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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Oct 10, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
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I dig the rack beta:-)
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Oct 10, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
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Yes. Kevin Andrews and Ken Bokelund did the second in 2001 or 2002..
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Oct 10, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
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going up the right side of great roof! YIKES!!!!!!!!!!!!
good work erik!
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Oct 11, 2013 - 12:31am PT
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That A5 pitch makes you wonder whats is up...
Looks fun. And mysterious. I would have to agree with Klaus, hard to believe the left side of the GR is A4. Maybe the whole texas flake moves when you climb it on that side!
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2013 - 12:34am PT
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Right on. Can someone ask Kevin or Ken for rack beta? I remember he said it was a great route.....put up by three brothers, how could you go wrong?
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Oct 11, 2013 - 01:38am PT
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While I was making that topo, I thought it would be fun to climb it from the Great Roof up...where it stops being slabby and the cracks start getting SPLITTER! Check it out on Xrez to really fill up your stoke-tank!
Yeah...no way that stuff is A4...but that is what the most recent beta says, so that what that pitch will get. At least until someone goes up there and finds out otherwise!
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ec
climber
ca
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Oct 11, 2013 - 10:13am PT
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Leversee, myself and one other attempted a SA BITD. We turned back after not being able to get thru the 5th pitch. I thought that pitch to be contrived hook/bolting, but what do I know. I just know after whipping like 30+ after breaking a micro hook placement, it became impassable to my eye. I don't believe our topo had '5.11, A4,' just A4.
 ec
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Sonora
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Oct 11, 2013 - 10:21am PT
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Hey ec!
I pulled that rating directly off the FA topo. Who knows what shenanigans the Gellegos used to get through the "Placa Grande" (huge slab).
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whitemeat
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Oct 11, 2013 - 10:39am PT
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yea I ment left left side, haha
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Kenny b
Big Wall climber
Truckee CA
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Oct 12, 2013 - 11:52am PT
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I did the second with Kevin .very cool route. The hard part of the great roof is getting started off the belay.i remember expanding cam hook and hooks with a short but bad fall potential before it gets Easier.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 12, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
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Aid climbing is bondage.
Nose goes free.
Caveman climbs to the left of free climb to remain in bondage .....
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Oct 12, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
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Yo Kenny!!
Welcome!!!
Bad to the Bone Backflip stories??
Riding the surfboard??
" You thought you were going to die!??!"
Do tell..
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 12, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
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Hey Ken,
It's Pete. Think last time we spoke was on the summit. Would love to hear your Bad to the Bone stories! I've done Born Under a Bad Sign and Bad Seed, and I need to climb BttB to complete my Bad Trilogy.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 12, 2013 - 01:50pm PT
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Kenny b- The word on Mediterraneo after the FA was "50 bolts, 50 hooks and 50 copperheads." What did you find up there?
One of the scariest placements on the Turning Point was a bathead on this route. Rusty mild steel cable just a couple of years old almost blowing apart as I had to stand on it looking at a 100 footer. I took a fifty footer lower on the same pitch and ran several more hook placements together before I had to trust their POS.
I saw lots of fixed pin and tat stations on their route as I did the Turning Point.
The Gallegos brothers ran fixed lines well into the Grey Bands which hadn't been done since the Dihedral Wall went up. With these three as the grandfathers of Spanish wall climbing it is no wonder that their scene has been so retrograde.
The fact that the Gallegos brothers own the biggest slow on earth is utterly laughable. It does explain why King Richard of Hindsight chose to do battle with Spain. LOL
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 12, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
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The Gallegos brothers ran fixed lines well into the Grey Bands which hadn't been done since the Dihedral Wall went up. Actually, Ray Jardine had 42 ropes fixed up to Camp 5 on the Nose in 1980 when he and partners were working on freeing it.
http://www.rayjardine.com/adventures/Climbing/climbing_log/index.htm
But that is a bit different than doing the FA of an aid wall.
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nopantsben
climber
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Oct 12, 2013 - 03:26pm PT
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With these three as the grandfathers of Spanish wall climbing it is no wonder that their scene has been so retrograde.
you obviously have no idea...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 12, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
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nopantsben- Do you think that the American or Canadian wall climbing traditions would produce a guy like Pelut?
A6+ from a line of holes...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 12, 2013 - 05:00pm PT
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Judging by nationality is a bad idea. There is a diversity in every population....
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Oct 12, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
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Judging by nationality is a bad idea. There is a diversity in every population....
Yup.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Oct 12, 2013 - 05:15pm PT
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Have a sense of humour guys...
With Pelut and Rivet Hanger, the proud Spanish cockerels crowing so loudly the topic is on the table.
Happy Now backedit Boy?!?
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