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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 25, 2013 - 07:22am PT
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Hello, I need your help. I am near the top of the 3rd pitch of Nutcracker. I tried going left toward a spindly tree, got spooked and returned to my gear. I started straight up but am not sure it is the right way either. There is supposed to be a good stopper placement and I can't find it. Can someone on Supertopo, that has done the route, tell me which way to go? Meanwhile, I will sit out this storm. Don't worry I am hanging on some pretty good gear and await your answer. Thanks for the beta.
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RJNelson
climber
A few different places
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Jun 25, 2013 - 07:39am PT
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Guess this was bound to happen...
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 07:52am PT
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Thanks Ekat. You are very kind. I don't need a rescue yet. Just waiting to hear where to go for that stopper placement so I can finish the climb. I am gonna send.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2013 - 08:10am PT
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I am sure glad I brought another cell phone battery. The rain has lessened and it is getting light soon. I am feeling pretty good about this.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jun 25, 2013 - 08:54am PT
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El Cap Pics had his telephoto aimed at you. He says he can clearly see at least 20 pieces of fixed gear in the crack above you levering the entire mountain apart. That rock it totally unstable. GET DOWN NOW MAN!
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:29am PT
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YUR
GuNNA
DIE!!!!!1111!!!!11!!11!1
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:34am PT
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BTW look down and to the left. I am the guy bivied on P2 of after 6.
Friend me on Facebook and we'll chat! Okay?
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:34am PT
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I'm pretty sure it REQUIRES a cam right there. Have you got a Blue Camalot?
Plus I hear there is some rain coming!!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:47am PT
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Wish I could help....it's been sooooo long. I do remember bitd that there was a great flat spot at the top for sex. Bet that doesn't get used for that anymore.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:49am PT
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LOL!
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Gene
climber
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:55am PT
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Skinnie,
If you must bail, leave all three of your haulbags up there. Some monkey will get them for you later for a modest fee and you will be helping the local economy.
Sending vibes your way. It's gotta be tough and lonely up there. You are not alone!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 25, 2013 - 09:58am PT
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Someone call that klaus guy..He spends too much time on the computer. Not sure if he climbs much but some other keyboard jockies said he might know something.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 25, 2013 - 11:15am PT
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if you move about 100' up and east, over towards the topout of After 5 you will find almost no traffic to interrupt your more private activities...
as for that nut placement, Chicken... everyone knows you shouldn't use nuts anymore... you need to find a cam on your rack that will fit the specific fissures at your location. In fact, fling your nuts to the ground... no need to be distracted by those anachronisms...
your rack, if it is at all like those people haul up Nutcracker should contain a set of every available manufacturer's line of cams (unless you are like Jaybro, who has cams on his rack that were never manufactured)... my guess is that you should start fitting cams into the cracks immediately, and once you have built a mighty anchor, with redundancy, and free from fear of non-equalization, attempt to move to the next placement opportunity...
good luck!
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Jun 25, 2013 - 11:17am PT
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I thought that spindly tree had fallen out!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jun 25, 2013 - 11:25am PT
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shhhhhh.... he's off route.... we need Captain Tom to go out there and shoot a bunch of high resolution images so we can figure out how the route has changed and just where the Chicken is bivied...
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 25, 2013 - 11:37am PT
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Are you sure you are on the correct side of the Valley Ken? Remember what Mason Williams said:
"Momma Had a Chicken, She Thought it Was a Duck"
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jun 25, 2013 - 11:52am PT
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Sorry this is your own dang fault.
You should have brought full live stream video equipment like any sane person would.
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Gene
climber
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Jun 25, 2013 - 12:01pm PT
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The GoPro footage is gonna be awesome. If he gets down OK.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jun 25, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
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C'mon man.
Grow a SACK!
crawl into your bat tent, refresh yourself with brandy, drill a bolt ladder.
It's all good.
I hope you brought aiders for the crux corner!
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micronut
Trad climber
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Jun 25, 2013 - 01:35pm PT
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That crack right there where you are fits a nice Chouinard bong. Whack in a bong, backed up by a lost arrow stack in the 2" pod above and relax. That crack just begs for iron.
Somebody needs to send Chris Googlimoogly up there to rap in and save the day.
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