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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 28, 2014 - 05:28pm PT
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I've heard that it's highly featured granite...just about my fave venue. Mountain Project has 10 routes featured but the new guide lists 800.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Jul 28, 2014 - 06:49pm PT
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There is the published guide. There are other guidebooks that have been written but not published. There are topos passed in private. There are slabs, knobs, corners and even a few cracks. Lets go, I'll bring the guidebook and a binder full of notes and topos. The downside is that I suck as a climber and generally start falling off if it gets harder than 5.fun.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jul 28, 2014 - 07:29pm PT
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There are other guidebooks that have been written but not published
To add to that statement - it was printed and distributed amoung friends ;)
Just head out there - there is plenty of fun adventure climbing in some areas if you're into that sort of thing...
Alternatively there's lots of rap bolted sport stuff in areas.
The locals don't bite but the rattlers might try to.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 28, 2014 - 07:31pm PT
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susu might be able to help with a guide to some of the region...
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scaredycat
Trad climber
Berkeley,CA
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Jul 28, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
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What would Donini know about there is plenty of fun adventure climbing in some areas if you're into that sort of thing... ?
w.r.t. banquo: ^^^ 5.10a "hard to follow". I don't care, that's a proud looking pitch
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2014 - 08:47pm PT
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Thanks everyone....it's on my list for next June.
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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Jul 29, 2014 - 08:47am PT
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make sure you have some time to find stuff at shuteye, even with the new guide book, and one does not know the area, it takest time to find stuff, even for me who has been climbing at shuteye for over twenty years, going to a new place i have not climbed at, it's going to take time to find it, it's best to go to shuteye with a climber who's been there, happy climbing mike a.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jul 29, 2014 - 09:14am PT
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Next june!!!!
How about this fall?
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Jul 29, 2014 - 09:51am PT
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I just moved back to the Yosemite area (Oakhurst) and put the Shuteye bug in Jim's ear. Of course, its all new to me as well. Heard about it over the years from local Yosemite friends that have climbed there. Got a guide book and have been doing some bouldering and exploring trying to get a feel for the place. Have yet to tie on a rope. If work commitments this fall weren't in the way I would talk Jim into coming out in October (not that that would take much effort!). God, I hate to miss the fall in the Sierras.
Chappy
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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I'd be happy to give some input too. Must sees: High Eagle area, Gray Eagle area, 50 5.7s, and if not too hot out Chiquito and Voodoo plus Crocodile. There are more places to name, but this is a good start. I haven't climbed at Electric Eagle, yet, but it sure looks appealing. Worried about the forest fire raging too near the ridge now and what may happen with accessibility and its beautiful views, though, so we will see...
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Donini and Chappy, it would be cool to meet you guys and show you around. Anytime. The last couple of Junes have been perfect, but hopefully we get a lot of snow this winter and can't make it up there till late June. Yeah right, but I can hope.
Regards,
Justin Ross
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 1, 2014 - 07:49am PT
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Calendar full this fall but I'm a definte for next June.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Susan got it right, you got to move around. There is so much out there. Most people never make it past High Eagle. High Eagle is awesome but there is so much more. Great sport, great bouldering and so many great mixed routes. For the more adventurous it's hard to beat Gray. The left side face of Chiquito is amazing and the camp site on top is my vote for the best in the area. For hard sport, the Aerie and Electric. The Royal Garden on top of Queens Thrown has great bouldering with a hard to beat setting. If your lucky you will bump into Susan, John, Josh, Kev, Shawn and others, some of the nicest folks you could ever meet. Just make sure you camp several hundred yards away if you are like me and need your beauty rest.
But, as Susan mentioned, a major fire is at the door step of many of the eastern Shuteye crags and could have a major impact in many was. The amount of fuel sitting there with one of the driest years ever has me very concerned. Keeping my fingers crossed.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Jeff,
Thanks for adding the 1 in the picture - might have been more like 1:17 ;)
Look at Mucci with the long hair!
kev
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Aww, shucks factor high! Likewise, Jeff!
Donini/Chappy - pm anytime.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Mucci hippy sighting!
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Wonder if we all headed to the pools that day...
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