North To The Bone, Anybody Done it?

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survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 13, 2014 - 05:42pm PT
In my quest to find the right project for Buggs' 50th birthday climb, I came across: North To The Bone, V 5.9 A3, North Dome, Kings Canyon.

So far I haven't found a blip of info about it......

I don't need my hand held, but a topo might be nice.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Mar 13, 2014 - 05:46pm PT
A friend did that route a while back, said it was good.

Munge, Mooch and I did the freak show over to the left, a very fun mini wall, all clean.

Summit post has topos I think.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 13, 2014 - 05:57pm PT
Thanks Mucci, maybe I was looking in the wrong place? I saw a couple topos on there, but not for this.

If I can't find something, I might be hitting you up for Freak Show info!
Captain...or Skully

climber
Mar 13, 2014 - 07:57pm PT
I might have a topo at home. Alas, that's a thousand miles and many weeks away.....sorry.
WBraun

climber
Mar 13, 2014 - 08:02pm PT
5 second search pulled up this.

Are you sure you know how to search on the internet :-)



http://www.summitpost.org/north-dome-kings-canyon/151254
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
Mar 13, 2014 - 08:08pm PT
Breaking news!!!

Duck the Great rescues a climber lost on North Dome!

;)

Moose
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2014 - 01:55am PT
Wow apparently I don't know how to do a search, that's why I asked.

I went to that page and still don't see it, but thanks for the help Werner!

Unfortunately, that drawing sucks ass as a route topo, but at least I know what part of the wall to look at now.

Skully, the climb is also MANY weeks away, so I'd love to see that topo if it's any better than the 3rd grade drawing above!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Mar 14, 2014 - 04:03pm PT
Here is Mungeclimbers TR on the freak.

http://www.bigwalls.com/forum2/index.php?topic=1282.msg12268#msg12268
The SEKI book has some topos of north dome, pretty good if I remember.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Mar 14, 2014 - 04:16pm PT
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab
Credit: limpingcrab

These might be helpful

Hopefully doing North of Eden when the road opens and A Tall Cool One when my balls grow
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2014 - 04:33am PT
Thanks crab!! That's awesome. This is adequate for me to throw this into the pot with my pal.
Blessings and awesomeness are upon you!


Credit: survival
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Mar 16, 2014 - 11:06pm PT
No problemo!

If you let me know when you head up this summer I can probably help haul loads to the base and snap some pictures while you're on the wall. I should be in the canyon a lot this season.

Have fun!
-Daniel
WBraun

climber
Mar 16, 2014 - 11:42pm PT
Looks really big and menacing Bruce.

Are you sure you're up for that monster?

If I saw it up close I would surely run away ......
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2014 - 12:44am PT
Daniel yes! I would love to meet you out there!

I have always enjoyed meeting new climbers and people who know a little something about the place I'm about to stick my toe in.

Werner, HA HA HA!!! Yes, I'm old enough and slow enough to be sufficiently worried about any semi-large undertaking anymore.

We can't all grow up to be you and Donini you know........


I can still lift a large child though, which gives me a shot at getting the loads up there,....to the base.....
Credit: survival


Credit: survival
Captain...or Skully

climber
Mar 17, 2014 - 07:38am PT
The limping crab has the same one I have... .have a blast, Bruce!
ec

climber
ca
Mar 17, 2014 - 05:19pm PT
I've done it. So,so.

Better choice: North of Eden, IMO.

 ec

Edit: 'bout the diciest thing for me were those blocks down low, then finishing the pitch (hooks), then doing the traverse to the right onto the arête up high...


Apr 4, 2010 - 10:44pm PT
From: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=614850&msg=615652

Jun 16, 2008 - 09:10am PT
Hopelessly waiting for the heat to subside, Richard Leversee and I lay in the parking area with haulbag and pack packed. We arrived to do an FA on North Dome at Cedar Grove in Kings Canyon NP. Then this guy comes up to us, asking if we were going to climb. In the following conversation we discovered that 'Mike' had minimal experience, but was 'volunteering' to sign-up. Lever and I looked to each other with the, "are you thinking what I'm thinking?" Sure, someone to help with the load (haul slave). Mike was an employee in the park and we drove back to his place to pick-up his gear. Soon after that we were humping to the base in the summer heat.

The route followed this crack system to the left of TM's route (a huge corner), diagonaling out left towards the center of the face. Mike, being the last off of the belay had to do a big lower-out on this one pitch, "Hey, there's this huge loose block out here, what should I do?" We looked down at Mike and his new friend, a one-foot thick, fifteen-foot high and four-foot wide block literally teetering on its end. We had Mike get just above the obelisk and gather up any spare rope that may be dangling around it. Then we screamed, "ROCK!" for about five minutes to the tourists below and warnings for them to clear out.

Then with a gentle kick, Mike sent this thing down! First, it fell outward, hinging at its base falling down the face like a huge surf board. The sound of it pushing air was unnerving. The block hit the slab below and exploded into gazillions of pieces, sending many large chunks rifling through the forest. Lucky, no touroids were injured in the making of this FA.

Uh, and I'll never do any of those slab routes down there now, either!

- ec
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2014 - 05:52pm PT
Hey ec, thanks for the post!

Here's my dilemma: Dad who hasn't climbed many days a year for a long time.

It's been a long time since I did any aid, so I won't be swift even on that.

But 5.10+ would be even less likely for success! (unless it's totally aidable) I haven't led more than mid 10 for a long time, and that was with the pro quite close.
Sorry, some guys have kept their game up high, I haven't quite been able to.
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