Bolt missing on Sundance (get out yer popcorn...)

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GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Original Post - May 23, 2014 - 05:06pm PT
A little bird told me the bolt that replaced the piton on the second pitch (2nd bolt) ~15 years ago has been pulled and there's no pro for that move.

Just FYI if you want to get on it, might be a ledge fall from ~10-15 feet up.


http://www.mountainproject.com/v/sundance/105788132
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
May 23, 2014 - 05:29pm PT
It's like 5.9.

Harden up!

;)

Moose
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
Maybe it fell out?

This seems most likely.
T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
May 24, 2014 - 05:13am PT
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
May 24, 2014 - 06:40am PT
dude never brushed out the hole... and it's right next to a crack....
Mark Force

Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
May 24, 2014 - 10:20am PT
Who's the a$&hole who drilled that bolt right next to a perfect crack? Somebody needs to be slapped.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2014 - 11:39am PT
Who's the a$&hole who drilled that bolt right next to a perfect crack? Somebody needs to be slapped.


The bolt replaced a pin in a seam, and not a very good one, years ago. I think it was Clark? It's not a perfect crack, you should probably know what you are talking about before spewing ;) There are many routes in Idyllwild that have had old pins replaced by bolts, i.e. the crux of Sword of Damoclese. If that doesn't sit right and you'd rather pin after pin be replaced until there is a scar, you don't understand clean climbing... some routes like etude opened up enough for gear but the other routes had no other protection and see high traffic.


Just my opinions, however, and I won't be adding or removing fixed protection any time in the future. Not my thing. I like to at least be updated and I'll happily climb the route either way :)
WillieW

Trad climber
Hemet ca
May 25, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
I climbed the route about a month ago and the bolt was there but the hanger was gone, so pretty sure it didn't fall out. More likely some proud ass took it upon them selves to remove the hanger that been there for 10 years.
x15x15

climber
May 25, 2014 - 09:17pm PT
hey willie. you around? whats your schedule like these days. maybe one day we can climb together...
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
May 25, 2014 - 09:47pm PT
Maybe it needs a 'Surprise' bolt.
WillieW

Trad climber
Hemet ca
May 26, 2014 - 01:22pm PT
X15x15 Im heading up to north to do some work on thursday for about a week, then I'm off to Tuolumne till August. Shoot me an email if you make it to Tuolumne this summer 19wmw88 at gmail dot com.
Damn this looks high

Trad climber
Temecula, CA
Jun 5, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
I just hate the fact that some as#@&%e gets to appoint himself arbiter of what is acceptable in climbing.

ClIMBING IS NOT A GAME. It's life and death.

When you chop a bolt that other climbers expect to be there--either because it's on the topo or because it's been there for a long time--you endanger their lives. And for what? Your f*#ked up 'ethics'?
Psilocyborg

climber
Jun 5, 2014 - 04:06pm PT
wow that was dramatic.

Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Jun 5, 2014 - 05:09pm PT
That pin wasn't there for many years, someone took it upon themselves to add fixed pro to an existing Climb. The fact that the pin/bolt is gone means you'll need to Climb Sun Dance as intended by the Climbers that put the Route up. . . df
scrubbing bubbles

Social climber
Uranus
Jun 5, 2014 - 08:22pm PT
Yeah, dean, so true...don't climb Sundance if you cant deal with it, wait an extra year if you have to, then you won't fly into the sky!
ruppell

climber
Jun 5, 2014 - 08:59pm PT
ClIMBING IS NOT A GAME. It's life and death.

LOL. What? Climbing is a game. Both physical and mental. If you deck and die, you loose. That's the reason every book about climbing, every piece of gear sold, has these words:

CLIMBING IS AN INHERENTLY DANGEROUS SPORT.

If some climb has a bolt chopped, removed nicely by rockfall , or damaged from years of neglect, it's up to you to decide to push on or puss out. How hard is that to understand? It's up to you the climber. If you die it's on you. If you live it's on you. Most of us live. Is that because of big balls or good judgement? If you don't know I'd bet you have neither.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 5, 2014 - 09:02pm PT
Why climb it, it's a slab.....life is short, better things to do. Did it in the 70's...once is enough.

edit: It was kind of fun though.

edit 2: I only do slabs once because they serve up too much fright for the amount of exercise they deliver.
scrubbing bubbles

Social climber
Uranus
Jun 5, 2014 - 09:16pm PT
some people for whatever reasons may be limited to climbing at Idyllwild, maybe Idyllwild and Josh. Sundance to them might be a worthy goal.
The user formerly known as stzzo

climber
Sneaking up behind you
Jun 5, 2014 - 09:31pm PT
It's not a perfect crack, you should probably know what you are talking about before spewing ;)

That crack really doesn't take pro? I'm so disillusioned.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2014 - 12:15pm PT
Why climb it, it's a slab.....life is short, better things to do.

Donini wins the thread
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