Climbing shoes for Morton's Toe?

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Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 5, 2014 - 10:21am PT
Here's how my toes look:

Here's how my toes look in climbing shoes:

Anyone have Morton's Toe and find a shoe that fits it really well? With really tight shoes all of my toes are bent and I'm ok with that but when I look for a pair that's more comfortable where I want my toes pretty flat I either have one painful toe or really loose shoes.

Anyone? I know more than just the Statue of Liberty and I have this problem.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Sep 5, 2014 - 10:32am PT
Huh. Maybe I have Morton's Toe. After my first year or two of climbing and listening to the advice "make it as tight as possible" I said screw that and always wore comfortable relatively baggy shoes. I've never gone for the curled toe type of fit.

La Sportiva Mythos fit me well with toes flat.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Sep 5, 2014 - 10:45am PT
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2014 - 10:53am PT
Just got a pair of those in the mail drljefe, haven't got a chance to try them out so we'll see. They seem to be shaped for regular feet but maybe they'll stretch to fit


There are a few threads on this over on MP but they're old and not too helpful.
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Sep 5, 2014 - 11:09am PT
pretty much all la sportivas work for my and several friends long digits
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Sep 5, 2014 - 11:18am PT
Boreals
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Sep 5, 2014 - 11:53am PT
Dolomites were designed specifically for people with Morton's foot. As that's what Pat ze cat (Edlinger) had. To they still make Dolomites?
hagerty

Social climber
A Sandy Area South of a Salty Lake
Sep 5, 2014 - 11:58am PT
As mentioned by others, Boreal and La Sportiva are the two brands I've had the most success with. I have a high volume but very narrow foot, and the Morton's toe on the left foot just adds to the fitting difficulty. The lasts of the other brands are generally too wide or smash the tops of my toes. Two types of shoes I've never been able to wear are models with downturned toes (banana last) and anything made by Five Ten.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Sep 5, 2014 - 12:14pm PT
Well then, I guess this ends up like every other shoe recommendation thread!
See what works for you, your preferences for tightness and sensitivity.
Interested to see how the Mocs work for you Limpingcrab.
For reference, I wear a 10.5 street and buy my Mocs 9.5. And you can see my foot shape(if you dare) in my avatar pic.
They stretch like mad and mold to my foot, reaching the perf sweet spot after a while, maintaining sweetness for a good spell before getting floppy or wearing through.
Good luck!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2014 - 12:24pm PT
Thanks for the tips, I've never tried Boreal, I'll have to try those. But I love 5.10 rubber!

Looks like Dolomite makes outdoor shoes but not climbing shoes anymore.
tornado

climber
lawrence kansas
Sep 5, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
Evolv demorto was made for people with morton's toe. If you hunt around on the web you can find them on sale.
Srbphoto

climber
Kennewick wa
Sep 5, 2014 - 01:15pm PT
if you go with Boreals do what I do, wear them a bit and then resole with C4. If you don't go to long, you can do a 1/2 sole and they would probably still be cheaper than Miras.
Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic
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