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brett
climber
oregon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 22, 2014 - 04:23pm PT
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I dunno, I haven't climbed either route in 20 years, but that full page profile of EBGBs in the current issue sure looks like a picture of Loose Lady. ?!? Big screw up by the editor or is my memory going?
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brett
climber
oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 22, 2014 - 08:15pm PT
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Bad Climber
climber
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Feb 22, 2014 - 08:26pm PT
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You're right! It is absolutely Loose Lady, and a fine route she is--more in line for mere mortals. That curving crack and buttress behind are dead giveaways. Thanks for the heads up. Funny.
BAd
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 22, 2014 - 08:56pm PT
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Blowing it for sure! Lol
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Feb 22, 2014 - 08:59pm PT
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JJ poofed it.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Feb 22, 2014 - 09:13pm PT
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D'oh!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 22, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
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indeed.
but yr a week behind facebook.
but yr demonstrating good choss knowledge.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Feb 22, 2014 - 10:13pm PT
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How embarrassing.
then again, I only say "oh yeah, that route over there. The good one with friction." for any route in Josh
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ruppell
climber
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Feb 22, 2014 - 10:17pm PT
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Am I the only one who thought the start mantle was way harder than anything else on the route?
Here's a good shot of it.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
who gave up and just goes sailing now!
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Feb 22, 2014 - 10:29pm PT
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Glad my routes are so well thought of. The crux of EBGBs probably is the mantle, which has gotten harder over the years. But the psych crux is the slopey holded runout at the top. The whole middle of the route is actually quite a bit easier then when we put it up because all the holds have been scooped out by climbing on then the last 40 years.
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ruppell
climber
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Feb 22, 2014 - 10:39pm PT
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G_Gmome
I don't know which of the 4 FA's you are but it's a proud line. Today or in the late 70's. Somehow it maintains this aura of "Holy Shite I'm gonna die". Maybe 10+ slab isn't that hard by todays standards. You're route will still get you a beer at the end of the day though. I tip of my hat to you. And thanks for a "killer" line. lol
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 22, 2014 - 10:59pm PT
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Glad my routes are so well thought of
this one, anyway, heh. good on ya.
location is everything. ebgbs is really cool partly because it's one of the most visible routes in the park. you can see it from the road and much of the campground. sort of a jtree-smallscale-grainmuffin version of the view of eigerwand from grindelwald.
ok, that's a stretch. but it's funny how exposure is a whole lot worse when you walk into it, rather than climbing upwards in graduated increments.
great route.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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Feb 23, 2014 - 03:03am PT
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Feb 23, 2014 - 11:41am PT
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Jeebus, how does a photo editor of a well-known rock mag make a blooper like that?
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Feb 23, 2014 - 12:08pm PT
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Tucker Tech broke his ankle on it, was that the fall that sheared the aluminum hanger, leading to the upgrade on the bolts?
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fluffy
Trad climber
Colorado
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Feb 23, 2014 - 02:05pm PT
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Jeebus, how does a photo editor of a well-known rock mag make a blooper like that?
Rock and Ice is crap
Nice pic of loose lady though
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Feb 23, 2014 - 03:05pm PT
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Jeebus, how does a photo editor of a well-known rock mag make a blooper like that?
A. They are professional journalists.
B. They are based in Colorado.
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cleggy
Trad climber
Derby, UK
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Feb 23, 2014 - 03:44pm PT
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Cragman, good story. Been there and like you, still here. Steve
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Feb 23, 2014 - 05:36pm PT
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Funny thing, though, is that most of the readers won't know the difference.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Feb 23, 2014 - 06:05pm PT
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Such an iconic and storied line... one of those routes where everyone has a story attached to it. I remember being at a Sterling Rope clinic out there and a Japanese athlete of theirs took a huge scraper on it... laughed it off, finished the pitch blooded up and smiling.
Up there with Figures, Left Ski Track etc where you fight the name and history long before grappling the dime edges!
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