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JacobSmith
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 25, 2014 - 03:55pm PT
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So I'm thinking about visiting Yosemite in October, starting out solo but hopefully meeting people, but I don't have a portaledge and those things are damn expensive. I've been solo-aiding around Washington so I've got most of the other necessary gear, but I get the impression that without a portaledge my wall-soloing options are going to be pretty slim. Is this correct? or are there good routes with enough natural ledges? Any input would be appreciated, thanks.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Aug 25, 2014 - 04:00pm PT
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We did walls before portaledges were invented. We slept on some pretty shitty ledges and we didn't sleep very well. It's about how much discomfort you wish to endure.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Aug 25, 2014 - 04:55pm PT
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And how much weather you can endure...
Tucker told me a great story about his ascent of Aurora where he sat in a puddle of freezing cold water waiting out a storm.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Aug 25, 2014 - 05:00pm PT
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Of course you can climb walls without a portaledge or a poop tube or alot of the crap that is essential these days. You won't even be the first to do it. Have fun and enjoy moving unencumbered.
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JacobSmith
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 25, 2014 - 05:08pm PT
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Yes, and people used to use hemp ropes and make their pitons in a hand forge in camp 4. I guess what I meant was, if I try to solo El Cap w/o a ledge will I be spending nights in my aiders? Or are small ledges fairly easy to find every 4-5 pitches?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Aug 25, 2014 - 05:31pm PT
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A $40 synthetic hammock can make a hanging belay a little less uncomfortable and if you get the hang of it and your system dialed it can be extremely comfortable. As well as being cheap they are also light and quick to set up. Down falls beig they don't have much shelter from storms and make cooking and taking dump a little harder.
Make sure you get the double wide.
Personally I've slept on the wall at least 20nights in mine although it's starting show some wear its going to come up another wall or two.
As nice as portaledges are for lounging they are completely unnessisary.
Climb fast, climb safe, have fun!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 25, 2014 - 05:40pm PT
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Stack the odds in your favor, beg, borrow or rent one if going up on el cap.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 25, 2014 - 06:04pm PT
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Get a portaledge and be a pussy or stand in your aiders all night and be a real man .....
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 25, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
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Portaledges are used primarily as party pads for smoking dope and swilling cheap ale.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 25, 2014 - 06:21pm PT
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Maybe it's time to get a guidebook or look at topos of some of the routes you want to do. The topo should tell you if ledge bivvies are available.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Aug 25, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
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You can ascend most of the Yosemite big wall formations without a ledge . . . certainly not all but more routes than you may realize.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
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Aug 25, 2014 - 06:53pm PT
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^^^ badass hammock, I vote for that!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Aug 25, 2014 - 06:58pm PT
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Start out on the Leaning Tower, at least you stand a chance of making it, and not bailing, with really great natural ledges at 4 and 10.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Aug 25, 2014 - 06:58pm PT
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Have you ever soloed 4-5 pitches in a day
Ya mon
In winter
Slept in a Forest hammock
Sort of slept
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Gooney
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Aug 25, 2014 - 07:32pm PT
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Bare minimum: west face of leaning tower and regular NW face route on Half Dome are fine without a ledge.
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Synchronicity
Trad climber
British Columbia, Canada
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Aug 26, 2014 - 12:36am PT
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I'd say donini has got 'er figured out
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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Aug 26, 2014 - 12:52am PT
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Get a portaledge and be a pussy or stand in your aiders all night and be a real man .....
What brand do you have?
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Aug 26, 2014 - 06:20am PT
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Just buy a second hand ledge.
When soloing, getting a good nights sleep is not an optional extra. Also, things often go slower than in theory so that 4 to 5 pitches a day might end up being 3. A lot of people plan on 2.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Aug 26, 2014 - 09:32am PT
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Many walls have nice ledges evenly spaced. Do some research.
Many have bad ledges unevenly spaced and as Werner indicated you can spend a night in slings anywhere.
I've had very few good nights on walls, a good nights sleep is a luxury and not essential to success.
...and yes, hammocks work also.
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