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Messages 1 - 11 of total 11 in this topic |
jcs24
Trad climber
Downers Grove
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 23, 2014 - 04:43pm PT
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My family and I (4 of us) will be in Yosemite first week of August and need some climbing help on August 7th. We have a Valley campsite reserved for the 6th and would be happy to share the space (we have room for two friends and one additional vehicle). We have done some climbing in the past, but are not confident enough to lead climb in Yosemite and don't have all the necessary trad climbing gear. We are especially interested in climbing something easy (5.6 or 5.7) at the base of El Cap. Anybody up for a free campsite in the middle of peak season in exchange for climbing with us for a few hours on August 7th? Or know who we should reach out to? Happy to work out details individually. Let me know if interested.
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jcs24
Trad climber
Downers Grove
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2014 - 09:54pm PT
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Good advice, but as I am admittedly getting a late start on this, the official guide service is completely booked. Plus they don't like that one of my kids is only 9 (which I don't fault them for, but she is probably the best climber of the bunch). Anyway, I'm perfectly willing to pay for some help, just wasn't sure if it was kosher to mention that here. That's why I was being coy about "working out the details" offline. But I am now throwing caution to the wind :) So again, now that my intentions are clear and knowing official channels are closed to me, any suggestions? Thanks all!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jul 23, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
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Base of El Cap in August is an oven, unless you get out there early. Maybe Glacier Point Apron would be better, if the rockfall situation is under control (?)
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Jul 23, 2014 - 10:10pm PT
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There really isn't a whole lot at the base of el cap that fits your requirements. Here's a quick list from Clint's excel sheet of climbs.
La Cosita is probably not the kind of 5.7 you want. Pine Line is perfect, but short and probably only good in the morning (west facing). The Footstool, I know nothing about, but maybe you can entice the kids with the alcove swing while you're there.
833. Delectable Pinnacle - Right Side 5.7
844. La Cosita - Left 5.7
869. Pine Line 5.7 **
893. The Footstool - Right Side 5.4 R *
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Jul 24, 2014 - 12:02am PT
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You are pretty-much screwed at this point.
If you still want to come out looking not too bad -
do Snake Dike.
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jcs24
Trad climber
Downers Grove
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2014 - 12:31pm PT
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Awesome suggestions all. Thanks much!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 24, 2014 - 12:38pm PT
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I'd take Footstool, Right off the list... while the summit is a great place, having your whole family under NA Wall maybe isn't the greatest idea for 1 pitch. The climbing is trickier than the "R" gives it credit, and there is some debate about the 5.4 rating.
Not only that, but it gets relatively early Sun, and the slick rock is even slicker in the heat.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Jul 24, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
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I'm sure the folks lining up for The Nose wouldn't mind a group top roping on Pine Line...
You think there aren't groups toproping pine line every day?
I have the book, but I'm not motivated to get up, grab it off the shelf, and browse it: "Yosemite Top Ropes" (or something like that) may have some ideas. IIRC, it includes info on whether or not the route can be hiked up (vs lead up).
This is a great book. Be very aware that this book is different from the Supertopo sport climbs and top ropes guidebook which was the worst purchase I've ever made outside of brothels in Nevada. What makes this book so good is that it gives easy to read icons for how safe the base is, how easy it is to reach the top for anchor setting, whether the climbjng is steep or slabby and the sun direction of the crag. Very easy to figure a low-stress, high-fun day with the kids.
Here's the link to the Amazon page for the book: http://www.amazon.com/Yosemite-Topropes-Rob-Floyd/dp/189254007X/ref=cm_sw_em_r_awd_siw0tb0S5FTTN_tt
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Jul 24, 2014 - 12:42pm PT
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With family, stay away from The Apron or El Cap base. (Except take the kids to the base of the Nose, have them touch the wall and look up.)
As a family climber, I successfully took the kids to the Swan Slab area and set up top rope climbs or to Manure Pile for the first 60 feet of After Six.
We would often have a cheap home-made dinner at the El Cap picnic area after enjoying the climbing on Manure Pile. (Ranger Rock)
Have fun!
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