Need help rock climbing in Yosemite

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Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic
jcs24

Trad climber
Downers Grove
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 23, 2014 - 04:43pm PT
My family and I (4 of us) will be in Yosemite first week of August and need some climbing help on August 7th. We have a Valley campsite reserved for the 6th and would be happy to share the space (we have room for two friends and one additional vehicle). We have done some climbing in the past, but are not confident enough to lead climb in Yosemite and don't have all the necessary trad climbing gear. We are especially interested in climbing something easy (5.6 or 5.7) at the base of El Cap. Anybody up for a free campsite in the middle of peak season in exchange for climbing with us for a few hours on August 7th? Or know who we should reach out to? Happy to work out details individually. Let me know if interested.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 23, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
http://www.yosemitepark.com/rock-climbing-guides.aspx

or make friends with somebody at your local gym?

Sharing a free campsite in August is not that appealing,
unless someone is very psyched to offer free guiding for you.
jcs24

Trad climber
Downers Grove
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2014 - 09:54pm PT
Good advice, but as I am admittedly getting a late start on this, the official guide service is completely booked. Plus they don't like that one of my kids is only 9 (which I don't fault them for, but she is probably the best climber of the bunch). Anyway, I'm perfectly willing to pay for some help, just wasn't sure if it was kosher to mention that here. That's why I was being coy about "working out the details" offline. But I am now throwing caution to the wind :) So again, now that my intentions are clear and knowing official channels are closed to me, any suggestions? Thanks all!
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Jul 23, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
Base of El Cap in August is an oven, unless you get out there early. Maybe Glacier Point Apron would be better, if the rockfall situation is under control (?)
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
Jul 23, 2014 - 10:10pm PT
There really isn't a whole lot at the base of el cap that fits your requirements. Here's a quick list from Clint's excel sheet of climbs.

La Cosita is probably not the kind of 5.7 you want. Pine Line is perfect, but short and probably only good in the morning (west facing). The Footstool, I know nothing about, but maybe you can entice the kids with the alcove swing while you're there.

833. Delectable Pinnacle - Right Side 5.7
844. La Cosita - Left 5.7
869. Pine Line 5.7 **
893. The Footstool - Right Side 5.4 R *
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 23, 2014 - 11:39pm PT
There's also:
 Delectable Pinnacle - Left Side 5.3 *
 Salathe' Wall p1 halfway 5.6

When we took our kids to climb at the base of El Cap,
I just climbed partway up the 3rd class right side approach to the Nose
and set up a toprope anchor.
(Last time I climbed that, there were a couple of loose blocks, so be careful if you go there).

It will probably be quite hot, so use the shade wisely.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Jul 24, 2014 - 12:02am PT
You are pretty-much screwed at this point.
If you still want to come out looking not too bad -
do Snake Dike.
jcs24

Trad climber
Downers Grove
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2014 - 12:31pm PT
Awesome suggestions all. Thanks much!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 24, 2014 - 12:38pm PT
I'd take Footstool, Right off the list... while the summit is a great place, having your whole family under NA Wall maybe isn't the greatest idea for 1 pitch. The climbing is trickier than the "R" gives it credit, and there is some debate about the 5.4 rating.

Not only that, but it gets relatively early Sun, and the slick rock is even slicker in the heat.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
Jul 24, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
I'm sure the folks lining up for The Nose wouldn't mind a group top roping on Pine Line...

You think there aren't groups toproping pine line every day?

I have the book, but I'm not motivated to get up, grab it off the shelf, and browse it: "Yosemite Top Ropes" (or something like that) may have some ideas. IIRC, it includes info on whether or not the route can be hiked up (vs lead up).

This is a great book. Be very aware that this book is different from the Supertopo sport climbs and top ropes guidebook which was the worst purchase I've ever made outside of brothels in Nevada. What makes this book so good is that it gives easy to read icons for how safe the base is, how easy it is to reach the top for anchor setting, whether the climbjng is steep or slabby and the sun direction of the crag. Very easy to figure a low-stress, high-fun day with the kids.

Here's the link to the Amazon page for the book: http://www.amazon.com/Yosemite-Topropes-Rob-Floyd/dp/189254007X/ref=cm_sw_em_r_awd_siw0tb0S5FTTN_tt
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Jul 24, 2014 - 12:42pm PT
With family, stay away from The Apron or El Cap base. (Except take the kids to the base of the Nose, have them touch the wall and look up.)

As a family climber, I successfully took the kids to the Swan Slab area and set up top rope climbs or to Manure Pile for the first 60 feet of After Six.

We would often have a cheap home-made dinner at the El Cap picnic area after enjoying the climbing on Manure Pile. (Ranger Rock)

Have fun!
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