Best bolted Cracks in CA

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Epic Magruff the bounty hunter

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 24, 2014 - 02:25am PT
bolted crack
bolted crack
Credit: Epic Magruff the bounty hunter
This crack is very convenient, I would like to thank the first accentionist for placing these bolts. thank you
enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO
Mar 24, 2014 - 02:28am PT
O.R.G.asam

From MountainProject
From MountainProject
Credit: enjoimx
Bullwinkle

Boulder climber
Mar 24, 2014 - 02:28am PT
Double Cross is another Excellent Bolted Crack. . .
Epic Magruff the bounty hunter

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 02:33am PT
Bolted crack, perma draws
Bolted crack, perma draws
Credit: Epic Magruff the bounty hunter

The perma draws on the lower half of the route are genius. It makes it so much easier to clean the route, this route is futuristic.
enjoimx

Trad climber
SLO
Mar 24, 2014 - 02:40am PT
cant tell if you are trolling but there really are some cool bolted cracks in CA. Whether they should be bolted or not is a different topic.

Cookie Monster

Supertopo
Supertopo
Credit: enjoimx
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Mar 24, 2014 - 08:36am PT
^ if you consider yourself a straight male and see the bolts before the cleavage, you seriously need to reevaluate your priorities.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Mar 24, 2014 - 09:48am PT
Nice,, chain draws on a crack.. Could it possible get any more WANKER?

Keep it up folks,, the bolting bans will have all the fuel they need. And RIGHTLY so might i add. WTF is the matter with climbers THESE DAYS. We even have chain draws on I 80 at the Bowman area.. CHOP IT ALL.
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Mar 24, 2014 - 09:54am PT


I am in total support of bolting ALL cracks...


Draws are so much cheaper than cams...



;-)
MikeL

Trad climber
SANTA CLARA, CA
Mar 24, 2014 - 09:58am PT
Why?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Mar 24, 2014 - 10:09am PT
What a laugh,, that whole passive protection crud we engaged in back in the early 70s,, to "preserve the rock"...A sickening SAD laugh....
OR

Trad climber
Mar 24, 2014 - 10:13am PT
Trollicious
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Mar 24, 2014 - 10:43am PT
I just went to Bowman and you're right about there being some perma (2 or 3) draws there, Rong. You are highly wrong that it is off I 80. It is 13.5 miles down a dirt road off the 20... Next to a dam, concrete slabs, and rebar pounded into the rock and left over from the construction. Sling the rebar, dude!
go1dens4

Trad climber
Melbourne, FL
Mar 24, 2014 - 10:46am PT
I am in favor of chopping all bolts from cracks...
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Mar 24, 2014 - 11:03am PT
Chapel Wall or Public Sanitation.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Mar 24, 2014 - 11:13am PT
That crack doesn't exactly look "natural" either
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 24, 2014 - 12:45pm PT
Hardley Wallbanger and Whacked Scenario at ORG!

SUPER FUN.

One is thin other one is wide.



From MP
Bad Climber

climber
Mar 24, 2014 - 12:46pm PT
Yeah, looks like a quarry.

BAd
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Mar 24, 2014 - 12:52pm PT
Final Cut at Public Sanitation Wall, Wheat Thin Cookie Cliff, Ginsu Flake at Hidden Wall Cal Domes to name a few.
Epic Magruff the bounty hunter

Social climber
Oakland, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2014 - 01:06pm PT
perma draw crack
perma draw crack
Credit: Epic Magruff the bounty hunter

For some reason this crack isn't that deep, but it sure is fun.

Even though it has perma draws its still plenty spicy. Check out that runout between the second and third draws! Im still trying to pink point this route.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Mar 24, 2014 - 01:26pm PT
A troll thread perhaps, but an interesting issue that is going to become more common as the trend appears to be that many new climbers have no aptitude or respect for a trad ethic.

There are certain climbs (like Wheat Thin) where it appears that bolts are necessary to adequately protect it. Things like Cookie Monster (haven't done it) I guess the line gets thinner: can get gear but hard to see, hard to place, etc. I'll let others debate the ultimate question of whether it was just bolted for the masses.

Other places like the Gorge, I've heard claims that the rock is weird and cams tend to pop out, etc., hence the need for bolts. Maybe. I always got the sense that the cracks there were bolted mostly out of convenience, that sport climbers wouldn't want to bring their racks and the like. Some climbs have crack moves but limited gear options. OK. Others, like the one posted by Vitaliy, I don't really see it.
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