why are aid ratings so lame?


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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 11, 2013 - 08:29am PT
What am I?

In the 60's I think I weighed a buck 40.
70's I was told I likely weigh only 120.
Now the locals say with a readjustment to modern
calibartions I might weigh barely 90.
Saddly unless I sit down I'll never truly no how
big my sac is.

An aid rating system that is both closed and based
on conjecture.

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Oct 11, 2013 - 08:47am PT
Aid ratings done properly are not lame.

But when some asshat drills a hole ladder 18 inches apart, calls it A6+ and then gets an award for doing so.... well that goes beyond lame

Oct 11, 2013 - 08:48am PT
LOL ....
Magic Ed

Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
Oct 11, 2013 - 08:56am PT
In the mountains there are only two ratings, either you can do it or you can't.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 11, 2013 - 08:57am PT
Numerical masturbation would be a better description.

Big number turns into little, limp number once the excitement dies down and someone else is in the room.

Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2013 - 09:42am PT
Or a string of enhanced hooks called A3?

a hole by any other name is still an A hole.

Social climber
Los Angeles currently St. Antonin, France
Oct 11, 2013 - 09:48am PT
Cue up Kalous rant somebody!

Social climber
Oct 11, 2013 - 10:03am PT
Because aid climbing gives someone the ability to force a line where a line maybe doesn't exist? It would be like a free route established with epoxied holds. Why bolt on holds to make it 5.14 when you can bolt on holds to make it 5.10 :)

A hole is a hole, right?

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Oct 11, 2013 - 10:08am PT
Cue up Kalous rant somebody!

cf. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boQHYBhlOcs


Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Oct 11, 2013 - 10:37am PT
Just go where there are no ratings.


Trad climber
Oct 11, 2013 - 10:41am PT
a hole is a hole
and whats this bad talk about epoxyd grips?

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Oct 11, 2013 - 10:45am PT
I've got to admire Mt10910's ability to create controversy over climbing topics. Keep keeping us lively!

Rivet hanger

Trad climber
Oct 11, 2013 - 10:52am PT
I don't forget batheads, a tedious book and 30 years of misticism...


Bungwater Hollow, Ida-ho
Oct 11, 2013 - 11:07am PT
There are aid ratings?

Who knew?
Wade Icey

Trad climber
Oct 11, 2013 - 11:18am PT
get up there and change them.

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Oct 11, 2013 - 11:20am PT

I'm starting a new system...

What used to be called A0 can now be referred to as BBP1...

The Larry

Moab, UT
Oct 11, 2013 - 11:49am PT
French free.
The Larry

Moab, UT
Oct 11, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
Nylon jugs.

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 11, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
I used to post like mt, I got better.



Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Oct 11, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
Bolt ladder =A0
40' slab falls from microhooking above 20 year old Z-macs = A3+
Deeply trenched leadheads every 18 inches = A6+

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