm PT
|
When you come from the hinterlands Yosemite grades feel a bit soft.
|
|
paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 04:09pm PT
|
I mean what's the difference between 5.9 and 10a? Might be just a question of how humid it is on a particular day. The thing about M.D. is try it with pair of Robbins blue shoes or Kronhoffers and stoppers and hexes instead of cams. Equipment and safety are so much improved now ratings take on a whole different meaning.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 04:21pm PT
|
Old school 5.8 = new school 10a
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 04:32pm PT
|
I'm sure Norman Clyde would agree with the OP.
|
|
Barbarian
climber
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 04:56pm PT
|
Old school 5.8 = new school 10a
Cool! I'm becoming a better climber just by sitting in the office. Pretty good trick at my age...
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 06:14pm PT
|
Not at Granite Mountain....
Holy F#$$#
|
|
mynameismud
climber
backseat
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 06:20pm PT
|
in general yes, especially at the gym.
|
|
Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 08:01pm PT
|
Beware Granite Mountain 5.8+!
|
|
RyanD
climber
Squamish
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 08:16pm PT
|
Grade creep?? It's very real.
This never would have happened if u guys would have done a better job defending the world from sport climbing BITD.
|
|
Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 08:20pm PT
|
Seems to me each area stays fairly consistent but can be divergent from other areas. I'd say anything rated in the Gallatin Canyon MT is suspect, that place makes me feel weak.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 09:19pm PT
|
Aside from sandbagging etc there is no softening of grades.
Even Ondra/ Sharma doing V16s are looking for a consensus on what the actual rating is.
If anything, grades are getting more accurate.
|
|
MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 09:26pm PT
|
Are ratings going soft.
I think what may be happening is that, as new climbs go up by folks that can climb at or near the top end have a real hard time with the average guy/gal ratings of 5.9 - 5.11b.
Pay a visit to some of the "new-school" stuff at Waterfall Wall in Oak Creek Canyon to refresh your perspective.
Enjoy the grip...
|
|
coolrockclimberguy69
climber
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 09:29pm PT
|
The only thing stupider than applying a subjective number to a rockclimb is the person who actually nitpicks about them.
|
|
i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 10:10pm PT
|
yeah but I heard your gym is soft...
it might not be the new climbers that are blowing the curve, maybe it's the old climbers. when 5.9 was the hardest grade it would include anything harder than 5.8, regardless of how much harder it was.
|
|
Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
|
|
|
Oct 16, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
|
Ratings aren't soft, they are only numbers people assign to soften the adventure of the unknown. Categorizing, classifying constructs of personal subjectivity. Oh and moby dick is one of the most sand bagged climbs, even at 10a.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!