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elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 6, 2006 - 03:45pm PT
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In an effort to never think about the current bruhaha again, I was hoping someone could answer this.
How many people have done an FA on El Cap as their first El Cap route?
Obviously Harding and the Nose crew.
Burton and Sutton? That's what I heard, but don't know.
And Jensen and Smith.
But have there been any others?
Beyer is a possibility, but no frickin' way am I going to call him.
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johnx01
Trad climber
UK
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Chuck Kroger & Scott Davis - Heart Route ?
Think - Burton & Sutton had been on El Cap before(Don't Know)
-johnx01
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Not Beyer. He did Dihedral.
But my partner Yaniro had never even done a grade IV before the Dorn Direct, and he was 16. That's probably a record low age for an FA.
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elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2006 - 04:53pm PT
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You guys and your variations....
Just kidding Ron, don't shoot!
I guess for the purposes I was seeking, it would have to exclude "mixed" teams.
Did you get a note from his parents?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I didn't know he was 16 until the 4th day.
So what was the last fully independent line to be put up?
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john hansen
climber
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The last independent line was 'Zenyata Mondatta' (super topos yos big walls).
Some other guys who might have done thier first elcap route as a FA.
This is some speculation and some that are true... Jimmy Dunn 'Cosmos',, Charlie
Porter 'Mescalito etc" ,,,Ed cooper and Jim baldwin on Diheadral Wall. Greg Child 'Aroura',,,Randy Levitt 'Wyoming sheep ranch'. Maybe Dale Bard went up the first time with the bird on his latest project. There are also probably 40 or 50 guys that got talked into hauling and belaying and were never out front, but still made thier first trip up the stone doing a first ascent. George Whitmore and Wayne Merry on the nose, or Phil Birsheff on Lurkin fear. He didn't even want to be there.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Had Robbins, Pratt and Frost all done the nose before they put up the Salathe'?
Good question elcapfool.
How about who and what route was the first person to solo a first ascent on the big stone?
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Mimi
Trad climber
Seattle
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Wouldn't that be Charlie Porter on Zodiac and Jim Dunn on Cosmos?
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john hansen
climber
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Royal ,Chuck, Tom and Joe Frichen did the 2nd ascet of nose in 60. Salathe wall done in 61 ( Yos Big walls ST) so I guess they dont make the cut...sorry Royal.
On 'Tangerine Trip' Charlie Porter grabed some guy named J.P.de St croix, they only knew each other three weeks , dont know if he had climbed El Cap before .
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john hansen
climber
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you are correct Mimi, Porters first route was Zodiac. sorry. I dont know if he climbed existing routes before that.
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Gene
climber
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No-Greg Child 'Aroura'
No-Randy Levitt 'Wyoming sheep ranch'
What about Porter's partner on Tangerine Trip?
That guy on Mescalito (Not Porter, Burton or Sutton)
Dean Caldwell on WOEML?
Chouinard on NA Wall?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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I first met Greg in the Valley in '76, so I can't believe Aurora was his first route up the Stone.
I had only known Tony for 4 days before we went for it.
And Jimmy on Cosmos was DEFINITELY the first SFA on the Stone, Mimi, but Porter sure did some stuff too.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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There are also probably 40 or 50 guys that got talked into hauling and belaying and were never out front, but still made thier first trip up the stone doing a first ascent.
Rick Sylvester led every pitch of SOH, 1971. I don't know if his partner, Claude-Wreford Brown, had ever been on the wall before.
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elcapfool
Big Wall climber
hiding in plain sight
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2006 - 08:23am PT
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Maybe I wasn't clear, rookie partners don't count.
It would have to be the first EC route for every member of the party.
And the whole team on the nose is also excluded.
Anybody have Steve Sutton's contact info?
There have been some good suggestions, but I get the feeling nobody really knows.
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Java (Greg Child) did the second ascent of the Pacific Ocean Wall, and was a nailing stud back then. First try on ZM was my second time on El Cap, did the Zodiac the year before when I was 17.
Porters' partner on the Trip was a dude from Midpines. First wall, maybe one of his first times climbing!
Referring to the endless WOS issue and Dueces post about bolts per pitch. ZM and Aurora both done in Sept 81, were probably the last new routes before Wings of Contention. Aurora had about 80 holes for 10 new pitches, and that was a better ratio than the Trip on which we began and ended. So WOS might not have been much of a bolting departure.
Peter
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darod
Trad climber
South Side Billburg
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Peter, great post. I might have to quote you.
Darod.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dave Anderson -Lost World, FA.
I'm not sure but it might have been his first El Cap route. Anyone know? He did PO, but I think that was later.
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dank
Trad climber
the pitch above you!
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Jean-Paul de St. Croix on Tangerine Trip.
He wanted to lead some pitches, but Porter wouldn't let him.
He had climbed before, but this was his first
and only route on the Big Stone.
Only knowing each other for about 3 weeks sounds right.
They did the route in April of 1974.
They spent 10 days on the wall.
It rained 8 days of the 10.
He did a lot of climbing in the
Southern Sierra with his son in the 90s.
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Kligfield
Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
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Mar 29, 2017 - 08:05pm PT
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The party on the first ascent of the Dihedral Wall did it as their first Valley climb--look up the history of it in the original Roper guidebook--Ed Cooper and team.
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