Awesome fingercracks of CA

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Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 3, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
I noticed a really high number of 5.11c fingercracks that are awesome. For example Espresso Crack at Little Egypt (Bishop area), 4th pitch of NF of the Rostrum, Butterballs at Cookie Cliff, and Pinky Paralysis (for my fingers felt much harder than 11c) at Finger Lickiní area (Yosemite). So what are some awesome 5.11d/512 fingercracks in CA? Heard Equanox in Joshua Tree kicks ass. What are some good 5.10c-11b fingercracks?

Post some photos if you got them!
Curt

climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
Dec 3, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
This one's pretty nice...


Curt
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Dec 3, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
Equinox is one of the best ever!
all in jim

climber
Dec 3, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
Rawhide
Rawhide
Credit: all in jim

Lost at Sea
Lost at Sea
Credit: all in jim

Salathe Headwall cracks
Salathe Headwall cracks
Credit: all in jim

Serenity
Serenity
Credit: all in jim

Zinger
Zinger
Credit: all in jim
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 3, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1840113/Tips-5-12a-This-and-That-Cliff-Yosemite-Valley

hamik

Mountain climber
Pasadena, CA
Dec 3, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
Burchey, I was trying to decide what to do what with the freezing temps at Josh this weekend. That pic makes me want to come back to Woodson. You free?
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 3, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
Did a random Tr burn once on a beauty fingercrack up at donner summit after bouldering one day, only time ive ever climbed up there unfortunately. Would have loved to have gone back & led it. I can't remember the name but it was on perfect stone with great fingercrackwork the whole way. Maybe 11c/d on snowshed wall, left side i think- anyone know the name of what I'm talking about? Anyways, awesome fingercrack of CA for sure.







Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Dec 3, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
5.10c - 5.11b (Yosemite)
351. Sherrie's Crack 5.10c **
2118. Mr. Natural 5.10c ***
130. Finger Lickin' 5.10d ***
750. Little Wing 5.10d **
1422. Ten Years After 5.10d ***
1448. Lazy Bum 5.10d **
1606. Serenity Crack 5.10d ***
2286. Vanishing Point 5.10d **
2302. Manana 5.10d **
2590. The Thief 5.10d **
96. New Dimensions 5.11a ***
180. Hardd p1 5.11a ***
203. Butterfingers 5.11a **
204. Ladyfingers 5.11a **
1308. Mindahoonee Wall 5.11a **
1535. Knuckle Buster 5.11a **
1561. Book of Revelations 5.11a **
1698. Arches Terrace Direct 5.11a **
2220. Controlled Burn 5.11a **
2799. Fatal Mistake 5.11a A1 ***
79. Anticipation 5.11b **
181. Hardd p2 5.11b ***
199. Aftershock 5.11b **
1062. The Moratorium 5.11b **
1147. Essence 5.11b **
1533. Maps and Legends 5.11b **
2151. Circuit Breaker 5.11b TR **
2701. Crack the Whip 5.11b **
2794. Crashline 5.11b **
2806. Hairline 5.11b **

5.11c - 5.12
137. Pinky Paralysis (full) 5.11c ***
182. Crack-a-Go-Go 5.11c ***
201. Butterballs 5.11c ***
2274. Chouinard-Herbert 5.11c **
2512. Soul Sacrifice 5.11c **
2717. The Rostrum - Regular North Face 5.11c ***
2746. The Viper 5.11c **
194. Red Zinger 5.11d ***
293. Gait of Power 5.11d **
2314. Whisker 5.11d **
2630. The Warbler 5.11d **
2807. Moongerms 5.11d **
122. Goldfinger 5.12a **
439. Tips 5.12a ***
414. Fish Crack 5.12b **
435. Robin 5.12b **
1843. The Chief 5.12b *** (long route with short finger crack crux)
2723. Rostrum Roof 5.12b ***
2724. Alien 5.12b ***
2750. Razor's Edge 5.12 **
1218. Follywood 5.12c **

from Routes by Type list:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/YOSTYP.HTM
The Alpine

climber
Dec 3, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
Goldfinger - Tuolumne


Fatal Mistake - Elephant Rock

RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 3, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
Manic depression i think rings a bell Ron. Thanks, killer stone up there.


Edit- oh hey a climbing thread!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Dec 3, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
All in jim - what a photo set. Hell yeah. Thank you for that.
Friend

climber
Dec 3, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
Hard as Nails 5.11+, at Mt Woodson
Friend

climber
Dec 3, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
The Emperor 5.11+, at the Needles
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 3, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
At the Palm Springs Tram... Coffman Crag... there is a 1 pitch climb 160 feet long...
Starts as a 11 squeeze chimney, keeps getting smaller as you go, by 1/3 its a finger crack then its a changing corner, still fingers... near the top the crack ends and you do some 11 face climbing then its 11 friction for the last few moves.....

"It's always something"

Kris Solem and crew

It will be iced up this weekend.... :>(

The Rubicon at JT.... not 11 but pretty nice.

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Dec 3, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
Credit: limpingcrab

Check out this crack in a boulder by my house, it's taller than me! Totally a destination climb, let me know when you come over to give it a try and I'll take pictures.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Dec 3, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
OAK --> SLC --> creekend. :-)
photo not found
Missing photo ID#192883
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Dec 3, 2013 - 05:31pm PT

Flatfingers. Trona Calif
Short but sweet

Credit: Cosmiccragsman
The Alpine

climber
Dec 3, 2013 - 05:50pm PT
Asleep at the Wheel, Mt Chamberlin.

rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Dec 3, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
Blues Riff at Tuolumne is excellent.

At Josh...Hot Rocks fits the bill.
Brock

Trad climber
RENO, NV
Dec 3, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
Anyone mention: BONEYFINGERS Whitney Portal
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