Accident at Lover's Leap on Sunday

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Snowmonkey

Ice climber
San Carlos, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 9, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
There was a climbing accident on Lover's Leap on Sunday, around 11am. We have observed a fire and rescue team loading an injured person onto a litter at the base of Main Wall, just left of The Line. A CHP chopper hovered close to the wall and to the ground and winched the litter onboard. If anyone knows what happened please post the details so that the rest of us could learn and hopefully avoid (pulled gear? broken hold?)

With that, wishing the speedy recovery and better luck to the injured party.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Sep 9, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
damn, climbed bears reach that morning very early and saw the ambulance pulling in as a i left strawberry around 12 but i don't know anything. best wishes to those involved.
rnevius

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 04:59pm PT
I pulled some gear from BR this morning. If any of it belongs to the injured, I'd like to return it.
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Sep 9, 2013 - 06:34pm PT
FYI Snowmonkey, left of the Line would be the EAST WALL, not the Main Wall...

Not being a smartass, just clarifying...
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Sep 9, 2013 - 07:16pm PT
hey there say, all... prayers and well wishes for all those involved...

thanks for sharing...
rnevius

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
Word is that a guy decked on Bear's Reach from 40' up on the first pitch. He was pulling on a flake after the 5.6 runout and pulled two of his three pieces. He landed on the flat, sandy area and not the surrounding talus. Climbers on Scimitar had a cell phone and called 911. Apparently, he may just end up with broken ribs and a bumped noggin. His belayer also got smacked in the head by a cam that ripped. Neither were wearing helmets.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Sep 9, 2013 - 07:57pm PT
Ouch,
glad he's gunna be alright.
michaeld

Sport climber
Sacramento
Sep 9, 2013 - 07:58pm PT
Lucky.

Speedy recovery.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Sep 9, 2013 - 08:10pm PT
the little layback move to the top of that little corner might be the crux of the climb. Sounds like they got pretty lucky. That is a long way to deck from.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Sep 9, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
I know that exact move and agree that's probably the routes crux.
The entire route has tricky pro and is not exactly a beginners 5.7 imho. Not saying they were beginners, but 2 pieces did rip and there is reasonably good pro to be had on that first section.
Lucky guy if no helmet.
rnevius

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
Ron, both a stopper and a cam blew. I think it's just the "craft" in general that needs some work.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Sep 9, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
In order to appease Ron everyone needs to do this route in hob-nailed boots with a clothesline like he did back in '49.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Sep 9, 2013 - 10:08pm PT
i agree, that little layback section after the traverse left on dikes is probably the crux of that climb. sorry to hear about the injured, but it sounds like they got pretty lucky, all things considered. here's to a speedy recovery.
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 11:21pm PT
all best to all involved.

Yea, that move was the only one on my first trip up the BR that made me stop and try a few uneasy moves to gain that little ledge. super slick feet.

We might be up there Sunday. Hope it's not smokey
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 12:39am PT
Here's the route
rnevius

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 12:47am PT
As if climbing videos shot on GoPro's weren't dizzying enough, now we have a speed spraying..err soloing video.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 03:19am PT
Not spraying
Hoping somebody could comment where it ACTUALLY happened.
And that wasn't that fast so get over it.
This vid has been on STopo for over a year.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Sep 10, 2013 - 05:46am PT
at 1:04, jay.
the slick spot mentioned up thread.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Sep 10, 2013 - 06:40am PT
Bummer for the climbing team.
I hope they both have a full and speedy recovery.

Weeg, that lie back move is the actual spot?
I ask because the first person with info just said "...40' up..." Then somebody throws out that the linebacker is the crux (which could be, it is a 5.7 move).

That seems like an odd place to deck as u can get super easy bomber gear in that flake making for like a 1-2 foot fall. I was thinking more likely the traverse to the flake as an entry level climber could struggle with gear getting to the traverse, then there is none on the traverse till u get to the well protected lieback..

Guess it's not that important, just curious.

Again, heal up!


EDIT
in my GoPro (previous page) vid you can see that the lieback flake will just eat gear
Bad Climber

climber
Sep 10, 2013 - 08:50am PT
Yeah, it always seemed I got bomber gear in that crack, but then again, I've never fallen on the route and done it many, many times over the last 35 years. It was the first route I did there when I was 15 back in--gulp--'77.

How did that happen?

Glad the lad is going to be okay. Could have easily been a lot worse.

BAd
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