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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 16, 2014 - 09:05am PT
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My wife and I are heading out to New Hampshire in 2 weeks to check out the fall colors, climb, and hike while visiting some relatives who live out there. We might be based out of a cottage in Moultonborough for a few days if things work. But at this point I don't really know where that is in relation to everything else. Patty and I have never been to New Hampshire. Part of the plan is to hike/backpack in the Whites. Depending upon timing among other things, I might give a shot at that 22.5 mi traverse one day. It's a bit up in the air at the moment.
As for the climbing. We will be looking for easy to moderate stuff. Seems like something similar to the Upper Cliff in Pawtuckaway would be perfect for us. Trad and Top Rope friendly with stuff down to 5.6; things good for my wife and relatives who don't climb to warm up on. My TR upper limit is in the 5.10's and it seems areas dominated with 5.11-.12 are only areas to screw myself up on. Ratings being what they are I'm not too sure what this all means, but we will work our way up the ratings from the bottom.
1) Any suggestions on crags? We will try to go during the middle of the week so we can be clueless in relative privacy.
2) Do we really need to get a guidebook? Or is the Mountain Project info accurate enough or more up to date?
Any suggestions appreciated,
thanks, Chris
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ClimbingOn
Trad climber
NY
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Sep 16, 2014 - 09:11am PT
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Chris,
Do you fully understand how annoying it is to backpack in the Whites? Truly one of the most difficult places to backpack, logistics wise. The entire range is run by the AMC. The AMC caters to affluent casual hikers/backpackers, pretty much exclusively. You are not allowed to simply camp wherever you would like. You are bound to their pay-campsites and huts. The huts are super, super expensive and almost always require reservations. They cost as much as a fairly nice hotel.
Driving in to the Whites at night and trying to find a place to car-camp or camp close to the road is virtually impossible. The AMC does a lot of good things but I am very much not a fan of their endless rules and regulations.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2014 - 09:27am PT
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Do you fully understand how annoying it is to backpack in the Whites? Truly one of the most difficult places to backpack, logistics wise. The entire range is run by the AMC. The AMC caters to affluent casual hikers/backpackers, pretty much exclusively. You are not allowed to simply camp wherever you would like. You are bound to their pay-campsites and huts. The huts are super, super expensive and almost always require reservations. They cost as much as a fairly nice hotel.
I knew you had to go hut to hut, but you make it sound worse than I imagined. We are probably limited to day hiking anyway this year. I'm not sure the people we are going with are quite up for a backpack yet. If we go up during the middle of the week, we can use the cabin. That's probably what we will use as a base to be honest. We would prefer to go up there during the week as opposed to the weekend.
But I don't have to make reservations to do a mid week 22.5 mi 8 hour blast through there do I? I'm plenty capable of connecting multiple 20 mi days together carrying a 30 lb pack in the Sierra Nevada, so my cardio and experience levels are fine fyi.
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TradEddie
Trad climber
Philadelphia, PA
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Sep 16, 2014 - 09:35am PT
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There is so much great hiking in the Whites that it's hard to know where to start, but I have to recommend what's usually called the Franconia Ridge Traverse, 9 miles, 4000ft gain, great views.
http://www.summitpost.org/the-franconia-ridge-traverse/156248
Be prepared for weather you'd normally only associate with much higher altitudes, snow in July isn't unheard of, and high winds are almost guaranteed. Mt Jefferson via the Caps Ridge Trail is a good shorter hike, all of the views, weather and rock scrambling for much less effort. Both are still strenuous, not recommended for first time hikers. Mt Washington would be good if it wasn't for the crowds.
Again, don't underestimate the weather, hats, gloves, sweaters & raingear are a minimum at any time of year and if you're hiking alone, be equipped to spend the night below freezing if something happens. Once summer is over, those trails are wonderfully quiet midweek, but that's not so good if you get hurt.
You'll love NH.
TE
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Sep 16, 2014 - 09:42am PT
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Yer gonna dieeeeeeeeeeee
(Cathedral Ledge & Whitehorse for climbing. There's a new guidebook out: North Conway Rock, but only covers that area. The old Webster guide is old. Use MP)
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ClimbingOn
Trad climber
NY
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Sep 16, 2014 - 09:48am PT
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No, you do not need reservations to day-hike. The traverse is a lofty goal, for sure. Many do it every year but it is tough. I haven't done it myself but I've done multiple 20+ mile days in the Whites. My normal backpacking speed in the mountains is somewhere just above 3 MPH average, and I can hold that all day long. In the whites it was a major struggle to manage 2 MPH. They are some of the roughest, most demanding hiking. There are very few places one can simply stride. Not trying to turn you off your goal, just want you to have some idea what you're getting into.
