Bugaboos info sought.

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nopantsben

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 9, 2013 - 07:24am PT
hey. What is the best way to get from Calgary airport to the Bugaboos without renting a car? or is flying to Vancouver better? Is it even realistic? Is hitchhiking a good option around mid august?
is two weeks enough to have a decent chance for good conditions and weather on north howser, or is it too little?
cheers
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Jul 9, 2013 - 07:50am PT
Hey Ben,

I assume you have a partner, but my guess is there is no easy way to get in there from Calgary, unless you rent a car.

It was a long time ago when I went in there, but hitchhiking on a limited time basis, would be pretty sketchy. Sometimes you can get lucky with the weather.

A friend of mine did Howser last year and had great weather.
nopantsben

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2013 - 07:53am PT
hey Steve!
Yeah, I got a partner, but the car rental is so expensive:/
It doesn't look like public transport gets you anywhere near the trailhead. Bummer..
Maybe someone who drives there regularly from Calgary when the weather gets good reads this?!
What are your summer plans?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 9, 2013 - 08:18am PT
Ben.....I'll be in Tajikistan this August. Let's consider something for next year. How is Jacques?
Bugaboos are a little difficult to access. Try to team up with some Norte Americanos who are planning to go about the same time. Offer to split gas costs etc. from Calgaray.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jul 9, 2013 - 08:23am PT
I bet if you start a conversation with the calgary / canmore / banff crowd and stress the fact that you will be providing all fuel and beer costs with a really nice meal thrown in something will work out just fine. I have no idea what the best blog site is but you could try here to start:

http://www.gravsports-ice.com

Calgary mountain club and Alpine club of Canada is another likely source, maybe even best (notorious piss tanks)

2 weeks will be fine and don't just limit yourself to the howsers. There is a stack of 5 star modern routes right above appleby campsite on snowpatch and bugaboo.
nopantsben

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2013 - 08:24am PT
Jim,
yes most definitely! We should try to do something next year, yeah. That would be great.
My dad is well! We will climb in the Valley together this September. Looking forward to that.
Hopefully we can find someone to split gas and maybe won't have to rent a car. Although the Howser tower does look like it's worth a little investment.
Could you be into climbing at the Creek this November?
Bruce, thanks for the info!!
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Jul 9, 2013 - 08:24am PT
Ben,

I only remember a small general store in Brisco, where the dirt road leads into the trail head, but that was 45 years ago.

Things change, but I expected there was no public transportation. Try posting on other climbing forums and perhaps you could hook a ride in with someone.

I'm heading back to Ambush Peak with Terry and 5 others.

Good Luck! Steve
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 9, 2013 - 08:25am PT
Yes for the Creek in November.
steveA

Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
Jul 9, 2013 - 08:27am PT
Damn Jim--you sure do get around---I'm envious!!

Steve
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jul 9, 2013 - 08:32am PT
something else ... the modern stuff is so modern its hard to find beta on it. Try here for acquiring the best up to date topos etc plus another good source for travel beta.

http://alpinestyle.ca/

John Walsh is his name


oh! I just thought of something you might like..... If you'd like a FFA on the best free line on the minaret ( no butt cracks) go up on "Rienhold PussyCat". If you know Chris Wiedner or Bruce Millar call them up for beta. A couple of bolts and some freakin hard climbing across a 80 degree slabby wall then some thin tips and its all yours!
nopantsben

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2013 - 09:35am PT
i don't know bruce millar or chris weidner. but do you have an email address, or a topo of Rienhold PussyCat? you can PM me the email address, so it's not in the www.
is it an open project or are bruce and chris working on it?
thanks!!
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
Jul 9, 2013 - 11:05am PT
no I'm afraid not although I see CW is on Face book.

I'd say its open season on the route. It was a few years ago that the route went up and I'm sure they have other fish to fry
AlanDoak

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Jul 9, 2013 - 11:47am PT
Airport car rentals commonly have extra taxes: to pay for the airport, raise revenue from tourism/business travel, etc.
Taking a shuttle into town and renting a car at a non-airport office is usually cheaper. A quick search at Kayak.com looks like $56 instead of $105, a big difference. But still not cheap.

There are sometimes lower tier agencies that buy their fleet from the used stock of the brand name companies. The car might have 10k miles on it, but who cares, right?

Ask your insurance company and credit card company before you go whether or not you can decline the car rental insurance that they push on you.

Also, I sometimes found that a plane ticket and car rental to SeaTac is a much cheaper way to get to Squamish than flying into Vancouver and renting a car there. However, Montana might not have many options to serve you.
Winter

climber
Jul 9, 2013 - 02:07pm PT
You can take a bus from Calgary to Golden, BC and from there I'd bet that you can pretty easily find some locals or others headed into the Bugs to help get you to the trailhead - especially if you're willing to throw down some beer and gas money. Higher Ground Mountaineering in downtown Golden has a pretty helpful staff. Good luck! It'll be well worth the trip.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 9, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
Did any of you find the axle that fell off my Volvo 122 BITD? We were
bouncing around so much nobody noticed when it fell off.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jul 9, 2013 - 04:30pm PT
NoPants~When are you thinking of going?

In the meantime, dig these blogs:
Jon Walsh on Spicy Red Beans FFA (includes a link to a topo of the FA by the late Cameron Tague)
HyperPlainsDrifter (I think the line Bruce Kay is talking about is on here.)
Skagit Alpinism (Colin Haley's blog. Includes some shots of 'All Along the Watchtower')
Raphael Slawinski's bloghas some good shots from Watchtower as well.

A whole other approach would be to fly to Whitefish, MT and ride up with someone from there. eKat and Blinny, guitar maker, are nearby and might be able to connect you to locals.


WTF

climber
Jul 9, 2013 - 05:46pm PT
F*#king steal a car drive it out there do your climb and return the car from where you stole it.

Save your money and jump a ride with CMH and have them dump you and your gear at the base and then hike out.

I remember a guy paying about 200 for the ride. The guy dropped us on the snow cone at the base and told us when this thing lands you open the door and get out fast.


nopantsben

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2013 - 03:51am PT
So turns out I'm partnerless, and kind of pennyless. Yosemite it is then.
Thanks for all the good info. Much appreciated. Thread is saved and will be useful at some point for sure!
coastal_climber

Trad climber
north island
Jul 10, 2013 - 07:22am PT
Lame. Go to squamish
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