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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 3, 2013 - 02:22pm PT
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I noticed a really high number of 5.11c fingercracks that are awesome. For example Espresso Crack at Little Egypt (Bishop area), 4th pitch of NF of the Rostrum, Butterballs at Cookie Cliff, and Pinky Paralysis (for my fingers felt much harder than 11c) at Finger Lickin’ area (Yosemite). So what are some awesome 5.11d/512 fingercracks in CA? Heard Equanox in Joshua Tree kicks ass. What are some good 5.10c-11b fingercracks?
Post some photos if you got them!
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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This one's pretty nice...
Curt
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Equinox is one of the best ever!
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hamik
Mountain climber
Pasadena, CA
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Burchey, I was trying to decide what to do what with the freezing temps at Josh this weekend. That pic makes me want to come back to Woodson. You free?
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Did a random Tr burn once on a beauty fingercrack up at donner summit after bouldering one day, only time ive ever climbed up there unfortunately. Would have loved to have gone back & led it. I can't remember the name but it was on perfect stone with great fingercrackwork the whole way. Maybe 11c/d on snowshed wall, left side i think- anyone know the name of what I'm talking about? Anyways, awesome fingercrack of CA for sure.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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5.10c - 5.11b (Yosemite)
351. Sherrie's Crack 5.10c **
2118. Mr. Natural 5.10c ***
130. Finger Lickin' 5.10d ***
750. Little Wing 5.10d **
1422. Ten Years After 5.10d ***
1448. Lazy Bum 5.10d **
1606. Serenity Crack 5.10d ***
2286. Vanishing Point 5.10d **
2302. Manana 5.10d **
2590. The Thief 5.10d **
96. New Dimensions 5.11a ***
180. Hardd p1 5.11a ***
203. Butterfingers 5.11a **
204. Ladyfingers 5.11a **
1308. Mindahoonee Wall 5.11a **
1535. Knuckle Buster 5.11a **
1561. Book of Revelations 5.11a **
1698. Arches Terrace Direct 5.11a **
2220. Controlled Burn 5.11a **
2799. Fatal Mistake 5.11a A1 ***
79. Anticipation 5.11b **
181. Hardd p2 5.11b ***
199. Aftershock 5.11b **
1062. The Moratorium 5.11b **
1147. Essence 5.11b **
1533. Maps and Legends 5.11b **
2151. Circuit Breaker 5.11b TR **
2701. Crack the Whip 5.11b **
2794. Crashline 5.11b **
2806. Hairline 5.11b **
5.11c - 5.12
137. Pinky Paralysis (full) 5.11c ***
182. Crack-a-Go-Go 5.11c ***
201. Butterballs 5.11c ***
2274. Chouinard-Herbert 5.11c **
2512. Soul Sacrifice 5.11c **
2717. The Rostrum - Regular North Face 5.11c ***
2746. The Viper 5.11c **
194. Red Zinger 5.11d ***
293. Gait of Power 5.11d **
2314. Whisker 5.11d **
2630. The Warbler 5.11d **
2807. Moongerms 5.11d **
122. Goldfinger 5.12a **
439. Tips 5.12a ***
414. Fish Crack 5.12b **
435. Robin 5.12b **
1843. The Chief 5.12b *** (long route with short finger crack crux)
2723. Rostrum Roof 5.12b ***
2724. Alien 5.12b ***
2750. Razor's Edge 5.12 **
1218. Follywood 5.12c **
from Routes by Type list:
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/YOSTYP.HTM
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The Alpine
climber
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Goldfinger - Tuolumne
Fatal Mistake - Elephant Rock
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Manic depression i think rings a bell Ron. Thanks, killer stone up there.
Edit- oh hey a climbing thread!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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All in jim - what a photo set. Hell yeah. Thank you for that.
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Friend
climber
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Hard as Nails 5.11+, at Mt Woodson
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Friend
climber
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The Emperor 5.11+, at the Needles
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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At the Palm Springs Tram... Coffman Crag... there is a 1 pitch climb 160 feet long...
Starts as a 11 squeeze chimney, keeps getting smaller as you go, by 1/3 its a finger crack then its a changing corner, still fingers... near the top the crack ends and you do some 11 face climbing then its 11 friction for the last few moves.....
"It's always something"
Kris Solem and crew
It will be iced up this weekend.... :>(
The Rubicon at JT.... not 11 but pretty nice.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Check out this crack in a boulder by my house, it's taller than me! Totally a destination climb, let me know when you come over to give it a try and I'll take pictures.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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OAK --> SLC --> creekend. :-)
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The Alpine
climber
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Asleep at the Wheel, Mt Chamberlin.
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rincon
Trad climber
SoCal
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Blues Riff at Tuolumne is excellent.
At Josh...Hot Rocks fits the bill.
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Anyone mention: BONEYFINGERS Whitney Portal
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hamik
Mountain climber
Pasadena, CA
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I thought Bony Fingers was more of a face climb with a tips crack for pro. It was pretty awesome though.
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