OT: Bolts in concrete

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Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 23, 2014 - 11:22am PT
I'm figuring that I can get some good advice on the following application:

I want to put multiple expansion bolt sleeves into my garage floor so I can bolt a surfboard shaping rack to the floor. Further, I would like to have the ability to remove the bolts/rack and put the bolts/rack back in place a few times/year.

I'm thinking a pure wedge sleeve isn't the best for this application. Or maybe it is?

The holes on the base of the rack accept 1/2" bolts.

I'm not sure what the best solution is for this situation and any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Aug 23, 2014 - 11:27am PT
How about just drilling holes into the concrete to accept a stud, and glue 'em in with Simpson (or similar) epoxy?

Edit: Oh....missed the part about being removable. Wouldn't want to be tripping over these studs. Sorry.
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Aug 23, 2014 - 11:28am PT
Just use a drop-in or Lag type anchor.

You don't need to go overboard. It's not for structural integrity, you're just holding a table in place so it doesn't slide around basically...right?

Edited to add a link.

http://www.confast.com/products/lag-shield-anchor.aspx

or two...

http://www.confast.com/products/drop-in-anchor.aspx
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
Aug 23, 2014 - 11:38am PT
Another option is building a portable shaping stand out of five gallon buckets.
Much more versitile.
http://surfboardshaping.weebly.com/shaping-stand.html

Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
Another option is building a portable shaping stand out of five gallon buckets. Much more versitile.

Yep, for the past ten years (in image, on right). My wife bought me the Foam EZ shaping rack with the Gravity Base for our anniversary (I owe her a back rub. I win.). Well, the Gravity Base, which is supposed to alleviate the need to mount the racks to the floor, raises the rack minimum height to a level just a bit too high for my liking. So I'm thinking about sending the Garvity Base back and mounting the rack flanges to the floor, but want them to be removable and movable to accommodate longer and shorter blanks.

Just use a drop-in or Lag type anchor. You don't need to go overboard. It's not for structural integrity, you're just holding a table in place so it doesn't slide around basically...right?

Yes and thank you for the links! In the image you can see one of the flanges. I'm thinking about putting in a bunch of anchors so I can re-position the racks for longer and shorter shapes. Of the two anchors you linked, which would you recommend for this application? I'll rent a hammer drill and a good bit. I suppose these anchors should be glued in, but I'm pretty sure surfboard lamination epoxy isn't the stuff to do this with. I guess everyone can tell I've never placed a bolt in my life. But I have clipped more than I'd like to admit to.

Thanks again!

Credit: Gunkie
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Aug 23, 2014 - 12:36pm PT
The drop in anchors are the only truly reusable ones that I know of. Very strong, fit a standard machine bolt. Usually have a wedge in the bottom, drop them in the hole and drive the wedge in with a punch that is usually supplied with the bolts. I have some in my garage slab for temporary anchors.

Just make sure the garage slab is thick enough (it will be unless your house is very old)and you don't hit a piece of rebar with the drill.
nah000

climber
canuckistan
Aug 23, 2014 - 12:46pm PT
haven't used them myself but hilti makes a lipped threaded drop in anchor [HDI-L] that should fit the bill.

you do, of course, have to buy their setting tool...

i'm guessing you've already thought of this, but another option is to permanently fix another piece of steel to the floor and then have multiple mounting points on that, that your stand can attach to...
Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
Aug 23, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
Well now,
A thread I know something about. I placed bolted anchors in my RV slab. I used the bolts/hangers to move my Airstream (man cave) around with comealongs. I used 5-piece and when done, removed the hanger/bolt and screwed a long allen stud into the cone left in the hole to keep dirt out. Just don't over torque or you will mess the threads in the cone. That works great for me.
Roger
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Aug 23, 2014 - 05:33pm PT
Of the two anchors you linked, which would you recommend for this application?

Just use the lag anchors. Cheap and strong. You can pick them up at any hardware store for less than a dollar. They use any standard lag bolt in whatever size you need. No tools required. When not in use I'd fill the holes with a plug (short lag bolt) to keep dirt out.

The Drop In anchors are a little bit stronger and use a machine bolt which can be purchased in a higher grade of steel or stainless if you need it. The drop in anchors can be purchased in stainless too but you don't need that unless you live really close to the beach or work with a lot of chemicals or something.

Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2014 - 05:57pm PT
Thanks for everyone's help! Going to the HW store tomorrow.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Aug 23, 2014 - 06:00pm PT
How 'bout a shot of your shapes?
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
Aug 24, 2014 - 01:26am PT
How about just throwing them in the corner & not worrying about it - there are just surfboards. But then I say that for everything.
Dingus McGee

Social climber
Laramie
Aug 24, 2014 - 05:44am PT
Salamanzier,

We concur. Drop in lag anchors are probably the easiest but with one re-occurring issue/problem. Some lag bolts are quite weak and will twist off easily before reaching torque leaviing a portion of it is stuck in the lag shield. I see McMaster Carr says of their lag bolts, "Hot-dipped galvanized steel conforms to ASTM A307 or SAE J429". Maybe you can get some quality controled bolts products from this company?
Peter

Trad climber
San Francisco
Aug 24, 2014 - 07:46am PT
Check out the GRK caliburn concrete screws. If you have a rotary hammer drill like a bosch bulldog and an impact driver they make drilling in concrete as easy as firing in sheetrock screws. Way better than tapcons, wedge anchors, etc. The caliburn XL goes in a 1/4 in hole and can be removed and reinserted multiple times. Worth their weight in gold.
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2014 - 07:41am PT
OK, got the shaping racks installed. Thanks for the great advice. The installation went pretty well and I'm psyched to shape a board on this new setup.

Anyway, I watched a bunch of YouTube videos on drilling the holes for the anchors. Not one of the videos mentioned drilling pilot holes. So my first four anchor hole drilling attempts walked all over the place. I had to open up the holes in the steel flange and had to even hack saw one hole open to the the bolts into the anchors.

So I go to the local tough guy HW store, not a Home Depot. Everyone in this place is covered with some type of dust and is wearing worn out overalls and some are wearing work gloves (and most have mustaches or at least significant facial hair). And this is on a Sunday morning. I sheepishly ask, while wearing surf trunks and shaved like Kelly Slater, "how do I drill precise 5/8" holes in concrete?" One of the guys asks, "did you drill pilot holes?" Of course I answered no and they break out in laughter. But they showed me the bit progression and even how to drill the hole straight up and down (there is a trick to that).

Got it done. The second rack is mounted perfectly in-line with my center line; the first one is off by about 3/8" inch. Not too bad.

Credit: Gunkie
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