Accident at Lover's Leap on Sunday

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 96 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Snowmonkey

Ice climber
San Carlos, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 9, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
There was a climbing accident on Lover's Leap on Sunday, around 11am. We have observed a fire and rescue team loading an injured person onto a litter at the base of Main Wall, just left of The Line. A CHP chopper hovered close to the wall and to the ground and winched the litter onboard. If anyone knows what happened please post the details so that the rest of us could learn and hopefully avoid (pulled gear? broken hold?)

With that, wishing the speedy recovery and better luck to the injured party.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Sep 9, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
damn, climbed bears reach that morning very early and saw the ambulance pulling in as a i left strawberry around 12 but i don't know anything. best wishes to those involved.
rnevius

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
I pulled some gear from BR this morning. If any of it belongs to the injured, I'd like to return it.
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Sep 9, 2013 - 06:34pm PT
FYI Snowmonkey, left of the Line would be the EAST WALL, not the Main Wall...

Not being a smartass, just clarifying...
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Sep 9, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
hey there say, all... prayers and well wishes for all those involved...

thanks for sharing...
rnevius

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
Word is that a guy decked on Bear's Reach from 40' up on the first pitch. He was pulling on a flake after the 5.6 runout and pulled two of his three pieces. He landed on the flat, sandy area and not the surrounding talus. Climbers on Scimitar had a cell phone and called 911. Apparently, he may just end up with broken ribs and a bumped noggin. His belayer also got smacked in the head by a cam that ripped. Neither were wearing helmets.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Sep 9, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
Ouch,
glad he's gunna be alright.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Sep 9, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
Lucky.

Speedy recovery.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Sep 9, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
the little layback move to the top of that little corner might be the crux of the climb. Sounds like they got pretty lucky. That is a long way to deck from.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Sep 9, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
I know that exact move and agree that's probably the routes crux.
The entire route has tricky pro and is not exactly a beginners 5.7 imho. Not saying they were beginners, but 2 pieces did rip and there is reasonably good pro to be had on that first section.
Lucky guy if no helmet.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 9, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
climber goes up climber falls, gear fails. Well thats new....



Good luck for a full recovery to the climber, and may he learn some NUT CRAFT instead of plug and go bullsheet.
rnevius

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
Ron, both a stopper and a cam blew. I think it's just the "craft" in general that needs some work.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Sep 9, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
In order to appease Ron everyone needs to do this route in hob-nailed boots with a clothesline like he did back in '49.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Sep 9, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
ohhwwcmon now.. EBs will be fine...

Now having watched a few climbers recently, as they plugged and went, the little runners, mostly draws that they were using did not allow freedom of rope movement without affecting each and every piece they were placing ( all cams). As they climbed the rope movement had each placement moving and walking. Some were OBVIOUSLY over cammed, and others under cammed. I shook my head looking at the accident in the waiting ..My "advice" to them was met with a low grunt and a turned shoulder. I didnt try to reiterate anything.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Sep 9, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
i agree, that little layback section after the traverse left on dikes is probably the crux of that climb. sorry to hear about the injured, but it sounds like they got pretty lucky, all things considered. here's to a speedy recovery.
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 11:21pm PT
all best to all involved.

Yea, that move was the only one on my first trip up the BR that made me stop and try a few uneasy moves to gain that little ledge. super slick feet.

We might be up there Sunday. Hope it's not smokey
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 12:39am PT
Here's the route
rnevius

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 12:47am PT
As if climbing videos shot on GoPro's weren't dizzying enough, now we have a speed spraying..err soloing video.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 03:19am PT
Not spraying
Hoping somebody could comment where it ACTUALLY happened.
And that wasn't that fast so get over it.
This vid has been on STopo for over a year.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Sep 10, 2013 - 05:46am PT
at 1:04, jay.
the slick spot mentioned up thread.
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