Historic/Badass Yosemite Bigwall Bolt Hangers/bolts for Sale

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Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 3, 2014 - 03:58pm PT
Check it out:

http://mountainproject.com/v/historicbadass-yosemite-bigwall-bolt-hangers-for-salechoinard-robbinsfrost-dolt/109181676
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jul 3, 2014 - 05:58pm PT
Historic, maybe, but bolts are not "badass" in my view.

#1 - Yvon Choinard stamped homemade hanger with a sleeve/nail style bolt(only nail exists in the back of the hanger. This mega classic piece is from one of America's leading environmentalists(founder of Patagonia). From Chouinard/Herbert route on the Sentinel.
When did you take this one off of Sentinel?
There was a nice one there when I did the climb in 2008,
and we left it in place.
Elmar Stefke had already replaced all the relevant bolts years before that.

Finally, given that you were kicked out of ASCA for powerbolting,
it's not too cool that you state you and your partners have replaced over 2000 bolts in Yosemite.
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
Hi Clint,

Thanks for your feedback.

I think you're confused about my rebolting efforts - my partners and I have replaced over 2000 bolts on Yosemite Bigwalls. True a couple hundred of those were early on when Chris Mac and I started the ASCA, but the early ASCA was not some cake walk - we put a bunch of our own money into buying bolts and hangers even then. The last 1500 or so bolts I've been a part of replacing were on my own time, and with my own money. I do it because I love it.

Woot!
Erik
erik@yosemitebigwall.com
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2014 - 11:41am PT
Thanks for your interest gang. I've added some more hardware, and will continue to add more as long as I'm receiving emails about them. Check out these super cool piton-bolt-hangers:

http://mountainproject.com/v/historicbadass-yosemite-bigwall-bolt-hangers-for-salechouinard-robbinsfrost-dolt/109181676#a_109184663
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jul 4, 2014 - 11:45am PT
Oh boy...
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Jul 4, 2014 - 11:48am PT
Erik,

Chris McNamara traded me a lot of his old pulled hangers from the walls of Yosemite about 12 years ago. I will gladly accept any items you want to preserve for the Karabin Museum. What do you want for these mangled rusty gems?
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2014 - 08:53pm PT
Hi Marty,

Thank you for your interest. I have a feeling you have many of these same hangers you already have.

I will be posting more hangers/bolts in the coming days, as there continues to be interest.

Thanks,
Erik
erik@yosemitebigwall.com
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2014 - 03:08pm PT
I added a bunch more stuff - a little something for everyone. I have a lot more than what is shown too.
Roger Brown

climber
Oceano, California
Jul 6, 2014 - 07:17am PT
Good call Clint. For what it is worth, the ASCA only provides bolt replacers with bolts, hangers, drill bits, and patch material. Who bought those thousands of feet of rope we fix? Hammers, drill holders, bolt pullers, and all that trick stuff we use to get the job done? I can't imagine the amount you spend on gas alone to drive all the way over here any and every time I ask for help. Most seasons that means almost every weekend for months. Yea Eric, we all spend our own money.
Roger Brown
ASCA bolt replacer.
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Jul 6, 2014 - 09:34am PT
Just donate it to Ken Yager museum because it's the right thing to do. Flaunting this stuff as "for sale" makes you seem like a bigger D#@&%e than you already are.
JakeW

Big Wall climber
CA
Jul 6, 2014 - 02:46pm PT
I think Klaus speaks the thoughts of many.

This stuff is either trash or historic, and if it's thought to be historic it should belong to the community. Ken may have enough bolts and hangers for any displays, but if these are sold, the money(or most of it) should be donated to the museum…which, so far as I know, still doesn't have a permanent locale in yosemite even after Ken's 22 years of effort (I may be off on the years of effort but I think that's what he told me the other day).

Ken currently has some stuff on display in the bay area. I believe at the California Historical Society until next January.

Thanks for all the helpful bolt replacement you've done Erik. I enjoy the safety of most of the bolts you've placed, but could do without the unnecessary ones and extras.
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2014 - 03:42pm PT
Wow, thanks for the responses guys.

Seems like a lot of folks have ideas about what should be done with these bolts, kinda like how a lot of folks have a bunch of ideas about how bolts should be replaced.

My advice: Go for it! There are still so many super classic old bolts on Yosemite bigwalls - go replace them and donate the old stuff to the museum. Heck, drag Ken up there with you - bout time he got back on the big stone!

