Training for the New Alpinism: Steve House, Scott Johnston

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Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 15, 2014 - 10:41am PT
This book looks great! apparently ready to ship. I have been getting advice from Scott Johnston for my nordic race training this year, he is one of the best coaches in the US. Also an accomplished climber (K2 summit without oxygen, etc.)

[Click to View YouTube Video]

From publisher:
"In Training for the New Alpinism, Steve House, world-class climber and Patagonia ambassador, and Scott Johnston, coach of U.S. National Champions and World Cup Nordic Skiers, translate training theory into practice to allow you to coach yourself to any mountaineering goal. Applying training practices from other endurance sports, House and Johnston demonstrate that following a carefully designed regimen is as effective for alpinism as it is for any other endurance sport and leads to better performance... Chapters are augmented with inspiring essays by world-renowned climbers, including Ueli Steck, Mark Twight, Peter Habeler, Voytek Kurtyka, and Will Gadd. Filled with photos, graphs, and illustrations."
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2014 - 05:58pm PT
Bump...this must be if some interest!
Guangzhou

Trad climber
Asia, Indonesia, East Java
Feb 15, 2014 - 09:11pm PT
I miss having a workout partner. Meeting someone at a set time sure helps when you don't exactly feel like leaving the house again.

Looks like some great stuff. May have to order a copy and hope it doesn't just gather dust on the shelf while I dream of working out.
fosburg

climber
Feb 15, 2014 - 11:10pm PT
Very interesting! I'm getting that book for sure even if the concept isn't "new".
Maysho

climber
Soda Springs, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2014 - 08:22pm PT
Bump, helping my friend Scott promote this book!
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Feb 18, 2014 - 12:28am PT
Looks good. Scott knows his stuff.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:54am PT
Great book. Really well done. I like how it's layed out especially the snippets from a bunch of different climbers.

Almost makes me wanna train...or at least try "Hitler's dog"...ha ha...
klk

Trad climber
cali
Feb 18, 2014 - 01:24pm PT
tx for the heads-up

hadnt seen it before
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
Feb 18, 2014 - 02:19pm PT
Looking forward to getting a copy. My old Extreme Alpinism by Twight is dog eared, worn and dated. Nice shot in the trailer of a climber on the summit of Tocllaraju in the Cordillera Blanca., my old stomping grounds....
TY
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Feb 18, 2014 - 04:29pm PT
"Go simply, train smart, climb better"
There's something to remember and try to follow.
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Feb 18, 2014 - 05:38pm PT
Here's to Maysho going faster and reaching his potential...RJ
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
May 8, 2014 - 02:04pm PT
And, ya gotta want it....the summit that is.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Nov 2, 2016 - 07:04pm PT
Just discovered this site by Steve House and Scott Johnston, related to their book and training:

http://www.uphillathlete.com/
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Nov 2, 2016 - 07:22pm PT
It starts out laying out the foundation of the necessity of a large Zone 1 training base predicated upon volume

yes, the book boils down to the paramount importance of many, many hours in Zone 1. For most jocks, Zone 1 is going to seem like a waste of time. But that's the genius of the book. If you want to send big hills, you have to have that foundation. [To be sure, you also need strength and technique, but strength and technique are icing on the Zone 1 cake.]

A lot of people including myself have to be disciplined to keep it in Zone 1.
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Nov 2, 2016 - 07:41pm PT
yes, the book boils down to the paramount importance of many, many hours in Zone 1. For most jocks, Zone 1 is going to seem like a waste of time. But that's the genius of the book. If you want to send big hills, you have to have that foundation. [To be sure, you also need strength and technique, but strength and technique are icing on the Zone 1 cake.]

A lot of people including myself have to be disciplined to keep it in Zone 1.

Big stuff here. Don't disregard the fun you can have going easy with your friends while adding to your base...
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
Nov 2, 2016 - 08:03pm PT
I remember seeing Johnston at the 85 xc nationals in Bend and i remember Audun E. talking about Scott having an auto repair...The guy has talent to spare..
jstan

climber
Nov 2, 2016 - 11:20pm PT
Seems to me auto repair is not zone 0. Rebuilding an automatic transmission has to be a zone 6. FaIlure comes at a hella big price, not the least coming because once you are on the face you can't just bail.
Messages 1 - 17 of total 17 in this topic
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