"Non ice climbing" California boy going to Alaska

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briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 9, 2013 - 08:57pm PT
I am not an ice climber....not yet at least. I'm going to Alaska for the second half of August. I'll be flying into Anchorage and making my way up to Denali National Park. Anyone have any beta for climbing up there for a non ice climbing trad / wall climbing non ice California boy who grew up on the beach??? ;) I'll be up there with my girlfriend, so doing some trad cragging / <8ish pitch moderate routes would be cool
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jul 9, 2013 - 09:10pm PT
Hatchers Pass/ Archangel Valley bout as good as it's gonna get.. Toto is a good but easy trad route. Archangel a truly fantastic little valley .. magical. There is another 3 pitch quality harder route up a bit further around the left on the same formation dunno the name .. it didnt have a name when I snagged all the fixed pins that Garvey put in it... lol

Oh man .. we do lack for easy access rock up there. Multipitch trad.!!?? haha not much pickins.

Ice though.. yeah lots of that..

PM me for some contacts to show you around if it can work out.
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Jul 9, 2013 - 09:49pm PT
briham89 - all of the Alaskan rock I've been on involved some ice climbing, too, but it looks like climbski2 has you covered...

The climbing gym in Anchorage and contacting the AAC Alaskan Section would be additional sources of info and folks who might get out with you.

Some online info here: http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Alaska/Anchorage_Area_Rock___Ice/

Have fun!

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 9, 2013 - 09:52pm PT
August is a good time to go to the Brooks Range - the skeeters will be dying
off towards the end of the month. Hatcher Pass - you don't go to The Great
Land to climb crappy choss even if the scenery is passable. I'd rather go fishing.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jul 9, 2013 - 10:02pm PT
Crappy choss?? Hatchers.. dude it's the finest rock we have to offer without another 300 miles of driving...

Just because one of my first exclamations about Yosemite was "the worst most obscure piece of rock they got here beats our best" doesn't mean it's bad does it?

I swear the stuff folks overlook in Yosemite we would completely grid bolt and climb till it ground to dust up there it would be so good.

No but seriously the first and 3rd pitch of Toto are really good..Even pretty good by Yosemite standards.
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 9, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
Up around Fairbanks there are: the Granite Tors, Mt Prindle (1 day hike in if you have high clearance 4wd), and strangely limestone at Pineapple rock. I don't really know where you would go for local approach beta, maybe Beaver Sports.

I would love for someone to set me straight about the real possibilities.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jul 9, 2013 - 10:04pm PT
^^^ Like I said another 300 miles of driving..heh
briham89

Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
thanks for the input everyone

Credit: someone on mountain project

Toto looks rad!
Hatcher is looking a little better than a "choss pile"

The climbing gym in Anchorage and contacting the AAC Alaskan Section would be additional sources of info and folks who might get out with you.

Thanks for the gym beta, I'll stop by there and pick their brains.
bergbryce

Mountain climber
California
Jul 9, 2013 - 11:55pm PT
Toto is quality.

Dear Gawd man, it's HATCHER Pass. Not Hatcher's. Didn't you go to school in Palmer??

Prezwoods here has a 2nd edition for his SC AK rock guidebook. It has about all the chossfests and a few non-chossfests covered.

http://www.alaskarockclimbing.com/

Alaska Mountain Forum used to be a good source for some stuff, but it looks defunct at the moment.

I think I have a bunch of Hatcher stuff digital, hit me up and I can see if I can find it. It is still adventurous if you move away from the obvious crags like the Monolith and the rock with Snowflake on it.

If you've got a few hours go do Sunshine Ridge south of Anchorage on the highway. Screw what everyone says about the rock quality, that is a route you'll never forget. 5.5(?) and probably 400'.


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