PTPP is lost alone on ElCap

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Thelonius Fan

climber
Pittsburgh
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 23, 2013 - 06:06pm PT
Pete is on the Waterfall Route, bivied at the 4th pitch but unable to find the 5th anchor bolt. He is *off-route* and needs help asap. He went left on Saturday 40' but returned to the bivy on 4 last night. Today (Sunday) he went up to the big ledge directly above but cannot find natural anchorage and only one rusty, unsafe bolt. If Erik Erickson (sorry on my spelling!), Tom Evans, Kennan or Alik Berg find this and can help, his radio is Channel 2 Sub 10. You can contact him on one of two cell phones ... Thank you!
rincon

Trad climber
SoCal
Jun 23, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
"He is *off-route* and needs help asap."

Hilarious!


Pete is on the Waterfall Route, bivied at the 4th pitch but unable to find the 5th anchor bolt. He is *off-route* and needs help asap. He went left on Saturday 40' but returned to the bivy on 4 last night. Today (Sunday) he went up to the big ledge directly above but cannot find natural anchorage and only one rusty, unsafe bolt. If Erik Erickson (sorry on my spelling!), Tom Evans, Kennan or Alik Berg find this and can help, his radio is Channel 2 Sub 10. You can contact him on one of two cell phones: 905-nine zero three - nine four six 3 or 559-seven seven nine - 08 three three. Thank you!
Thelonius Fan

climber
Pittsburgh
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2013 - 06:44pm PT
Pete wonders if the route has fallen off. He thinks when Ammon and Kait were on Bad Seed there was a big rock fall in the area. Did this destroy the route? Please confirm, Alik, if you climbed it *before* Ammon and Kait did Bad Seed. If you climbed it after, then he is very confused.

He is fixed to a big ledge - you can see his ropes leading up to this ledge. He cannot find the new bolt, Alik.

The route says his should be to the left of his piglet but there are no bolts there. The ledge to the left of his piglet has nothing.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jun 23, 2013 - 06:49pm PT
I thought PTPP only got worried when he couldn't find his corkscrew?
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills, CA
Jun 23, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
Tell him to to keep going up.
What is will be.
Thelonius Fan

climber
Pittsburgh
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2013 - 07:12pm PT
Just texted your msg to Pete - phone is off now but he will get it. Thank you!
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Jun 23, 2013 - 07:27pm PT
GTFO PETE!!!!!111
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Jun 23, 2013 - 07:39pm PT
The topo shows straight up and there is a corner that goes straight up right above him... I would think that after 49 ElCap routes a guy could see the line. The rockfall didn't alter that route. The rain thing is a different deal. Leave the kit and fix ropes to the deck and come back later.

LATER... I HAVE EXAMINED THE SHOTS I TOOK TODAY OF PETE AND THE ROUTE ABOVE. THE AREA ABOVE HIM SHOWS MUCH FRESH SCARRING... HE NEEDS TO GET OFF THE ROUTE IMMEDIATELY AND FORGET ABOUT GOING BACK. 6:26PM SUNDAY.
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
Jun 23, 2013 - 08:37pm PT
Jeebus, he's an AID climber--he doesn't step out of etriers and carries a hammer...


...pretty soft if he stuck in a jam and can't find/climb his way out!!!!1111
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 23, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
What would Warren do?
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 23, 2013 - 08:46pm PT
Yep ;-)
thekidcormier

Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
Jun 23, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
He's gonna die for sure.

I guess I'll donate the beer I owe him to the elcap report.
msiddens

Trad climber
Jun 23, 2013 - 09:25pm PT
Drill baby, drill
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
Jun 23, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
SEE MY POST ABOVE. HE NEEDS TO GET OUT OF THERE PRONTO.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 23, 2013 - 09:58pm PT
Harborwear dude. Full slicks.

I would put a jockstrap on for the barrage.
Thelonius Fan

climber
Pittsburgh
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2013 - 09:58pm PT
Thank you!!! He is on the way down now.
rwedgee

Ice climber
canyon country,CA
Jun 23, 2013 - 10:21pm PT
Doesn't NOAA say Oregon & Nor Cal getting hit ??
Shows less than 1/4 & 1/10th inch for El Cap
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=37.73722494642339&lon=-119.6367359161377

That's on top....not the side
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jun 23, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
What part of WATERFALL route did you miss?

lol
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Jun 23, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
You haven't climbed El Cap until you are on lead checking your iPhone for beta posted to you via Facebook.
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
Jun 23, 2013 - 10:46pm PT
Being completely ignorant, even *I* would check the forecast were I casting off onto something named the waterfall route.
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