Literally only a handful of the over 500 bigwall routes in Yosemite have all modern hardware - the majority are still covered with this stuff. So don't think you missed the golden age, or 'if it was me I'd do it differently'. Go for it! Do it the way you want! I'll be climbing behind you clipping the new bolts and smiling ;)

If this thread makes people take up bigwall climbing, and bigwall bolt replacement - that would make me more happy than someone offering me big bucks for this stuff. Climb on!

Thanks for the bump!
Erik
erik@yosemitebigwall.com
JakeW

Big Wall climber
CA
Jul 6, 2014 - 04:11pm PT
I guess maybe folks, including myself, are being slightly too indirect. You've interpreted some posts as "if it was me I'd do it differently", when a more accurate interpretation would be "I don't like what you're doing, I think you should do something different" Doing things publicly opens you to criticism and knowing how people feel is useful in planning your actions. But no worries, I'm not feeling super extreme, we all have to survive financially in the modern world and every "job" has its ethical debates, including most/all the ones I've ever had. I'm just old school and look for work when I'm having financial difficulties and want to earn money. I know I miss out on all sorts of modern creative ways of getting $ more enjoyably and easily.

jstan

climber
Jul 6, 2014 - 05:23pm PT
If it is OK of a person, unilaterally, to strip out old historic hardware and then make a buck off it

why is it not alright for someone to strip out new hardware and resell that?

If you tested the old stuff to make a decision as to whether it needed to be taken out, that would be one thing. But you simply assume you are the ultimate arbiter.

Anyone can do that.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jul 6, 2014 - 06:40pm PT
Discretion would be wise when removing historic pro. The protection belonged to the person placing it. Now it belongs to the climbing community. In my not so humble opinion. Return historic pieces to the original owner, or give it to the archives to be preserved for history. Photographs documenting location prior to removal would be nice. Private collection may be a good avenue to acquire classic pieces on the market.

Just make sure to will collections to the community when you croak.
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2014 - 07:51pm PT
Hi JakeW(Jake Whittaker long time Yosemite climber and former Yosemite climbing ranger),

I totally understand that you feel un-empowered regarding aging hardware on Yosemite bigwall climbs. But I don't understand while you feel that way? After all, aging hardware at climbing areas is traditionally updated by locals like you.

You know where there are tons of these old bolts. If you'd like to go replace them, and do something different with the old ones from what I'm doing with them - go for it! In my experience, folks will appreciate your service when they get to a belay with new bolts.

You've been around a long time - I hope this motivates you to go replace some old bigwall bolts, haha!

Regards,
Erik Sloan
erik@yosemitebigwall.com
Matt's

climber
Jul 6, 2014 - 07:58pm PT
Erik-- it sounds like you want to defray some your rebolting costs.

Some ideas
1) crowd-funding to pay to rebolt specific routes?
2) mechanism for people to retroactively pay for routes you have rebolted?

I think that trying to sell the stuff you pulled off the wall leaves a bad taste in most people's mouth.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Jul 6, 2014 - 11:24pm PT
3) How bout a way to make him pay for the routes he has retrobolted.
JakeW

Big Wall climber
CA
Jul 7, 2014 - 03:27am PT
I've replaced a lot of bolts dude. I did what i wanted with the old ones...nuthin. They fell off the cliff, poofed from my car or house, or are sitting in the bottom of my gear bins. I've thought of rounding them up and giving them to someone like Ken, but I'm scatterbrained and haven't got around to it.

Im not jealous of your rusty hardware collection or retrobolting skills. I just said i don't like you selling supposed historic stuff you collected while doing supposed community service, for your personal gain. It just seems lame.

When i saw your post it was so classicly ridiculous. Like advertising cans of wild trout on a catch and release flyfishing forum (sorry i cant come up with a better analogy, but there probably is one). Apparently you don't admit to seeing the irony in trying to sell something for its historic significance to a bunch of people who probably think such things should be in a museum. Its like ransoming hostages. I don't personally feel that strongly about it in the case of old bolts and hangers.

Sometimes your posts just seem like you're trying to be as dorkily agitating as possible. Everyone is free to do whatever they want, but most people try not to publicly do things their audience doesn't like. I don't know you that well but based on your accomplishments and our few interactions I think you're too sharp to be completely oblivious to this situation.

Well thanks for the entertainment while i lay around recovering from a cold. This ought to motivate me to not look at supertopo again for quite some time...
couchmaster

climber
Jul 7, 2014 - 06:08am PT


jakew said:
"Apparently you don't admit to seeing the irony in trying to sell something for its historic significance to a bunch of people who probably think such things should be in a museum. Its like ransoming hostages."

Ouch. That struck. Whats the solution then?
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