A very, very, very long rope is coming to El Capitain


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Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 7, 2013 - 01:29am PT
I'll be coming with a group that will be rappeling from the diving board. The rope should be hanging from the 13th to the 19th.

No jugging up it. there may be someone coming down.

You Yosar types may be interested in the haul system used to pull the rope up from the bottom ( I assume that is how it will be done, it may ride in on a mule.) In any case the last day should be interesting to you too. All the gear will be rappeled down in packs weighing in at about 100 pounds each. One guy has a rack that could handle more, but I don't know if he will be using it. Please note that when I say rack it means a rappel rack with break bars. My inner caver is showing.

See yall at the bridge.

Myrna aka Crazy Bat

Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
Jul 7, 2013 - 01:37am PT
YER FOR SURE.....................

gonna rapple off the end of your rope
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C.
Jul 7, 2013 - 01:41am PT
We have sad news for you.

There are apparently not one but two Diving Boards in Yosemite. However, both are on Half Dome. You will need quite a long rope to get from "El Capitain" to Half Dome - 10 km, anyway.


Social climber
Jul 7, 2013 - 01:58am PT

Jul 7, 2013 - 01:59am PT
I didn't know you were already back MH - good to see you again.
Crazy Bat

Sport climber
Birmingham, AL & Seweanee, TN
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 7, 2013 - 02:12am PT
Well that is what I was told it was called. I don't have a copy of the book around or I would let you know exactly where it will be rigged. I'll update after I get to Yosemite and find a copy.

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jul 7, 2013 - 02:48am PT
Hauling a bunch of rope and sh#t all that way to just slide down a rope...

sounds kinda lame dude. Is it challenging to slide down a rope? Is it even exciting? I always prefer a walk off to a rap.

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Jul 7, 2013 - 02:55am PT
Every year the ditch becomes more and more like a circus.

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV.
Jul 7, 2013 - 03:37am PT
Credit: Vegasclimber

Is Gugglemucci going to be the number 2 man on this team? Sounds like its right up his alley.

Jul 7, 2013 - 04:52am PT
this is awesome, get a grigri.

The Granite State.
Jul 7, 2013 - 05:24am PT
If I were you, I'd check in with Werner before you do this.

He works search and rescue in the park.

Oh, I almost forgot, YER GUNNA DIE!!!!,

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Jul 7, 2013 - 06:56am PT
I climbed the Salathe in 1981 with Blond Nick Donnelly:

Credit: jaaan

We arrived at the top quite late and started looking for the way down the East Ledges. We stumbled upon a tent with someone sitting outside it. She told us she was with a group of cavers that had set up a rope all the way down to the ground and they were jumarring up and rapping down it. Nick's eyes lit up... Suddenly realising what was going through his mind I grabbed him and ran off in the general direction of the East Ledges!

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Jul 7, 2013 - 07:37am PT
Oh, come on youse guys. Cavers set up single line rappels off El Cap all of the time. And yes, it is interesting I'm sure. The logistics or rappelling such a long rope are funky. The thing weighs a ton, so you need extra care just to get your rappelling rack going. Heat buildup on the rap is a concern, no?

And also, you can toprope that sh#t. Amirite? Sure I am.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jul 7, 2013 - 09:10am PT
Rap from the diving board? Sounds like something a TAG caver would do.

Hang 'Em High, TAG country
Descending 500 feet underground Hang 'Em High Cave, Tennessee
Descending 500 feet underground Hang 'Em High Cave, Tennessee
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat

Main Well, TAG country
Credit: Sierra Ledge Rat


Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jul 7, 2013 - 09:29am PT
Thanks for posting!

Always thought it would be fun. It's certainly no more absurd than what us climbers do.

Please post a TR and pics!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jul 7, 2013 - 09:38am PT
I used to like rappelling long drops ...

... until I started climbing them, instead. {wink}

If you ever want to know how to ascend a fixed rope, don't ask a climber, ask a caver. Cavers have nothing better to do with their time than perfect their jugging systems.

I would like to see someone try to put a caving rope through a Grigri - you know the tail of the rope weighs about 200 lbs, right?

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
Jul 7, 2013 - 10:35am PT
Holy CRAP. . . not this again!

I've seen this end in tragedy!

Blanchard and I were in the Valley for his solo of Tribal Rite (not to be confused with Tribal Left - HA!) And during the time that we were humping loads, a raft of cavers were trying to set some kind of world's record rapping a continuous line off ElCap. One of the guys didn't make it. It made a terrifying mess, just about at the base of the route.

I used to get ten kinds of wiggly when Blanchard would solo, but I always prided myself in staying strong and focused, organizing ground and summit support for him.

After fixing for days, he was ready to blast off and the scene at the base was SO TERRIBLE, I spoke with Ralph - but - as not to wig Blanchard out, I told him I inhaled a bug.


Good Grief. . . I hope this gang rap doesn't end the same way!


Jul 7, 2013 - 10:57am PT
You Yosar types may be interested in the haul system used to pull the rope up from the bottom.

We've been doing this for 40 years.

What's new that we don't know?

Social climber
Jul 7, 2013 - 11:13am PT
Hey Jaan, nice photo of Nick Donnelly!

Heard about this. Was it Peter Bosted, back in 1981, did this first?

I heard that about 6 guys all helped carry the rope up. They of course used caving racks for the descent. Clever trick was a bottle (or two?) of water with a spray nozzle of some kind to keep the rack cool.

Best of luck, Crazy Bat!

EDIT: Or maybe the person I knew who did this rappel was Chaz Young, another caver type....?
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jul 7, 2013 - 11:28am PT
I went caving with Peter last month in Hawaii. He is still hard at work underground.

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