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OldEric
Trad climber
Westboro, MA
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Sep 16, 2014 - 09:54am PT
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I have to point out a few things. While bashing the AMC is popular and sometimes justified there is a lot of misinformation here regarding the AMC "running" things. Most of the land is owned/managed by the USFS. The state has significant holdings in Franconia and Crawford Notches. The AMC actually owns very little real estate - Dartmouth, the Cog and the Autoroad all own more. The AMC does have a monopoly on the huts - they don't own them but operate under a permit from the USFS. It's easy enough to avoid the huts - nothing the OP said implied he wanted to use them - I wouldn't consider using the huts to be "backpacking".
You should start a rant about Baxter...
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Gooney
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Sep 16, 2014 - 10:11am PT
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My wife and I are from CO and did the same thing this time last year. We day hiked Mt. Lafayette and climbed the Standard Route on the slabs at Whitehorse Ledge (7 pitches or so). Both were super fun and are recommended.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2014 - 10:25am PT
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TradEddie - From all I've read, Mt. Washington can quickly become one of the most inhospitable places around. We will definitely be bring some gear to stay dry and warm in. Thanks!
Anita - Hey, thanks for the climbing tips. Very helpfull. And I know we're going to die, that's why I jamming as much in as I can now before it happens lol!!
Climbing on - I appreciate your candor. If I do it or not depends on weather, timing, and how I feel. Likelyhood of me attempting it is fairly low, but it could happen. Just trying to keep my options open. Giving it a try on totally unfamilar terrain is out though. I'd want to spend a little time feeling it out first.
Gooney - Thanks for the Mt. Lafayette and Standard Route recommendations. Much appreciated. That Whitehorse "slab" area is serious slab city! Sweeeet. Hmmmmmm....
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Edge
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Sep 16, 2014 - 10:50am PT
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For sport, Rumney is only about 45 min from Moultonboro and would be relatively quiet mid week. Hit up the Meadows and Parking Lot Wall for the most climbs in your wheelhouse. MP has adequate info.
For trad, Cannon is only an hour away, and although it has an alpine feel you could pick a good weather day and hit up ultra classics Whitney Gilman Ridge 5.6, Moby Grape 5.8, or Vertigo 5.9 A0. Across the Notch is Echo Crags and the free standing spire of the Eaglet (5.7?). Cathedral and Whitehorse are only about an hour and kept me busy for 35 years.
Also check out the New Durham area on MP. It was my local area and there are a ton of climbs, sport and trad, in a secluded setting. Longstack Precipice is highly recommended and will keep you plenty busy.
Enjoy your trip!
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steve shea
climber
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Sep 16, 2014 - 12:05pm PT
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Go to Zealand campgrounds on rte 302. You can base from there. AMC shuttles can be taken to Lafayette trail heads, Mt Washington trail heads or Crawford notch. Franconia Ridge has been mentioned. Go up the Falling Waters trail, cross the best part of the ridge(great bouldering on the ridge). From the summit of Lafayette take The Old Bridal Path down to your car. A great day hike. Another one easily accessible from Zealand is to go to the Cog Railway Base Station and go up the Ammonusuc Ravine trail to Lakes of the Clouds Hut, then over the summit of Washington to the Jewell Trail and back to your car. Or, from the hut do the crossover to Tuckerman's Ravine, descend to the Pinkham Notch base and grab a shuttle back to Zealand.
Here is the best part. there is nice granite cragging a mere 25 min walk from Zealand campground. Mt Oscar on MT Project and Sugarloaf. Trad, Sport and mixed, can be TR'd, especially from Sugarloaf. Beautiful NH granite, 5.7 to 5.12.
I grew up in Franconia. We go back often. These are some favorites. If you have a flyrod, the Ammonusuc river is fun fishing for stocker Rainbows or native Brookies. The west side of the Presidentials is a playground. There's lots more climbing but there are a few suggestions. BTW if you want to overnight hike, bivy. We used to do it no problem. You will not get caught. There are no backcountry patrols.
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Andy Middleton
Trad climber
Cow Hampshire
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Sep 16, 2014 - 12:12pm PT
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Ok here goes:
Moultonborough is on the southern edge of the Mountains, so you aren't that far away from lots of stuff. That being said, in two weeks the White mountains will start seeing crowds - big crowds. Mostly looking at leaves and hanging out in town but traffic can be a real problem, so plan accordingly. If you start early you should be ok, and i would avoid downtown North Conway at all costs if you can. From what you describe, you should be happy with Echo crag in Franconia Notch for single pitch and top roping(45 minutes from Moultonbourough) White Horse and Cathedral ledges in North Conway (45 minutes) have some multi-pitch options in your range - don't worry you can get there without going through town. For hiking there are a lot of options - depending on what you like. The white mountains are so cris-crossed with trails, it's easy to put loops together.
Special Bonus beta, If you like good beer: Shillings in Littleton (20 minutes north of Franconia Notch)
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wilbeer
Mountain climber
Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,
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Sep 16, 2014 - 02:51pm PT
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Great info up there,Steve is right ,just bivy.
