Pinnacles Trail Work and Climbing

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socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 28, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
Had a great weekend mending trail and doing some climbing at the Pinns east side. Curious if someone knows, maybe Brad, how many ascents of Erik's Folly are known. We did Steve's Folly into Erik's on Sunday and initially thought no one had been up there, pretty horrible rock covering a fantastic wide climb...

Charles
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Oct 28, 2013 - 05:39pm PT
Yes, that was a very fun and fantastically productive weekend. I am continually impressed and pleased with how well the Park Service and climbers interact at Pinns.



how many ascents of Erik's Folly are known. We did Steve's Folly into Erik's on Sunday and initially thought no one had been up there, pretty horrible rock covering a fantastic wide climb…


I only know of Dennis' first ascent, and then my own lead of it. I don't remember even hearing anyone else mention that route, much less consider climbing it. At the risk of sounding patronizing, can I say that your choice of what to routes to climb at Pinnacles is very impressive? No-one could ever argue that you're just following the crowds around, that's for sure!
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2013 - 07:18pm PT
Maybe thirds are Brandon and I's calling, let us know after you bag Icarus, we'll head up after you...

Charles
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 28, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
sweet mudder of all that is filthy, why on earth would you do that one?

LOL

socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2013 - 07:50pm PT
Cause if we don't climb the falling apart stuff there won't be any good stories... know anyone talking about how epic Verdict is? I don't...

Charles
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 28, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
Verdict is what? A1+
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Oct 28, 2013 - 08:07pm PT


Cause if we don't climb the falling apart stuff there won't be any good stories... know anyone talking about how epic Verdict is? I don't...


That's the best and funniest comment I've heard about Pinns climbing in a long, long time.

Our rebolting on Icarus went well yesterday. We replaced five bolts with long, stainless Rawl six-piece bolts. Of the five bolts that we replaced, two were screw-top, quarter inch style and both of those broke off very easily and quickly (at the threads). One of the three Star Dryvins that I pulled out took only muscle power on my bar, followed by one hammer hit. It then came out with a half-moon shaped, half inch deep chunk of rock. All three of the cruddy bolts were in the aid bolt ladder. I used all three both times I led that pitch; in hindsight I'm a little surprised that they held my weight! I patched the three holes from the Star Dryvins (and two new holes I made that had failed at about half an inch deep) very carefully.

I'll let you know if/when we do the route (we intend to try it during the third week of November). It scares me, but at least now I'm pretty certain that, if I fall at the free climbing cruxes on the second pitch, I won't rip out 40 year old bolts.
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
That's good to hear! We were hoping that went well. Looking forward to hearing/reading the TR.

Charles
Brandon Adams

Big Wall climber
Monterey, CA
Oct 29, 2013 - 10:31am PT
Ha! I'm glad I stumbled on this thread. Erik's Folly was indeed a memorable adventure. If the rock was solid it would be a great pitch. Its still great as it is... just a little more exciting. A super fun and productive weekend for sure.

Im glad to hear that the Icarus project is moving along as planned Brad.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Oct 30, 2013 - 01:52pm PT
I didn't take any photos of this event, but there are many very good ones on the Mud'n'Crud forum:

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=1933.msg23876;topicseen#new
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 30, 2013 - 01:59pm PT
Obscure of the obscure for sure.

Icarus, have fun with that one!

Jesus, after that elephant rock (never forget) route, I like to stay on the O6-O7 grades.
thetennisguy

Mountain climber
Yuba City, CA
Oct 30, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
It was a great weekend at the Pinnacles and I'm hoping to make this an annual event! Kudos to all the organizers and sponsors, rangers. We did a lot of work but there's more that can and will be done!
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