bugaboos conditions

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nopantsben

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 8, 2013 - 03:38pm PT
how are the approaches in the bugaboos at the moment?
has it snowed yet? how cold is it up high?
thanks!!

ps. we don't have internet for too much longer...
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Sep 8, 2013 - 04:18pm PT
Well, you will definitely need pants Ben.
nopantsben

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2013 - 04:25pm PT
f*#kin a!

how about ice gear?
Cloudraker

Sport climber
San Diego, CA
Sep 8, 2013 - 04:27pm PT
ice gear for the Bugs in August????

Better haul them up the trail just in case
nopantsben

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
not for iceclimbing. doh.

how about an intelligent answer???
harryhotdog

Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
Sep 8, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
I think crampoons and a light weight ice axe would be prudent at this time of year judging by the pic in the recent Bugaboo tr. I have been there in mid September with ok weather. Of course the trip ended when it snowed a heap.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Sep 8, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
At Dawn, facing an an icy death slope in your glacier sneakers with no ability to hack steps for 100m can only end in tears.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 9, 2013 - 11:21am PT
See September 5 general conditions report
http://www.acmg.ca/mcr/archives.asp
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Sep 9, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
That weather link is a good resource to follow. Also, if you check out the 'chick on ice' TR you can get a sense of how much the cols are changing. If you're still thinking about the East Creek, weather may play a pretty huge role in success or failure. Something for nothing, I got word last week from some folks up at Applebee and it sounds like folks are wrapping up their projects for the season and heading on to other climes.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 9, 2013 - 04:05pm PT
Ben, i think it's a bit late for the Bugaboos.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Sep 9, 2013 - 04:09pm PT
east face of Snow patch, cresent spires etc would be fine, if a little chilly when the sun leaves the face. Not much inclined ice and bergshrunds for those routes, but everything else you better have poons and ice axe.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 9, 2013 - 06:52pm PT
Credit: chick_on_ice
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Bugaboos-Pikas-Gushers-and-Honey/t12119n.html
SeanYang

Mountain climber
Portland, Oregon
Sep 9, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
I was there two weeks ago.
It was iffy when using the B-S col. Rock falls on the right side are a big concern. There is a fixed rope to help you negotiate the climb up the col once you are over the crevasse/bergschrund (as of August 27). People are inclined to use the Pigeon-Snowpatch rappel route on the way down instead. Crescent spire and towers are good options to avoid afternoon rain/snow.

Have a good time and be safe. There was a fatal accident involving a father-daughter team before I got there. The father was the victim. Very sad situation.

Sean
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Sep 9, 2013 - 07:24pm PT
hey there say, nopantsben...

hope you get all the info you need and have a great and as well, safe, time...
hope to see neat trip report, too...

clint, say, very nice photo, thanks for sharing...
:)
nopantsben

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2013 - 08:26pm PT
Thanks all. Looks like we will have more fun and options next year..
We wouldve had to buy all the ice stuff thats lying at home too.
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