First Winter Ascent Mt. Huntington French Ridge


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Mountain climber
Portland, OR
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 6, 2014 - 08:53pm PT
Here's a TR of a burly smash-and-grab by a local Portland, OR boy, John Frieh. He and his crew have a nasty habit of doing amazing ascents in the Alaska Range over a long weekend. What took my crew 40 days and nights of expeditioning back in the day, John does in two or three.

this just in

north fork
Mar 6, 2014 - 09:05pm PT
Wow. That's incredible, 51 total hours. That first pic is one of the best mountain shots ever, beautiful line. Thanks.

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Mar 6, 2014 - 10:41pm PT
Four days round trip? Amazing! Well done chaps!

finally some climbing content on this site!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Mar 6, 2014 - 11:11pm PT
Inspiring amount of productivity for a long weekend! And beautiful beautiful pics.

Mar 6, 2014 - 11:13pm PT
Johns a good dude who works hard to stay in shape, and it pays off. 51 hours straight in winter no less, sweet - those dudes were flying. Nice report Jay. Didn't you lap that one back in the day ? The day being, of course, before most of us was born? LOL

locker style edit:
Dohh, nevermind, just read the comments on your link and see you posted it up in a comment way down the list.

"What did you do this weekend?"

Oh, it was raining so I copped a 40' bouldering sesh to keep my joints loose". ............

"How bout you"?

"Flew up and did the first winter ascent of Mt Huntington"....


Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
Mar 6, 2014 - 11:21pm PT
Bump for real climbers climbing......

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Mar 6, 2014 - 11:38pm PT
Awesome! A great report with great photos!

Of course the folks at Cascadeclimbers have only commented on it about 15 times since it was posted on March 1.

Sniff-sniff thinks the Seattle-based climber: This ascent wasn't in the Cascades. Really not worthy of comment. Surprised the moderators allowed it in. Why don't they post more volcano ascent stories?
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Mar 6, 2014 - 11:44pm PT
Here are a few photos that I took of the French Ridge
Winter is easy, every thing is frozen
Try climbing those ridges when it's bottomless depth hoar without any protection or belays.

Mount Huntington bathed in sunlight, as seen from Reality Ridge.  <br/>
Mount Huntington bathed in sunlight, as seen from Reality Ridge.
North face on the left, in sunlight.
French Ridge is coming towards you.
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat
Breakable crust <br/>
Bottomless depth hoar <br/>
No ice <br/>
Nothing solid <br/>
No ...
Breakable crust
Bottomless depth hoar
No ice
Nothing solid
No protection
No belays
Summit of Peak 10,370
Mount Huntington in the background.
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat
Mt Huntington from Denali
Mt Huntington from Denali
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 6, 2014 - 11:49pm PT
bad ass!
Trusty Rusty

Tahoe Area
Mar 7, 2014 - 12:02am PT
Laughing out loud here, way bold!. Guys rocked it.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 7, 2014 - 12:04am PT
I have met one of the guys (Brad) from this team in Hyalite. Was a really nice guy, and his friend took a cool photo of me. We both got to lead the Scepter in some weird chandelirie conditions that day. Awesome to hear about their climb. Prolly a lot better to go to Alaska knowing you have a window and doing it in a few long days vs planning a trip without knowing if the window will be there! Great strategy and execution! Awesome TR too!

right there, right then
Mar 7, 2014 - 12:09am PT
Another tip of the hat for this well-planned surgical strike. Nice work, fellas!

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
Mar 7, 2014 - 02:17am PT
At least they didn't do the majority of the climb in approach shoes(maybe that's the next step:-))

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Mar 7, 2014 - 09:04am PT
They really have it dialed in! Beautiful photo's as well.

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Mar 7, 2014 - 09:16am PT
Hey Jay!!!

Never worry brother, you set the stage, and you helped define bad ass up there.

Trad climber
Nevada City
Mar 7, 2014 - 09:57am PT
Bad Climber

Mar 7, 2014 - 10:18am PT
Wonderful! Stoke for my morning hike with the hound.


Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Mar 7, 2014 - 10:53am PT
Seriously badass. Nothing but respect. Laissez les bons temps rouler!
And it appears they had really good temps. In that second pic the dude
looks to be dressed for a jog in Central Park! WTF?
John Frieh

Ice climber
Mar 7, 2014 - 11:43am PT
Thanks everyone; glad you liked the trip report. Hat tip to Mr Terray and the many that followed in his footsteps like Mr Jay Kerr. Much respect!

I really enjoyed this thread about the first ascent of Mt Huntington:

I have to admit I find it slightly comical that just a few months ago a good portion of SuperTopo was ready to burn me at the stake over some accusations made by others. Gotta love the internet
Big Mike

Trad climber
Mar 7, 2014 - 12:52pm PT
Lol John. Nice work man! Very impressive ascent. Where's the rest of the story? I'm hoping you're saving it for Alpinist 46!

Awesome photos too!!
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