Discussion Topic |
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cellardoor
Trad climber
berkeley,ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 18, 2013 - 12:25am PT
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Hiya there!
I'm heading down to Josh over New Years for a few days with a bunk shoulder so I'm looking to get my slab on!
Do any of you lovely folk have any routes and/or boulder suggestions? Must-do climbs? Terrifying stuff? Name it all! Gotta polish my technique and get mentally stronger!
5.8-5.11 range
Thank you!!
 Alix
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Dec 18, 2013 - 12:26am PT
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Walk On The Wild Side.
Classic Joshua Tree. Gotta at least consider it.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Dec 18, 2013 - 12:27am PT
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Don't worry, the slab will find you!
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Sam E
Boulder climber
Malibu
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Dec 18, 2013 - 12:32am PT
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Stick to What?
EBGBs
Basically everything at Echo.
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Raafie
Big Wall climber
Portland, OR
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Dec 18, 2013 - 12:33am PT
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What happened to the shoulder?
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cellardoor
Trad climber
berkeley,ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2013 - 12:35am PT
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I'm pretty sure it's strained rotator cuff and partial tear of the bicep from a fall. It's been six weeks and I can't hang on a pull-up bar, but I'm slowly progressing. Should heal...eventually...soon...hopefully :)
Slabs are a go though!
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MP
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 18, 2013 - 01:28am PT
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It's been years but I have good memories of
Loose Lady
Run For Your Life
EBGBs
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 18, 2013 - 01:54am PT
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EBGBs, but if the bunk shoulder is your right the start could mess with you.
Compassion of the Elephants
Decompensator of Lhasa (again the lower part is not pure slab.)
There's a few true slab climbs in the Hall of horrors, southwest facing, across from Jane's Addiction. They are pretty good but bring more than draws.
Then there's the rusty wall. Two really good 5.10s, one a bolted slab, one to the right a thin flake kinda like slab, and a harder sport climb left.
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MP
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 18, 2013 - 02:10am PT
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For sure, Compassion of the Elephants
Also: Chalk Up Another One
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JonA
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Dec 18, 2013 - 06:34am PT
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Cleopatra. 5 star well protected 5.11 slab.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Dec 18, 2013 - 07:54am PT
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All of these get sun
RML 5.8/5.9
CS Special 5.10 (could be a bit burly off the ground)
Abstract Roller Disco 11a
Tin God 11a R
The Official Route of the 1984 Olympics 5.10c PG13 (potential for swinging fall at crux)
Quick Draw McGraw 5.10a
The Falcon and the Snowman 5.10c PG13
Grain Surgery 5.10b R
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Dec 18, 2013 - 08:23am PT
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Definitely be aware of the ratings here. A lot of the suggested routes are heads up, or heads down if you blow it.
Have a great time. There is a non stop collection of slab climbing out here. Do your homework. Todd Gordon is the king of slabs around here.
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Dec 18, 2013 - 08:41am PT
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I'll second Chaz' suggestion:
Walk on the Wild Side has thrills, chills and killer views. 5 star classic multi-pitch. Avoid if it's windy tho.
Love The Falcon and the Snowman, Cleopatra and Compassion of the Elephants.
Have a great trip!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Dec 18, 2013 - 08:54am PT
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Another vote for Walk on the Wild Side. There aren't many 3 pitch climbs in JT. Maybe it goes in two with the longer ropes.
Pinched Rib is fun as well. Not really a slab, but frictiony.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Dec 18, 2013 - 09:34am PT
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^^^
The Astrodomes are pretty chilly this time of year. Besides, Such a Savage has a bit of cranking at the crux
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Dec 18, 2013 - 09:50am PT
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Oh Yeah, Black Tide. A good 5.7 (8?) warm up. Zero approach.
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Send
Trad climber
Central Sierra
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Dec 18, 2013 - 11:20am PT
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King Smear V3 in the Outback. Pure low angle blank slab-alicious!
+1 for Dazed & Confused
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Sioux Juan
Big Wall climber
Costa mesa
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Dec 18, 2013 - 11:58am PT
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papa Woolsey at 10b is a good one....................
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Dec 18, 2013 - 12:02pm PT
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walkin' on the wild side
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10b4me
Ice climber
Bishop/Flagstaff
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Dec 18, 2013 - 12:05pm PT
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Tip Toe(5.7)@Trashcan Rock
RAF(5.9)@Echo Cove
Just about anything on Echo Rock.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!