Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 5, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
Leaving in a few hours for only my second trip to Squamish, only have about 4 days so we plan to hit it pretty hard. Any must do moderate routes? New lines? Classics? Places to get away from weekend crowds? We climb about mid 10, some 11, but enjoy easy stuff too. Long routes would be good, trad even better!
Borderline to Angel's Crest is long and bolted for the 10d crux. Sunset Strip has cracks and you could bypass the final 5.9 (haha) chimney by finishing Europa. You may need to take into account climbs that do not dry quickly. If you didn't do Sunblessed, that could make your visit worthwhile. Just be advised it is a long way to the first bolt. If you go up there and decide it is no go, then get the info for Sunshine Breakfast as an alternative. Check the Quickdraw Publications site for free downloads.
So tomorrow looks like rain. You can still get a few climbs in though if you're willing to put up with the weather. Nightmare Rock at Murrin park will be dry under the granddaddy overhang. There are a couple good different pitches anywhere from 10a-12a.
Or you could go to chek, and climb at the circus or main event walls which usually stay fairly dry thanks to the massive big show roof. It's bolt clipping but it's dry.
Then saturday it's supposed to dry up so you guys should go do the Grand Wall. It goes at 11a a0 and it sounds like you are totally ready for it. Take Apron Strings to the base of Merci Me. Link the first two pitches and if you're really feeling comfortable simul the next pitch into the Split pillar, one of the most amazing corners in Squamish.
Sunday go cragging somewhere if you're not too bagged. Smoke Bluffs if it's cool, Murrin if it's hot.'you can jump in the lake after.
Monday, hit Milk Road. It's just as good as the Grand and goes at 11a (10d depending on who you talk to) the Milk Run Corners simply must be experienced by any 5.10 climber. The upper one is quite pumpy and steep so bring lots of gear if you're gonna want pro often.
You'll love it! The crescent tower is really cool too and a typical squamish dyke exit, which is no gimme.
Go check out bizla sweets, not far from climb on for cheap samosas and other indian
Come by psyche ledge on Saturday night for the annual Psyche Ledge Party. It would be cool to meet you.