Discussion Topic |
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Mark K
Social climber
San Marcos, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 13, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
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What would it be?
Qualifiers: It has to top out and it has to be 5.10- or easier (I'm coming off of a shoulder injury).
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
pdx
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Sep 13, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
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walt bailey memorial.
new wave to assembly line
Probably the best way to the top under 5.10-
el cracko is good too
Bryan
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Sep 13, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
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Assembly Line , 5.9 perfect hands , the top out pitches are a little ratty.
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Sir Bryan
Trad climber
MN
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Sep 13, 2013 - 04:10pm PT
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+1 for el cracko (this time of year it gets shade around 3pm)
If you are trying to stay on the shady side, I recently did assembly line if you do the patent pending finish you get to go caving! bring a 70M rope link P1 and 2 to the teachers lounge climb P3 of assembly line (9-) go left from the anchor to the cave the 70M rope will also help you to reach the top via patent pending finish from the anchors, if all you have is a 60M you have to build an anchor before the last gully scramble. watch out for the thorns ;)
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
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Sep 13, 2013 - 04:13pm PT
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5.8: El Cracko (or Bon Homme Var)
5.9: Soler (or Assembly Line, or Walt Bailey)
5.10-: Tulgey Wood (kind of mungey for the top out)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Sep 13, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
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A second vote for Assembly Line.
edit: or third or fourth... guess that's your answer.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Sep 13, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
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BonHOmme Variation
5.8 Locker hands
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Bschmitz
Ice climber
pdx
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Sep 13, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
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The second pitch of Tulgey is a beast. I took 4 #4 BDs. It is a lot of fists!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 13, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
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I'd vote Tulgey Wood, though you can't go wrong with any of the choices suggested so far!
Edit TW = Vedauwoo 5.9
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Sep 13, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
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I'd want to do one with Shanti!!!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Sep 13, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
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always wondered what the attraction is. DT strikes me as a novelty climb at best.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 13, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
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You're not a climber, I take it...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 13, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
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Deffinately mystery express all bolts no need to mess with that pesky gear.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 13, 2013 - 08:19pm PT
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I hear that that Frank guy is a made up, imaginary, climber...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 13, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
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McCarthy West FV is 10b does that qualify as 10-. Full value really kick ass sustained route up one of the biggest best faces fingers, hands, stem box, offwidth, chimney, face jugs at the top, and a huge viewing gallery. Nothing better.
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SicMic
climber
two miles from Eldorado
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Sep 13, 2013 - 09:51pm PT
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West Face a nice choice if you want something physical. Bon Homme very nice for a great multi to the top. Some of those one-pitches are good, but it's more fun to get into that junky stuff near the summit. Solo Durrance is sweet if you can figure out how to avoid the crowds.
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Sir Bryan
Trad climber
MN
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Sep 13, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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ITS TRUE ITS TRUE! Frank is not a real man............HE IS A LIVING BREATHING LEGEND
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storer
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Sep 13, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
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Durrance route. Circa '71 on way to the Tower from back east my partner was bitten by a rattler in the badlands. Hospital in Kadoka and crutches for her tossed that plan so never did it...years later still wonderin'. Do it, IMO.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 13, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
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Hmmm, I thought it was bullsh#t, but maybe there is something to that myth...
I thought he looked more like his, though;
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