Surrealistic Pillar accident

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 51 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 7, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
Was at the leap today, unfortunately heard sirens and a helicopter. A woman pulled off a block and took a huge fall on the lower buttress. Anyone know her, is she ok?
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jul 7, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
Dammit, I haven't heard anything but have some friends that climb there regularly.
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Jul 7, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
I'm trying hard to remember, but doesn't SP have some known loose stuf on it? Hope all turned out okay. I've participated in one helicopter evac there already from a young woman who took a whipper on The Line.
Dr. Christ

Mountain climber
State of Mine
Jul 7, 2013 - 11:25pm PT
I'm trying hard to remember, but doesn't SR have some known loose stuf on it?

I don't have to try to remember... every route at the Leap has some known loose stuff on it. What a pile.
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jul 7, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
the only loose stuff i saw on SP was midway up p2 where the corner veers off to the right, but i've only been once and at that point there are multiple options out to the left.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
She went right into the rotten gully according to an eyewitness. They were almost killed by the rockfall, broke trees. The victim was unconscious and got a heli ride out.
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jul 8, 2013 - 01:35am PT
Here is the link to a story on the local blog site. Funny though, they say she was repelling with her husband on belay. Glad there is a credible news source to report on these climbing accidents!

http://www.laketahoenews.net/2013/07/climber-airlifted-from-lovers-leap-2/
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jul 8, 2013 - 01:37am PT
a boulder the size of a picnic?


and vibes. please get well.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Jul 8, 2013 - 01:47am PT
but that protectionless 60 foot slabeasy for the "3rd pitch" was awesome! go left at the top people, and traverse left early! condolences to the victims and best wishes.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Jul 8, 2013 - 02:01am PT
hey there say, oh my... sorry to be late to the taco, these last two days, :O


oh no... prayers and all, for her and for the family, and loved ones..

i have not yet read of the outcome, i hope all will get well for her...
got a grandkid here tonight, got to get off fast and sleep....

thanks for sharing, so folks can pray, and know how other are, as to
climbing buddies...
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Jul 8, 2013 - 02:06am PT
i think at that point she was off route a bit. i had a helmet cam on for that part of the climb and it shows some loose stuff. editing a little now.

video at half speed. at 16 seconds you can hear a noise just before i grab a flake. in real time the noise was simultaneous. the screenshot below is from the video looking to the right from the top of the left facing corner - https://vimeo.com/69869304

this is at the top of the corner. for her to get to those rocks and be in a position to fall that far she would have had to come up from below them, which means she would have had to have gone right before or right at the first belay. it could have been some higher rocks in the gully though
Credit: i'm gumby dammit
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jul 8, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
karodrinker
How'd Callie and your Dad take it?
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa
Jul 8, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
We saw the rescue. She was right and down of the rotten ledge - anybody know for sure what route she was on? For Real Crack?

My thoughts and prayers for her recovery
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Jul 8, 2013 - 02:41pm PT
There's some junk out that way for sure. My best in the unlucky party's recovery.
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2013 - 03:46pm PT
Fred, we were on the east wall during the rescue. Callie and dad were ok, we diddnt see it happen. We climbed surrealistic pillar later that day, avoiding the loose gully on the right.
TheTye

Trad climber
Sacramento CA
Jul 8, 2013 - 04:32pm PT
Ron- as I remember it from a couple months ago if you continue up through the OW mid second pitch it looks easier to continue up angling to the right but it keeps gettling chossier the higher you go. I followed a friend on the second pitch and he didn't traverse left until he was up that gully a ways and it was getting pretty broken up and ugly. Although he managed to avoid the entire lower runout staircase... I could see how the gully could suck you in because the traverse starts to look less and less inviting
Friedo

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jul 8, 2013 - 06:09pm PT
Ron,
SP was my first trad lead (linked with Corrugation, of coarse). I recall traversing left to the staircase and heading up, but retreating into the gully at one point to look for gear when I get a little scared. I realized it was a bad idea and just continued to run it out, rope drag and all.

I also have a friend I sent up there for his first Tahoe climb. He belayed form the gully even though I made it abundantly clear to NOT GO INTO THE GULLY ON THE RIGHT! He felt a little insecure and decided to set up a belay. The gully is the only place you can get any pro.

Point being, The gully is very inviting for people who are uncomfortable being 40 feet above their last piece of gear, even though the actual route is the equivalent of a ladder...
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Jul 8, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
Guess you really need to have climbed it in the past twenty years.
toyon

climber
Jul 8, 2013 - 07:09pm PT
That sucks. The 'gully' is a natural (read: intuitive) extension of the right-ish facing corner comprising the OW. If you keep going up, it gets tenuous. The alternative (aka the established route) cuts left around a very unintuitive and blind corner.

The Leap... man, its where i learned to climb and havent been in years but that place must see so much more traffic these days than i ever saw. Probabilities increase...
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
Jul 8, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
From a popular guidebook:

Credit: murcy
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