Potential DEATH with SILENT PARTNER by RockExotica

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Ibex

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 21, 2013 - 03:42pm PT
I have used the Silent Partner on big walls before, and I know how to use it properly. Now, I have just bought a new rope (Beal Tiger Unicore Golden Dry, 10mm) and before I launch to climb a big route with it, I thought about testing it with my Silent Partner at home. Guess what; it does not work! I mean the drum locks but the rope runs through the clove hitch with very little resistance (30lb) and it does so even if I increase the speed of pulling (always making sure that the drum is locked). Yes, I have taken every care to make sure that I install the rope correctly - I have the manual in hand. WHAT IS GOING ON HERE? Does the Silent Partner works only with old ropes? I am totally disappointed, because I bought this new rope especially for using it with the Silent Partner. This is a VERY SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE.

Any feedback welcome.
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Jul 21, 2013 - 03:43pm PT


"Any feedback welcome."...























































"Yer GONNA die!!!"...

Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 21, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
slightly OT but i have the same thing going on with my old Soloist.
Not working on new, skinnier, slick rope. Was an ooops to find out 1/2 way up a pitch...
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Jul 21, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
How much weight did you put on the rope when you tested it?
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jul 21, 2013 - 03:51pm PT
he mentioned,, 30 lbs...

agree,, YUR gonna die!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Jul 21, 2013 - 03:55pm PT
Was that how much weight he used or how much resistance when he was pulling on it? I'm pretty sure mine wouldn't lock with any rope with only a small (30lb) load, it took a lot of force to lock it off. I don't have it anymore but that's how I remember it.

If a clove hitch works with the rope then the SP should work right?
Vulcan

Sport climber
Jul 21, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
No you are not going to die. You tested it first.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 21, 2013 - 03:58pm PT
I never understood why the rope would run with the drum rolling but not run when the drum stopped anyway. Good thing you tested it.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Jul 21, 2013 - 03:59pm PT
If a clove hitch works with the rope then the SP should work right?

That is the idea. Does a clove hitch on a 'biner slip with your new rope? SPs have many, many, many hours of successful lab and successful real-world testing but perhaps a new thin rope with silicon coatings may not be the best choice for soloing.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Jul 21, 2013 - 03:59pm PT
Dressed myself in green, I went down unto the sea.
Try to see whats goin down, try to read between the lines.
I had a feelin I was fallin, fallin, fallin,
I turned around to see,
Heard a voice al callin, lord you was comin after me.



rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Jul 21, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
Back the silent partner up with a squirrel suit and you should be good to go...
Ian Jewell

climber
Jul 21, 2013 - 04:06pm PT
there should be a scoring system for " YUR GONNA DIE ! "

first utterance , obviously , also stylish execution , extra points if the guy actually dies ( ? , maybe not )

however you slice it, FACT : LOCKER IS THE TRUE CHAMPION !!!!
pud

climber
Sportbikeville & Yucca brevifolia
Jul 21, 2013 - 04:08pm PT
"Potential DEATH with SILENT PARTNER by RockExotica"

"Inability to properly use equipment" might be a more accurate title.
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Jul 21, 2013 - 04:16pm PT
Hail to the Locker, forecaster of death...
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jul 21, 2013 - 04:21pm PT
they dont call em "silent partners" fer nothin.. U die, they dont talk..
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Jul 21, 2013 - 04:24pm PT
good one ron,
we should call 'em capone
from now on.
maldaly

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
Defective Rope
Ibex

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2013 - 04:55pm PT
Dudes, take it easy :-)
1) I know how to use the device, all right?
2) The rope is not "skinny" - it is a 10mm rope, and the SP is supposed to work with 9.8mm and even thinner ropes (according to manufacturer).
3) Yes, the rope is very slippery because it is new out of the box. My feeling is that it will work just fine with the SP after I take it to the crag a couple of times (top rope, rappel, just use).
4) The fact that the clove hitch works with a rope on a biner it does not mean that it should do so, necessarily, also on the thick drum of the SP.
5) Someone forgot Newton's 3rd law: "For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction." Asking whether I applied a stronger pull is a fool question. I wrote: I tried a faster pull but the resistance (after the drum is locked) did not increase sufficiently (max 40lb). THIS IS A SERIOUS FAULT.
6) With used ropes (I tested a 9.9mm and a 9.0mm) the SP locks completely, perhaps after a little slippage (I mean after the drum is locked), no more than 1ft max.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jul 21, 2013 - 05:18pm PT
Alrighty, then. . . I sent this link to Blanchard and here's his reply:

I just tried my SP on a Beal 9.8mm 'Golden Dry' that has been used one day (6 pitches of trad granite, one rappel). It locks up just fine. It 'slips' about 2 or 3 inches as the clove hitch tightens up, similar to what all ropes do.

Don't know if that helps, but. . . there ya have it.

Kath
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Jul 21, 2013 - 05:21pm PT
Test your rope with a clove hitch on a pull up or weight lifting bar or something then, out of curiosity.

Asking about force of pull is logical. Clove hitches work with friction and increase force = increased friction and then it locks. I wasn't sure if you tested it by dropping a 30 lb weight or if you just pulled on the rope and it felt like 30 lbs of resistance while slipping. The force that momentum transfers to the rope when it catches a fall is a whole lot more than the force of pulling on a tensioned rope. Pulling a rope "faster" doesn't increase the force on the rope much, it just increased the centripetal force within the silent partner, but it was already locked so it really wasn't doing anything.

Just trying to get a clear picture of what's going on, nothing too "foolish" here ;)
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