Mideast Crisis Update?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic
Trusty Rusty

climber
Tahoe Area
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 14, 2014 - 02:47pm PT
Anyone been on the upper pitches recently? Heard through a "friend of a friend" that some key stuff blew off pitch 7/8 last season. Anybody have new beta or revised list of gardening tools?
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Mar 14, 2014 - 03:03pm PT
I climbed it two years ago and it seemed to line up closely with the topo. The upper pitches do feature some less-than-stellar rock in places, but I wouldn't say it was dangerously loose. Not at all, actually.

Did you get any specifics on what may have fallen off?
Trusty Rusty

climber
Tahoe Area
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2014 - 05:25pm PT

Thanks for input JTE. No I didn't get specifics, buddy overheard at some bonfire in Bishop a cpl months ago. Didn't think there was much expanding up there, though it is the great outdoors.
Overall how would you rate the route?
Chim-Chim

climber
Mar 14, 2014 - 05:31pm PT
Heh Ryan, Trusty has heard about the "spice container" however has given no other details:) How was your trip?
JustThatEasy

climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
Mar 14, 2014 - 05:40pm PT
Yeah, anything is possible, and sh#t falls down all the time in the Valley, but there wasn't any particular feature that I thought was suspect. Overall, I thought it was a great route. It's a fun mix of free and aid for the first half and unrelentingly steep for the second half. We did it in two days, bivying on the only real ledge which is just about halfway up.

Haha, Chim, what are you up to? I'm flying into Reno on Sunday for training. I'll be staying at Donner Lake at a friend's house. Maybe we could hook up one evening at the Incline gym?!
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Mar 14, 2014 - 06:14pm PT
Did route june 2012. Got suckered out left to large free standing flake on ledge on pitch 7 towards a bolt. I put a couple pieces behind the flake and it shifted, gear fell out and I pitched down off the ledge. That was only real loose stuff. The low angle ramps above the bivy ledge were wild. We had a hand drawn topo and got off route on the upper pitches, maybe last three.


off route exit of what was the Slab Route, not Mid East Crisis.
off route exit of what was the Slab Route, not Mid East Crisis.
Credit: james Colborn
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Mar 14, 2014 - 06:22pm PT
Upper pitch of Mid East Crisis
Upper pitch of Mid East Crisis
Credit: james Colborn
Trusty Rusty

climber
Tahoe Area
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2014 - 07:11pm PT
Beauty!
james Colborn

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Mar 14, 2014 - 11:24pm PT
How often do you think this route gets done? Anyone have any ideas?
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Mar 15, 2014 - 12:15am PT
At least a few times per season. It really is a good little route. Very natural, only a dozen bolts, and another dozen fixed pins when I last did it a few years back. I highly recommend the Planck's Constant roof variation, very wild an in-character with the rest of the route.
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Oct 9, 2014 - 09:34pm PT
Ran a lap on this last week. Nothing "blew off" pitch 7/8, rather it looks like someone scraped off the entire contents of the the alcove in the middle of pitch 7. The loose triangular block in the climber's path was a hazard, but most of the rest was a non-issue, really not warranting the extensive crowbar work that was undertaken, so I am really left with mixed feelings on this action. Anyone seen Nanook up there recently? It smells of his type of handiwork...

We also found an abandoned cam on P3 (just left behind?), then two cams and a brass nut at the P7 hateful flare, and many single bail biners at anchors up to P10. Surely there is a bit of a story to all that?

It went clean, though I expect the end of P12 will become an issue after a few more ascents, the rotten horizontal crack is getting more flared and blown out in the middle and I could barely make a #2 camalot stick. The final move looks to also have had something blow out of low down pocket. I ended up making a free move by yarding on the wimpy dehydrated plant growing of of the crack.

The two dead trees at the very summit are getting pretty weak, you REALLY don't want to haul off of them. Shuttle up the 4th class. There is a #5 C4 sized crack for a couple cams just at the exit of the 5th class moves, and a decent live shrub to build an OK anchor from for the fixed line.
Shorthaul

Trad climber
Palo Alto
Oct 9, 2014 - 10:37pm PT
NANOOK led hIS group

five follower sheeple

[one extra-tasty!]

up THE CRISIS in march.

shaped like crowbars

nanooked the route

facelifts with bolts

to make kor proud

washington column

=

sloans own personal

plastic surgery clinic

these days
Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews