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Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic |
Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 1, 2014 - 01:40am PT
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Hello everybody,
I am learning to rope solo and loving it. I'm still very new though and I really want to know my gear as much as my dick (even better), because if I'm superficial with it
MEGONNNADIE
so, now to the serious point.
I wrote to Rock Exotica already but as always they're slow as snails in getting back. I also hope in help from the community.
Here's my first email:
Hello,
I ordered a Silent Partner from you several months ago and I am really enjoing it.
Recently though I noticed that when the wheel spins fast (I sometimes like to spin it for the sake of watching it locking) it started to make a noise as some dust entered it.
IT STILL LOCKS, but that noise, I'm pretty sure it wasn't there at first.
So I looked at it more carefully and I noticed that one of its sides has a kind of rubber, black o-ring between the cylinder and the purple side; while the other side does not.
Now, the two questions I kindly pose to your attention are:
is that difference between the sides normal?
and, is it possible that sand or dust entered somehow, or is the mechanism totally sealed and dust-proof?
Here's their reply some days later:
The difference between the sides is normal. One side contains the locking mechanism, while the other does not. The seal that you see on one side is meant to prevent dust and debris from getting into the locking mechanism. From what you have described, it sound like some dust may have entered the side that does not have the seal. I would recommend using an air hose to try and blow it out as much as you can. Often times, the dust will work its way out over time with a couple of uses. If you notice any issues with the locking mechanism not working as it should, please discontinue use and send the unit to us immediately so that we can take a look.
This actually made me worry quite a bit.
First, if dust can actually enter, why not to seal the other side as well rather than allowing it?
But, this is what I actually asked back:
OK, thanks for your reply.
Should I take any precautions in using the air hose? Like, not blowing too close or too strong with it?
Also, it actually seems that it does not makes that sound anymore, so perhaps it just fixed itself. This makes me wondering, though: dust, if it can enter (and it can, as you're telling me) could over time wear the inner mechanism, small friction after small friction?
I still have to get a reply to that, so I'm also asking to you experts users since a long time.
I want to know for how long I can use it before I should retire it. I of course do a test of the locking mechanism before starting to lead, but you know, my grandfather was alive before he died. What I mean is that the idea that it locks down at the anchor and does not when I need it scares me as f*#k.
Backup knots, yeah. But still.
Thanks
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mine is 16 (?) yrs old. I only you use it a few times a year, it makes no funny noises and I trust. I back up like a demon and am too scared to fall much, though it has caught me within the last year.
Perhaps she who has taken her toys and gone home will add something to this.
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overwatch
climber
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Send it back...they will fix it or send you a new one. No big deal
You got a good answer from one of the more experienced users, jaybro
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Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2014 - 07:29am PT
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Well, it actually IS quite a big deal because I live in Italy and overseas shipping are costy and very slow.
I am more willing to better know the unit so to have expectations about long term usage and maintenance rather than this very case.
As you perhaps missed in the original post, probably the dust left the unit by itself already. What I want to know is in the long run how this dust entering and leaving it could affect it, and if at all.
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overwatch
climber
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No I did not miss it...sorry if my reply didn't meet your expectations
Blow it out as they suggested, don't use a compressor powered by a jet engine and await their reply
Oh yeah and try to keep it out of the dirt
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overwatch
climber
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I have arrived...an lol from locker!
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Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2014 - 04:39pm PT
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Well it sounds pretty simple indeed. I was wondering if any of you long time users experienced any behavior similar to this, how often, and if it ever affected 'em and how.
I'll post the reply from Rock Exotica (if I'll get any).
Antani
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Febs,
I use my Silent Partner quite often and am on my second one in about 14 years. As long as it locks up, you should be good. After a while, the spinning action is not as smooth. What I look for is when the wobble of the two plates becomes excessive. I think that happened after 12 years of use of the device. As other said, I back the thing up regularly and I do not fall on it.
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Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2014 - 05:09am PT
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Thanks climberdude!
When you replaced your first SP it still locked, you replaced it because the feed wasn't as smooth as when it was new. Did I get it right?
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overwatch
climber
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When I replaced my first one, the old kind that they anodized inside, it locked up so bad you couldn't move which I considered a fairly safe failure mode. My "new" one which is at least 10 plus years old, is still smooth as silk
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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I fall on my Silent Partner all the time. I highly reccomend it to everyone who climbs on it. You learn allot and it instills confidence in the device. Its made for it, go for it. The thing is rugged! I like to push it solo on hard sport routes, and the SP opens that door. But keep it out of the dirt.
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overwatch
climber
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Agreed, the thing works great
Are you a loop guy or a backpack guy? How do you rig your backup knots? rebelays?
If you don't mind the questions, I am always interested in the ways of others
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Myself, i usually only tie one back up knot and give myself about 30 feet of rope with it. I dont really think of it as a backup knot, its really to keep the weight of the rope off the silent partner so it feeds well. The SP will catch you when you fall unless you have something that may interfer with the device on your harness. I accept the fact that i will have to re-tie once i use the 30 feet, and may have to take a hang to do so. This method keeps all the crap and weight off of me and my harness, and makes the experience more enjoyable for me. Everyones different however, each to their own, but Ive tried the other variations and dont like carrying the full weight of the rope when i climb or wearing a backpack.
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overwatch
climber
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Thanks for the reply studly...same here. Former stzzo, yes. I keep it stacked in a rope bag
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Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 3, 2014 - 06:53am PT
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Yeah thanks everybody.
Of course I am doing everything to keep it off the dirt, but still some is gonna enter it. I'd love to know how much dirt and bumps [1] it can take before eventually start misbehaving.
[1] I guess, considering how bulky it is, I'm not the only one having it bang on the rock quite often despite trying not to.
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Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2014 - 02:06am PT
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Ok I got a reply from rock exotica.
In short: you can use whatever air to blow dust out with no problems.
Dust entering the opposite side of the locking mechanism won't affect the mechanism itself
The item is guaranteed for three years only after which THEY RECOMMEND YOU TO GET A NEW ONE!
Supertopo interface from mobile devices sucks big balls
Last comment is not from rock exotica.
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Yes, I replaced the device since the mechanism does not feed as smoothly, not because it no longer locks up. I still have the first SP and would use it in a pinch.
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