But beware,there was snow atop Mt. Mansfield yesterday morning,above 4000 foot.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Sep 16, 2014 - 03:57pm PT
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Edge, you shure you are not back on the sauce? WG ain't no 5.6! 5.7 in the book and sandbag at that. much of it is pretty moderate but the Pipe pitch is solid 5.8 as is the standard flared sloper 5.7 finish. i fine the 5.9 finish on the right to be easier as it has good gear. going farther left might be sixish but that is in the rubbel zone.....
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Sep 16, 2014 - 04:44pm PT
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ah new hampshire in the fall...so good.
i tried to run the presidential traverse a few years ago. i had been trail running a bunch in california, but it kicked my ass. the trails in the east are human trails, while the ones in the west are built for horses. they are steep, rocky, and go up and down alot. that said they are interesting, beautiful, and not dusty, and there are lots of bail out points. i went mid week and really only saw folks on washington. this was pre me having a cell phone and my mom was my shuttle. i remember i was able to skip the last five peaks and still meet her at the same point on time (i used my mom worrying at the trail head as an excuse for skipping the last five...)
cathedral whitehorse is great. ice cream within biking distance of the crag. also really good water from a pump on your way. just a little weird that there is a road to the top of cathedral...one of the reasons whitehorse may be a better fit. also lots of fun easy to moderate slab climbing.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 17, 2014 - 04:21pm PT
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Thanks for all the suggestions so far. Probably I'll be limited to single pitch, but I have high hopes
Great to hear from you Edge. Hope all is going well. I'll definitely check all that out, although Patty is already saying to me no multipitch lol. I need some "peer" pressure to talk her into it. It's that husband/wife dynamic....thing.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Sep 18, 2014 - 05:03am PT
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I live in Wolfeboro, quite near where you will be based. For a day hike, you might try Mt. Major, which overlooks Lake Winnipesaukee. It has a granite dome, with great views. Mt. Chocorua also is popular, with great views.
As others have said, your about an hour or less from many great crags. I have never found the AMC a bother, and they certainly don't "control" the hiking trails.
PM me if you have more questions, or need a partner for a day of longer climbs, as I live close to where you will be based.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 18, 2014 - 07:43am PT
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The East is not like the West in terms of the management of open spaces (it is not wilderness). So you expectations born of familiarity with your western experiences will be sorely tested.
Know that "leaf watching" is very popular, and drives a huge commercial enterprise, so you are going at a time when many businesses make a bunch of money...
...that being said, it will be interesting to read your Trip Report on how you managed it.
My travel experience is that it is very easy to traverse the state North South, but getting between the major interstates East-West can test your patience. Maybe it's changed now, and probably much better in the non-winter months.
As for climbing, Cathedral, Whitehorse and Cannon are all great places, you'll recognize granite climbing. You could figure out what to climb by just going out and asking people... and being in a social mood. It won't be a "productive" outing, but you'll get on some great climbs that way.
I've tried the Presidential Traverse twice, but as a winter trip. No tourists to deal with, and camping next to the huts in the winter time isn't fraught with the same restrictions as during the more popular seasons, so I'm no help there. Suffice it to say that my winter education in the Presidential Range was a truly good one with horrendous weather.
I've recalled this before, but I'll do it again, when I hiked Mt. Washington with my wife Debbie the summer before we left New England for California, we went up the side of the mountain I would often ice climb, probably up the Lion's Head trail. It was a splendid July day. A guy and his Corgi were making the trip, and a few (but not many) others were too.
We got to the "Alpine Garden" marked so by a little wooden sign. I commented to her that the last time I remember seeing that sign it was under about 4 inches of clear ice. She also commented about the closeness of the line of cairns, "why so close?" I recalled times when you couldn't see the next one when feeling your way down in the dark after a day of ice climbing.
Beautiful place to go....
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dagibbs
Trad climber
Ottawa, Ontario
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Sep 18, 2014 - 08:18am PT
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For easier stuff in single-pitch, Rumney is probably the place to go. Mostly sport, though.
For easy multi-pitch trad, Whitehorse Ledge has got it, sounds well within your range, and is a great day-climb, with a an easy hiking trail back down again, too. Standard Route goes at about 5.5, with about 1100ft of climbing, and generally comfortable belays. You would probably want a 70m rope, though, as the last pitch is long.
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TradEddie
Trad climber
Philadelphia, PA
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Sep 18, 2014 - 05:16pm PT
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She also commented about the closeness of the line of cairns, "why so close?" I recalled times when you couldn't see the next one when feeling your way down in the dark
That experience is certainly not unique to Winter. I've experienced heavy snow on Mt. Washington on the week before Memorial Day, and sleet on Mt. Jefferson on 4th July, with visibility so bad that my wife would wait at one cairn and I'd wander till I could just make her out, hoping for the visibility to clear enough to find the next cairn. Despite those conditions, there were easily a dozen others crouched on the leeward side of the summit when we reached it. Back down in Lincoln, it'd been a nice 70F partially cloudy day. That's what makes it so great.
TE
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