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Messages 1 - 20 of total 37 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
darkmagus

Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
Whoa! I think I saw you guyz on Sunday, I was posted up at Poison Oak Crack belaying and getting hassled by hikers. The hecklers were out in FULL FORCE! Nice little Sunday!!

Such hits as:

"OH HEY SPIDERMAN!" - old ass lady

"HE LOOKS LIKE HE NEEDS A LITTLE HELP" - same lady

"I LIKE EM STEEPER THAN THAT" - fat guy to wife, re: hamburger crack

LOLS ALL DAY
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Nov 20, 2013 - 12:17pm PT
CLIMBING!





apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Nov 20, 2013 - 12:19pm PT
Re: Jaws
Technique, not tape

Haven't we discussed this already?
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
Nov 20, 2013 - 12:48pm PT
Burch3y, out of curiosity , how old are you ?
Joshua Johnson

Boulder climber
Boulder
Nov 20, 2013 - 12:48pm PT
Another reason not to go to Woodson.
John Duffield

Mountain climber
New York
Nov 20, 2013 - 01:57pm PT
Somewhere, I am sure, there will be a Confederate flag for the lulz patrol.
Truthdweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 02:14pm PT
TR at Woodson? Ahahaha! "Where a fifteen foot fall could be fatal" I'm sure I once heard appropriately said.

Yep, there's that Firefly...never did get that thing...amongst many others...*sigh*

Crazy beautiful pictures....i need to get back in shape and join you guys...dang it Jim!


Did I ever meet either of you, Ryan or Jason?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 03:59pm PT
That Manuels Horror isn't straight forward....takes a bit to figure the sequence.

Oh, of you're learning crack technique, tape up for this one...

...just like Hamburger Crack, only more hamburger and more crack.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 04:18pm PT
Leading Jaws? You're right, not recommended, unless a photographer asks you to, even then, kinda silly:


illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 05:15pm PT
The crux are the rattly jams right after that cam. If I would have fallen it would have kept me from hitting the deck, although nobody plans on falling if they're third classing it. Yes, I was asked to place gear for the camera, although nothing came from that photo sesh...never saw the results.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Nov 20, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
You got that Daniel Tosh thing going Bushley. Nice to see someone doing something. Good stuff, thanks for sharing.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
The crux are the rattly jams right after that cam. If I would have fallen it would have kept me from hitting the deck, although nobody plans on falling if they're third classing it. Yes, I was asked to place gear for the camera, although nothing came from that photo sesh, never saw the results.
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 06:18pm PT
yeah, this guy sorta does resemble the guy doing Jaws (wink):

splitter

Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 20, 2013 - 07:33pm PT
Off the couch.
so did he send it? off the couch, even Micronut cud get that far on SB, lol! that is just before it gets burly (only about 5.8, or so, to that point)

...I wanted to lead Robbins or something similar.
go for the on sight solo, bro (seriously)! solid hands all the way. crux is a few feet from the top. actually, crux is down climbing it solo. dude, its tradition, live up to it.

btw, great pics, etc. TFPU!!!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 07:40pm PT
crux is a few feet from the top


Technicallly, the crux is the start, off the ground, but psychologically, while solo,
the top for sure! The downclimb? Twice as hard, lol!


illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Nov 20, 2013 - 08:18pm PT
Credit: illusiondweller

Never seen this perspective before...pretty cool!


Edit: correction... I HAVE seen this perspective before, when I was pulling a climbing slipper out of the top of the crack. I can't recall what it was there for...???
MisterE

climber
Nov 20, 2013 - 10:27pm PT
Haha, I'm not sure about the Robbins solo.

Up, probably be okay.

Down...call the bambalance. I'll make sure to get video if I try the downclimb, you guys deserve a good laugh.

Dude, Baby Robbins is a cruise both up and down. I onsight soloed that thing without a thought at the WoodsonFest a few years back.

Just saying, it's pretty easy.
MisterE

climber
Nov 20, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
Edit: I am talking about the one with the rock at your back.
MisterE

climber
Nov 20, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
^^That one was a bit trickier, but still onsight solo, with a few grandparents, some toddlers and assorted others.
splitter

Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 21, 2013 - 12:51am PT
Yep, Robbins, not Baby Robbins.

Really no big deal to solo, and downclimbing it isn't much harder, imo.

here's a pic of Chris Lindner soloing it at 4 years old...
Chris Lindner soloing Robbins Crack, age of 4!
Chris Lindner soloing Robbins Crack, age of 4!
Credit: splitter
(not sure why this pic came out so small?)

If your gonna be spending some time on the hill, your probably gonna start 3'rd classing stuff ya got wired, or feel comfortable on anyway. Especially if you go up there alone during the week when ya might not run into someone else climbing. Robbins was one of the first things I added to that list/circuit. I didn't onsight solo it, but did solo it the second time. I guess the downclimb was an onsight since we were either rapping or lowering off it the initial time. yada, yada

Technically, the crux is the start, off the ground...
Robbins Crack? I never thought so. Maybe if ya do a sit start on it (dunno, never tried). Otherwise, I don't recall any issues with the start. Always felt as though it was one particular jam/lock about 4-6 feet or so from the top.

BTW, Illusiondweller, with all the time you spent on the hill, I would have figured that you would have danced up and down RC numerous times roped and cordless! As you suggested, downclimbing is more of a psychological problem, and generally speaking, somewhat harder technically. But, physically/technically, if its a 10a, then downclimbing it seemed no harder than a 10b, imho!

So, not sure where yer heads at Burch3y, but to onsight solo it up and down wud be a kool personal endeavor/accomplishment, imo! Not that it matters in the grand scheme of things, but, from then on ya'd be known as Burl3y Burch3y (in Woodson lore, anyway). ;)

Regardless, Woodson (and climbing in general, for that matter) is all about good times and having fun. Whether its tr'ing all day or hitting your solo circuit late in the afternoon, or whenever. And it looks like you guys were having just that, lots of fun. Kudos!

Apparently climbing hard stuff makes you get better? Or something?
Fer shur!

Woodson has it all, thin, wide, crimping, smearing, mantels, laybacks, overhangs, underclings, dynos, etc! You develope technique and get physically stronger and psychologically more competent in the process. And, most likely, after a long day on the hill you'll sleep better at night also.

I just held on to the start of SB on our way down after a day of climbing

Yep, on the way down after a long day, its a great final core body workout/pump. And it's also close to the road. Doesn't really matter how far you get on it, cuz, one thing is for sure, you'll get stronger no matter. And, I will say this, that problem (as a pure undercling/no kneelocks) does involve technique (which is subtle, but crucial, imo). That, along with pure power, is how its done. Persistence pays off. And you can then apply it to most underclings you might later encounter. Plus, you get stronger in the process. ...just sayin.

EDIT: BTW, first time I climbed (and soloed) R0bbins Crack it was in a clunky pair of Robbins boots (blue boots), then later in EB's and Fire's/sticky rubber, etc! If your solid on 5.9, most .10's, and at least occasionally successful on .11's, then ya can 3'rd RC. I did it back in '71 within the first few months climbing (total n00b)...not to smart perhaps, but never the less...! No big deal, either way. TR it a couple times, and then you'll see what I mean.

Regarding CL, over the course of a few months he top roped it, led it and then soloed it, all at the tender age of 4. I was there the day he led it. He later went on (about 5 years old) and led some .12's (Starving In Sterio, for instance). Looked like he was having fun. Or, at least I hope he was. Like I said, that's what its all about, so disregard anything I have said that would be contrary to that in relation to yerself!!!
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