Re-Animator...

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jcory86

Big Wall climber
Grass Valley, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 28, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
Trying to find out pertinent info on Re-animator:

-has anyone done it recently?
-lots of fixed gear or no?
-really, how many heads? Can't I bring more beaks?
-is a #6 necessary or can one get through the 6.5" section on the topo with groveling and a 5?
-speed record on this route?

gonna be there the 13th for it.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Aug 28, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
Reanimator
11:56 Chris McNamara and Jacob Schmitz. June 1999

http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/washington-column

 - - -

I've heard that it'd been spitting people off a while ago due to a feature being missing or something like that, but that's third-hand info at best.
RP3

Big Wall climber
Sonora
Aug 28, 2013 - 01:32pm PT
I did it in 2010. A feature is gone on pitch 4. It is bypassed by some (spicy!) A3+ hooking in batholes.

We did not place any heads although a handful are fixed.I don't think that the head placements would readily accept beaks. Bring the recommended head rack in case you rip a bunch.

Bring the #6. That part is WIDE and ugly.

Tons of fun. We called it "aid-sport climbing". Lots of hooking between rivets. Killer position. ENJOY!
E

Ice climber
mogollon rim
Aug 28, 2013 - 02:04pm PT
done it twice...broke in a new girlfriend on my second time up it.
as a sidenote we did it completely clean xcept one arrow that i nailed in on the second to last pitch. and that was only because she was pissing me off for many reasons. Theresa a ton of fixed heads on the give em enuf rope pitch and others so it really wouldnt of been clean anyway. wild country micros got used on the hangin curtin of rock pitch. got tooled by leo and a ticket for huckin shitbags on that as well.

that is an awesome route that is for sure the best one on the column

E
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Aug 28, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
that is an awesome route that is for sure the best one on the column

hmmmm if this is true sounds like another column wall is in order.....after southern man
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Aug 28, 2013 - 02:43pm PT
Credit: pyro
i rope-solo first three pitches in winter. i bailed cuzz of the nerves!!
good look'n wall route.
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Aug 28, 2013 - 02:43pm PT


klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Aug 28, 2013 - 02:48pm PT
I don't know what it's current state is but I'll try to find pics and write a bit about it later.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Aug 28, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
We did it a couple days after the Cmac record. Fantastic Route. Great job By Walt and Eric. the hanging curtain is one of the coolest features I've ever experienced. Awesome. I hope it hasn't suffered from excessive traffic by mere mortals (relative to FA Party, not me).
jcory86

Big Wall climber
Grass Valley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2013 - 05:57pm PT
rp3 - thanks, I will bring the #6 and my old school #5. Any recommendations on hook selection?

J-tree - thanks for the link

klaus - that would be rad.

Wade - that sounds epic. Shiplery and Kohl are incredible.

So...judging by the speed record it's either a little time consuming or hasnt been tried in a push recently. We will be shooting for In-A-Day but
Im thinking its likely going to be on the 24 hour end or more.

Thoughts?
E

Ice climber
mogollon rim
Aug 28, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
so who ya climbin with?
jcory86

Big Wall climber
Grass Valley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2013 - 07:17pm PT
E - I have a 17 yr old kid that I know and have climbed half dome in a day with. I'm looking at trying to get whitemeat on the team.

I need to try and big wall with you tacoers more!! I always have lots of partners willing and then they all disappear when I want harder aid.
RP3

Big Wall climber
Sonora
Aug 28, 2013 - 07:34pm PT
Bring all hooks. Hooking is the name of the game on this one.

We spent 2.5 days on the route in October (the nights were long). It would be a proud push...GO GET IT!
E

Ice climber
mogollon rim
Aug 28, 2013 - 07:36pm PT
thats the nature of the game...dont worry its not bad at all
reach foe the sky my friend

Erik
klaus

Big Wall climber
Pacif*#ka Muthaf*#ka
Aug 28, 2013 - 08:42pm PT
Can't find the photos right now.

I did write an article about the FA with Walt and sent it to Climbing Magazine about 1993.

The editors at the time quickly rejected it and wanted nothing to do with what I had to say.

Bummer, look at Climbing Magazine today. It's a 20 page pamphlet filled with advertisements and tips for beginners.

they can't even give it away.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 28, 2013 - 08:49pm PT
Klaus, nowadays the barriers to publication (in an electronic form) are a lot lower... post it up if you still have it! No editors here. No paycheques either though.
jcory86

Big Wall climber
Grass Valley, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
Klaus!!!

I would love to see that article. Post it up.

Looks like this will be a fu?kin rad adventure. I've got all the hooks heads and screamers in the bag. I will work hard to leave the iron and the heads in the bag with the hammer until I'm way to gripped.

Ill be leading every pitch except p1, short fixing where I can and hauling a little bag on a 8mm static line.

Lower out line? I've got a 100 foot 7mm line. Enough? Maybe a 60' 6mm line to tag up the haul after short fixing?

Also, climbing mag was dumb to not listen to ya klaus. They have definitely gone downhill. I especially "liked" their "how to big wall" article last year.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Aug 28, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
I need to try and big wall with you tacoers more!!

I have monday through friday free all month....just sayin' ;)
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Aug 28, 2013 - 10:11pm PT
Bummer, look at Climbing Magazine today. It's a 20 page pamphlet filled with advertisements and tips for beginners.

+100. Majority of magazines talk about sport climbing/bouldering and which new gear you need to get into trad. That's about all. Last year there was an article with tips of how to improve crack climbing TECHNIQUE. One of the tips was to tape...that gave me brain freeze.
On the other hand I found an old climbing magazine with an article about Klaus and Pete Takeda (who pushed him off the roof a few years prior) doing a FA on Porcelain Wall (?). That article was entertaining to say the least.
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Aug 28, 2013 - 10:32pm PT
^I agree, although Alpinist seems to still have some cool articles / stories
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