Five Ten making new Grandstones. . .

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skitch

climber

East of Heaven

Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 25, 2014 - 04:54pm PT

I've heard that Five Ten is working on a new Grandstone to compete with the TC Pro, they were even trying to make it to OR last month, but thankfully they are waiting till they get everything right!

A high top Hueco with a slightly more chiseled toe would be great in my book!

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Sep 25, 2014 - 06:11pm PT

So far there isn't a high top shoe that comes close to filling the bill and that includes the TC Pro. The current crop are all too clunky and don't have nearly a good enough toe profile for thin cracks.
Just because it's an all day trad shoe doesn't mean it shouldn't be super high performance.
These shoes need to be:
lighter
more sensitive
and
have a much better toe profile

I don't care to have a shoe with dumed down performance just to get ankle bone protection.

TGT

Social climber

So Cal

Sep 25, 2014 - 06:58pm PT

Why can't Sportiva just resurrect the Kalculator?

My two pairs are on life support.

Looks like the leather will rot before I do.

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा

Sep 26, 2014 - 12:36pm PT

The Grandstones are much better than the Kaukulators but not very stiff.
TC Pro is the replacement for the Kauk's.

Overall Grandstones are lighter, slimmer toe profile and very sensitive compared to TC and Kauk's.

Grandstone is a great shoe, glad they listened to the feedback to bring them back.

skitch

climber

East of Heaven

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2014 - 03:53pm PT

donini

So far there isn't a high top shoe that comes close to filling the bill and that includes the TC Pro. The current crop are all too clunky and don't have nearly a good enough toe profile for thin cracks.
Just because it's an all day trad shoe doesn't mean it shouldn't be super high performance.
These shoes need to be:
lighter
more sensitive
and
have a much better toe profile

I don't care to have a shoe with dumed down performance just to get ankle bone protection.

I love the TC Pro, just wish they made them in a size 47!

I am only 36 years old and my feet are already trashed, partly from climbing shoes and partly from skateboard (I think). I have to wear some pretty big shoes if I'm going to climb a slab/crack all day long and still be able to walk back to the car at night!

I've heard that the Anasazi High Top was supposed to fit exactly like the regular Anasazi, which I wouldn't want to wear while crack climbing, but that Dean Potter guy sure thinks is great for "trad"

What I think the biggest issue is: most people don't "trad" climb very hard, so don't really get a lot out of performance shoes so they look for something comfy.

I can jam off-fingers and bigger just fine in my tc-pros, and I wear a size 14 street shoe! I do wear mine as flat as possible, since I have to go with the size 46 because Sportiva doesn't make em any bigger.

skitch

climber

East of Heaven

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2014 - 03:56pm PT

The new Butora High Top is supposed to be more aggressive than the TC pro, we'll see, the low top is board lasted, but these are slip: http://www.butora.com/shoes/altura

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Sep 26, 2014 - 04:05pm PT

The very newest TC pros have a narrower toe profile and seem slightly less wide, on my feet anyway.

Granstsones had a lot of widefooted fans,who will be psyched, but were way, soft.

Sportiva is still the only choice for narrow high arched feet, but the non wide option on the Butoras( they come in wide and regular) might be worth a look!

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Sep 26, 2014 - 04:08pm PT

And exactly why is it I can't buy a pair of Donini-labeled 'Hulk' high-tops?

FRUMY

Trad climber

Bishop,CA

Sep 26, 2014 - 05:00pm PT

Butora -- Man those things are heavy.

JLP

Social climber

The internet

Sep 26, 2014 - 05:11pm PT

I have no idea how anyone climbs harder than 5.10 in TC Pro. All these "trad" shoes feel like clunky noob boots better suited for shoveling the sidewalk than rock climbing. Add some ankle protection to the Pinks, maybe tone down the slingshot by a mm or two for the heal-toe and all day aspect - that would be ideal for me - but still lacking for the hardest pitches compared to a VCS/Team/Dragon type of shoe.

WBraun

climber

Sep 26, 2014 - 05:14pm PT

Only over the hill old farts need or want these clunker high tops.

goatboy smellz

climber

लघिमा

Sep 26, 2014 - 06:07pm PT

I have fine, delicate, porcelain skin and don't want to show off bloody ankles when in town.
Don't hate on us Werner.

^^^mouse caught us out and about.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Sep 26, 2014 - 07:30pm PT

I have no idea how anyone climbs harder than 5.10 in TC Pro.

Obviously you don't get out much...

skitch

climber

East of Heaven

Topic Author's Reply - Sep 26, 2014 - 09:35pm PT

All the cool bishop kids wear TC pros. . .

RyanD

climber

Squamish

Sep 27, 2014 - 12:06am PT

What does Werner lace up in these days?

Mark Force

Trad climber

Cave Creek, AZ

Sep 27, 2014 - 04:10am PT

couchmaster

climber

Oct 28, 2014 - 11:01am PT

Werner alternative method isn't about lacing, but he's high socking for protection. Those seated sockless gentlemen are clearly behind the times 1980's style Eldo Prancers™™™™™ (™ by Russ Walling).

PUT A PIECE IN WERNER!!!

Donini has it right upthread about hightops IMO. When are these magic Grandstones going to appear?