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Messages 1 - 20 of total 67 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Jun 21, 2014 - 07:52pm PT
Paint the boards too look like books, and pretend you have a library LMAO!
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jun 21, 2014 - 08:07pm PT
You are going to be able to jam expanding flakes like nobody's business.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jun 21, 2014 - 08:09pm PT
Are any studs going to mount it?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jun 21, 2014 - 08:23pm PT
If I wanted to build a "crack machine" I'd hunt around for some thin, like 3/8th to 3/4 inch, granite flakes, like those you see strewn around boulders after a real hot wildfire, and I'd glue them with construction cement to the wood structure. I'm thinking flakes about 8 or 10 inches square laid like tiles and grouted.

It might be heavy, but wood sucks for hand jamming.

Done well I think it would work well and feel like real rock since it is.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 21, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
Finger locks in/or a pine box!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Jun 21, 2014 - 09:10pm PT
I have an overhanging hand crack in the garage and just left it plain wood. I have to stay chalked up and at first I had to place something to stand on but now I can hang.

I'd vote just stand on something, as long as your hands are maxed out you'll get the strength and it's all the same, IMHO

If you find another alternative that works great please share, I'd be curious. And if you ever figure out a way to hang from loose fingers with any sort of texture/technique/magic I want your autograph
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Jun 21, 2014 - 09:15pm PT
get some 8x 11 sheets of 80 weight sandpaper and glue them to the wood.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Jun 21, 2014 - 09:20pm PT
Sandstone is probably around 150-180 grit.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Jun 21, 2014 - 09:26pm PT
i was thinkin grainy granite..;-)
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Jun 21, 2014 - 09:32pm PT
Go to a granite counter shop and ask for remnants. They will give you as many sink cut outs as you want..

Use the bottom side that has been unpolished. For rougher texture get it sandblasted.
Travis Haussener

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Jun 21, 2014 - 10:30pm PT
Is this mounted for pull ups? Cause getting to that point takes(took) a lot of practice even for a handjam let alone fingers. My suggestion, which is a little off topic...is to just put it on the ground and add weight to it and pick it up via a jam (fingers, hands, whatever just do sets of 5/10/15) this helps getting to the point of eventually doing pull ups. Then the slipping issue shouldn't be an issue. But to answer the question tape and chalk does help at least for me.

Travis
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Jun 21, 2014 - 10:31pm PT
I wonder how some thick tight rubber gloves might work

Are ya working out or playing doctor?

I made a wood crack machine 25 years back and coated it with a bondo/resin mixed with the finest sand I could buy. They use a simpler product at the local gym. I will ask again what it is.
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
Jun 21, 2014 - 11:15pm PT
I used a deck paint with sand in it on my ow and chimney training devices. Problem with this is it's too hard on the skin. Pretty much have to tape up every time or there will be blood!

I also have several adjustable cracks that were also too smooth, just like what you are experiencing. I took a screw or large nail and clamped it in a vicegrip. Then I scored the wood as deeply as I could. I used a cross hatched pattern. Then I used some kind of scraper to take off any splinters. Works great. Still kinda slippery but much better.

Good luck.

Wes
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jun 21, 2014 - 11:24pm PT
What do u need a crack machine for, I thought u got married??


schwortz

Social climber
"close to everything = not at anything", ca
Jun 22, 2014 - 01:08am PT
skateboard grip tape on the palm surface only. works great.
perswig

climber
Jun 22, 2014 - 04:01am PT
What do u need a crack machine for, I thought u got married??

Yeah, you'd think that'd be painful enough, without all this crack nonsense...





(chuckle)
Dale
Naitch

climber
Dark side of the moon via the stairway to heaven
Jun 22, 2014 - 04:08am PT
We use 180-220 grit self-adhesive sandpaper for our grips and it works great. We offer finer and courser also but find the 180-220 range to be the best all around. Deck tape will tear your hands up if you do much training on it.

I would think the deck paint to be one of the better options. I've also heard of some gyms starting to go with textured truck-bed coating.

We have a product in development now (The CrackRack) that will be an adjustable crack from fingers to OW and the ability to add in or out flare. Also offers adjustable full-hand sloper, variable depth crimp, pockets, pinches and will mount regular holds should the user want them. It's a ways from production yet but will post photos when we get things fine tuned.
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Jun 22, 2014 - 10:17am PT
I've been dreaming about building one of these. I like the OP concept for efficiency but it doesn't seem big enough to allow for practice reaching for the next jam. Post up more crack machines!!!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jun 22, 2014 - 10:40am PT
Credit: mike m
in my woody I built a nice hand crack. I lined it with that fake brick plywood type substance.
Credit: mike m
it is not perfect but it seems to have a really good texture and it's a light material. It also shapes to whatever form you're putting it on. I have it on some slightly bent boards and make a nice flaring hand crack.
Credit: mike m
It is also fairly cheap. I dremaled the edges and it does pretty good. It does burn your hands on the back a little but much better texture than wood or grip tape.
Credit: mike m
overwatch

climber
Jun 22, 2014 - 10:46am PT
Mike M awesome gym. Is that at your house? So cool.
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